Jump to content

Sharp

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    229
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

40 Excellent

About Sharp

Profile Information

  • Location
    Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

806 profile views
  1. I believe www.turnerengineering.co.uk sell them.
  2. Great information and interesting reading from Drumstick. I opted for a 300tdi about 8 years ago. I drove some TD5's and prefer that engine and dash, however a couple I looked at had engine issues and the additional complexity put me off. Both engines have their quirks and weak points. I've been happy with the 300, it's really easy to work on, parts are cheap and it seems pretty indestructible (fingers crossed). I wish I had waited and saved up an extra few thousand and bought a vehicle whose body and chassis were in better condition. Despite trying to educate myself, I didn't really know what I was looking at and my enthusiasm for crawling around in the gutter holding a welder didn't last as long as I had hoped! For the amount I have spent over the years, I could probably have bought two vehicles by now - however I have also learned a lot and had endless excuses for buying shiny tools!
  3. Thanks all, I have ordered the polybush kit and some new bolts
  4. I have some lovely wheel wobbly and think it's the panhard rod. The tracking was badly out but is now sorted, wheel bearings all around, all radius arm bushes, damper, track rod ends and drag link ball joints are all recent. The only other thing on the list is the preload on the swivels and the steering box but there is definitely movement in the panhard rod so that's next on the list. When i wiggle the chassis side of the panhard rod the bolt rattles in the bush, in other words the inner collar of the bush doesn't have movement against the rubber, but the bolt has movement against the inner collar of the bush in all directions as if the bolt is too narrow for the fitting. Is this normal and just needs tightening up or is the bolt meant to be snug in the bush? I presume the latter and I need a new bush, but can't quite work out how it would end up becoming loose like that.
  5. Cheers everyone, I found a bearmach one on ebay for £35 which looks good quality from the pictures
  6. I'm going to shortly replace my crankshaft pulley, it is the later lipped type. On the turner engineering website they have what looks to be a better quality one at £77 (https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/lhh100660-crankshaft-gear-c2x20634594), compared to the aftermarket ones which are about £25. Has anyone had any issues with the aftermarket types like this - https://www.paddockspares.com/lhh100660-crankshaft-pulley-300tdi.html
  7. I think the most likely scenario is I missed the blown fuse, but I was sure when I initially checked them they were all ok! Either that or it was two separate issues...however my money is on my own stupidity!
  8. I have the same problem. Replaced the bonnet switch, tested the door switches and then put a piece of duct tape over the red light on the dash and added it to the "pending" list!
  9. Turned out to be one of the new light units shorting it's connections when a bulb was fitted, at least that's my guess. When the bulb was twisted in, it looked like it was catching on the positive connection and shorted out against the negative. When I bent the connection back down it stopped blowing fuses.
  10. I'm a little pushed for time so I've just ordered a new switch. I think all the dash lights that come on when the stalk switch is on are not working, so the blue full beam light and the indicator light comes on, but none of the illumination bulbs nor the green warning lamp come on.
  11. Thanks peaklander, I'll order up another switch. I didn't notice before, but the instrument panel isn't lit up either so sounds like you're right with the stalk being the fault?
  12. I knew that one of my front side lights had not been working, a new bulb hadn't fixed it so had ordered a new assembly to replace it as it was badly corroded. Put it on (both sides) and it lit up but noticed the other one was also out. Turned the lights off, put a new bulb in that side and now all four lights aren't working. I'm getting 6-7 volts at the front (both sides) and nothing on the rear side lights or the registration light. I didn't check these before starting, but assume they weren't all out. I think the fuses are 11-14 but checked every fuse and don't have any blown, fuses all feel tight and the terminals are clean. The rear brake lights are working and the headlights are working normally. I believe I have the correct bulbs and have tried a few (R5W). Can anyone point me in the direction of what to check next? (1998 300tdi 110)
  13. Thanks for that. "Rotate cam if necessary till mark lines up." - that was the bit that was a surprise to me, as in manual and all the resources I've read and videos I've watched I hadn't seen it mentioned that the cam needed to be adjusted during a timing belt change. When I've done belts on other vehicles, once everything has been locked up nothing has needed to be adjusted as part of the precedure. I had thought that once the flywheel and pump were locked, the marks on the cam should line up and everything should be kept in place until the new belt was fitted and tensioned up. Every day is a learning day! It does sound like it's probably worth checking the crank gear before I adjust anything though.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy