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AndyPandy

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by AndyPandy

  1. i meant to ask also, can the disco linkage for the transfer box come from a manual gearbox even though its going onto an auto ? cheers, andy
  2. Hi bowie69, Thanks very much for that, i'm going to get all the bits together and try and do the swap in one go. The halfshafts are ok . I was limping home in rear drive after blowing the front diff, then lost drive to the rear.I could hear a highspeed metallic noise in the gearbox area.After fitting a new front diff, it drives ok , but stuggles off road. I tried spinning the wheels up on ice and sometimes the rear axle would spin and sometimes the front.If i held the brakes on then gassed it , sometimes all 4 wheels would spin, but most of the time not su i assume the coupling is shot, i'm not sure.I'd prefer the lt230 anyway. Thanks again, andy
  3. bowie69, I've been reading your posts on this conversion with interest as i want to do the same on my 94 classic.I seem to have lost the locking up of the viscous coupling and would like to bin the borg warner for an lt230. If i get a 1.4 ratio also it would help my gearing in high box for the 35" tyres i've got. Mine is an auto and if i get the lt230 from a defender , what input shaft will i need ? And does it simply pull out of the rear of the autobox? Also,can i use any discovery linkage or does it have to be from an auto.If so can a diesel auto linkage be used or must it be a v8 one ? Lastly, you say that a different length prop must be used on the front. And it looks like your using a diesel one,aren't the v8 ones solid,therefore smaller diameter so won't the diesel type one hit the front gearbox crossmember ? I've been scratching my head with this lot so your help would be great.My rangie is a bit poor with an open centre diff in this snowy weather ! cheers, andy
  4. I'd like a set of these.Are they for sale yet ? I don't think i need the ctis but its a good idea.
  5. Thanks for your reply.I thought it'll need reconditioning,its just that when the engine and box are cold it goes into 3rd gear no problem.I was wondering ,is there anything that can be adjusted or is it just buggered.
  6. Hi all, I've recently had problems getting my 110 defender into 3rd gear, and its getting worse. Its a 1990 2.5NAD 110.I have changed the oil a few months ago when it was working fine.I replaced it with ATF (hope that was the right oil ! ). Just a few days ago i noticed it wouldn't go into third sometimes,but with a good shove it would.Now it won't at all unless you rev it ( like when you change gear without a clutch). Also its been cluncking a bit when taking up drive but i assumed this was play in the transfer box. Any ideas please guys. Is it maybe the syncromesh for 3rd gear ? thanks andy P.s, i did try a search first but couldn't find anything the same.
  7. Hi guys and thanks for the replys. I thought at first maybe the shaft was 180 degrees out but it turned out to be more simple than that. I double checked the difflock was engaging by jacking a wheel up and spinning it.It turns out that the difflock hadn't engaged as i thought it had because once i span the wheel and put it into difflock it suddenly engaged,and something moved inside the switch hole.I then re set the switch height and it worked perfectly. So basically, i had set the switch but although i was moving the lever left and right it hadn't engaged the lock as i thought.The reason i thought it had gone in was the shaft below the switch in the casing was moving.Once the lever is moved the shaft inside moves,but a wheel needs spinning and something else moves over the shaft inside the casing. So if anyone ever has this problem,make sure its properly in diff lock before trying to set the switch height. thanks, andy
  8. Hi guys, I've re built a 110 ex army defender.It came with no gearbox.I have fitted a gearbox and transfer box from a defender 90. The problem is, when in difflock (lever over to the left ) the difflock light goes out.And when out of diff lock it comes on !! I've had the switch out and it works as it should, when pushed in on the end it connects the 2 terminals and grounds the bulb. When i stuck a allen key in the hole, the dimple is there when in diff lock meaning it won't push the switch.And when pushed back out of diff lock no hole , ie it pushes the switch on. Whats wrong ? I've checked the workshop manual and it says that pushing the lever to the right will engage difflock,which would make my light right, appart from the difflock engages when you push the lever to the left ! God knows whats wrong here.
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