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  1. Sharp

    Fuel starvation causing fuel leak

    I'm pretty sure I'm tapped into the right line but there will be no harm in double checking, I've been known to make sillier errors! In a perfect world I wouldn't be stopping the fuel but then again in a perfect world I'd leave my car unlocked. The trouble with off the shelf solutions is a few minutes on google will give you all the info you need to bypass them. My fuel return pipes are quite worn so I've ordered some up, perhaps they're just too old and brittle to handle the back pressure.
  2. I'm having some issues with the fuel system on my 300tdi 110 and was hoping someone could enlighten me. This isn't a fault as such just me tinkering and wondering what's happening. While the engine is running if I mechanically stop the fuel from getting to the lift pump then fuel starts squirting out of the area of the rear fuel return pipe before the engine shuts down, I can't really see if it's coming from the fuel return pipe directly but around the area of the one closest to the bulkhead and around the oil cooler. Fuel starts coming out pretty much instantly and then I just allowed the fuel to come through normally again which stopped the leak. Obviously this isn't something that needs to work on a regular basis but reading between the lines I wondered if anyone could advise whether there is something I can do to stop this happening or whether it's a problem or not i.e. will it just tiddle a bit of fuel and then stop or will it cover the engine bay in a dangerous amount of fuel. Thanks in advance poirot
  3. Sharp

    Leak into footwell

    I had a new windscreen in after hitting a pheasant and having watched him do it I would probably do it myself next time. He charged £75 but it was just a 5 minute job and if you do it yourself you can give the surface a proper clean up and repaint where as if you get someone else to do it they'll probably just slap it back in like they did with mine which might mean your problem still persists.
  4. Sharp

    Leak into footwell

    I've been chasing leaks since I got mine, it doesn't leak from normal rain if it's parked on the flat but it came in for the first time in a few weeks the other day when the rain was very heavy and my foot got a dripping. You have to hand it to LR it doesn't matter where the water comes in, it always seems to drip off the check strap directly onto where your foot sits on the accellarator. Sometimes I'll park it on a slope or the wind will be in just the right direction to push it in somehow and it's back to the drawing board. It's really frustrating. I went at it the other way round to what's been suggested in the end, although I did try to find the source with a hose at first. The hose suggested it was the vents or the window hinges so I made some new vent seals and sealed the hinges up but it still came in. In the end I bought a tube of sealant and pretty much sealed everything in the water ingress manual and then some other places that looked like it might be worth it. Took about half a day. Next plan is going around the front door seals, replacing the taped/dumdumed corners and trying to crimp it on a bit tighter. I saw a video of someone extending the bonnet gutter so the run off went out across the wing instead of trickling down the bulk head so I'll try that as well. If you have access to a smoke machine you can trace leaks by having the blowers on instide then with all the doors shut move the smoke machine nozzle around the outside, if you see the smoke disturbed by air pushing it away from the landy then you've found your leak.
  5. Sharp

    Bolt size for 2nd row seat seatbelts

    Thanks all, if it's 7/16th I should be able to pick something up on Monday. Cheers for the generous offer western, hopefully I should be able to get hold of one locally but the offer is apreciated.
  6. I'm struggling to find the right bolt size for the 2nd row seat belt mounts on a 1998 110 csw. Unfortunately I snapped the head off one of the bolts when I was trying to remove them. Chopped the plate off and managed to get the stump of bolt out and reweld the plate back on but I can't find the right size of bolt to replace it. It's pitch is 1.25 and it's just shy of 11mm wide. I ran a M10 1.25 tap through it and it was loose going in, but an m12 is too big. Do M11 bolts exist, or is it an imperial fitting?
  7. Sharp

    Defender 110 - C-pillar

    Good luck. Would be interested to know how you get on with the dumb irons, somehow mine got through the last MOT without any mention of them but I'll have to get them tidied up a bit before the winter.
  8. I ordered a bearmach one this morning and it looked like it had metal sections at either end
  9. Thanks for everyone's replies, there's loads to go on there. Exhaust manifold gasket, cyclone breather, rocker cover gasket, fuel return lines, oil breather pipe and the dipstick. I've got a week off next week with the intention of stripping the inside out, sealing a few leaks and insulating so will hopefully have a bit of time to clean the engine bay up and see how it goes from there. I'll try the o-ring for the cyclone breather and hopefully that at least stems the flow to something a bit more reasonable! Thanks
  10. Sharp

    Defender 110 - C-pillar

    I did this last year on a 1998 110 CSW and getting at the spot welds was a nightmare. At the time I remember thinking I wish I'd done it like reb suggests and cut and welded below the join but it probably looks better with the whole piece in now that I've done it that way. I never thought about taking the rest of the panel off but that would certainly make it easier. I bought some spot weld drill bits, in hindsight I wish I'd got the ones that look like a mini hole cutter as I suspect these would work better at an angle than the ones I got. A dremel with a flexble extension and a pack of cutting discs came in handy, I ended up chopping some of the tabs mostly off and welding to the stump that was left. Even if you take the panel off the ones at the back (i.e. facing diagonally down towards the ground) will be difficult to get access to unless you chop an access hole to get to it. I had a lot of trouble lining the panels up, i think I riveted the two sections together to mark up and then split them again to reassemble and it still ended up being off so I ground the edge down flush and redrilled the holes: This was mine all finished, unfortunately I ended up stripping all the paint off because it was such a bad match and I've never found anything to repaint it with again. Damn metallics
  11. I'm finally going to tackle the oil leaks which are making a mess of the engine bay and wondered if anyone had any advice on where to start or some common culprits. 1998 300tdi 110 CSW. Few pictures... P.S. for the smart Alecs, the oil caps off to remove the cover!
  12. Sharp

    300tdi engine oil or dip stick issue

    Thanks for your replies, can't see anything obviously loose with the dipstick and it's still reading low. I think I'll just mistrust it for now and leave it knowing the correct amount is in. It's quite a leaky engine, I wonder if it's suffered from being over filled in the past.
  13. I understand that the oil capacity for my 300tdi is 6.65ltrs (5.8 ltrs for the engine and 0.85 ltrs for the filter). After changing my oil I've got just under 3 ltrs left out of 2x 5ltr bottles and my dipstick is reading just below the low level. Any ideas why that might be? Not sure whether to mistrust the dipstick or keep topping it up till it reaches the correct level. It's a 1998 110.
  14. Sharp

    Something whirring after engine off

    Thanks for your replies. Haven't had any problems since but it sounds like I'm going to need a new starter at some point.
  15. Had an issue yesterday evening and wondered if anyone had any idea what it was. I'd driven back from work and she'd been sitting for about an hour when I got in to start it again. Noticed an electrical whining noise as the engine was running but thought it was someone strimming, also the temp gauge was about at about a third even as I just started her up. Drove for a few minutes and realised the noise was following me so pulled in and stopped the engine, noise kept going. Under the bonnet the noise was coming from the turbo area and there was some smoke coming from there, the engine felt overly hot and she's a bit oily up top so that could be the source of the smoke. Tried turning the key and got nothing at all, disconnected the battery then reconnected it and all now appears fine. Anyone know what it could be? 300tdi 1998 110csw. https://youtu.be/K8qVTufOGBI

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