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  1. Thanks for the comments. I was initially looking for a van but after driving around the country looking at too many inaccurately described landrovers I ended up going for the best of them and I didn't come across any decent van backs. Well I came across one lovely red one but they wanted £9.5k for it and it had serious engine problems, madness. I've already poured quite a lot of work into this one as well and the thought of having to go through the process of buying and selling again would be painful!
  2. Not sure if you have a specific need for a LR one or not but the mercedes sprinter bottle jacks work well. There's one on ebay just now for £20, someone who obviously hasn't checked to see how much they're worth before listing as I think I paid a bit more for mine!
  3. Out of the leatherman's I would second Ed's vote for the skeletool, it has everything you need and it's a nice size. I used to work in a shop that sold leatheman's and the warranty is pretty quibble free. We had a customer bring their third skeletool back with a broken blade and they replaced them all. (It was quite obvious the blade had been used to pry something open.) Personally I usually carry small cheap pocket tools at work like the one below. It's no good if it's not in your pocket and the plier type tools are just a little bit big for me. I had a nice little knife a while back which was tiny but the blade was quite thick so it could be ground it into the shape of a screwdriver. The leatherman squirt ps4 is nice but it's too expensive to lose.
  4. I have a 1998 County 110 with about 160k on the clock and I've been putting a small camper conversion in the back. It was relatively untouched and everything was as stock when I got it so I've not made any major modifications and made sure anything I've added is reversible. Just wondering what people's thoughts are on how much value is kept by keeping everything orginal, for example the headlining board is in good condition but the fabric could probably do with replacing or cleaning but I'm considering taking it out completely and just carpet lining over the insulation I put in which would give me a couple of inches extra headroom in the back. I've also considered painting all the grey plastic a darker colour just for personal preference but I know that's not everyone's taste. I've still got all the rear seats and seat belt mounts and I'd thought when it comes time to sell her it would be good to have everything but I'm quite short on storage space. I was thinking if I sold the headlining boards and seat belt mounts (not sure how much either of these are worth?) then it would probably fund a bit of carpet and paint to finish sprucing up the inside. Not a particularly succinct quesion but I'd be interested to hear what people's thought's are on whether trying to keep all the original parts and colours is worth it or whether I'm unneccessarily inconveniencing myself. We're planning on moving house in the not too distant future and I'll probably end up selling it in a couple of years.
  5. There are plenty defenders advertised for those kind of £10-20k figures but I'm not sure how many actually move at that price. If that area of the bulkhead by the door hinges is rusty and the chassis is gone then a new chassis, bulkhead patching and new running gear might not bring it up to that value unless it's otherwise desirable. Do you trust your garage and their experience with defenders, do you want to sell it and make money or is it a keeper you're attached to? If the former then it sounds like a risk and your margins are going to be tight unless you're doing some of the work yourself. There are nice defenders out there for the £10k mark which would be your £3.5k sale price and £7k repair bill. Is £3.5k the amount they're offering you or the amount they think you'll get selling privately? If you spent £6k on it you might get more than £3.5k as a project, people are paying silly money for rotten defenders these days. I think there's a buzzweld centre near to you, they seem to be quite well regarded and might be able to offer you a second opinion.
  6. Britannica restorations has a few youtube videos on door seals which are worth watching.
  7. Sharp

    Roof Leaking?

    I ended up going quite heavy handed with the sealant about 6 months ago and I've been leak free since then, made a bit of a mess but I'm dry. It used to get me on the first corners of the day so I presume some of the water was coming in through the roof but the worst culprets for me were the windscreen seal, door seal and windscreen hinges/brackets. I was quite bought into captain tollys judging by the reviews but it didn't work for me, I think the gaps must have been too big for it to seal! It ended up peeling off like long strips of pva glue. I used different brands of polyrethane sealant (sikaflex, tiger seal etc.) and didn't really notice any difference between them. I ran a stiff nylon brush with some white spirit along all the seams on the roof and then filled in with tiger seal and smoothed off. It didn't look too bad and it wasn't raised up at all. I did around the outside edge of the sunroof seal as well and plastered vaseline around the where the glass meets the seal (I read somewhere of someone putting edge trim around the edge of the glass and that's on the list but it takes heavy directional rain to drip in now) My gutters were noticably cracked, these got sealed all the way along There's also the same stuff along the top of the windscreen Not sure if that leaks as badly but it got the same treatment
  8. I haven't done mine yet but I've got the fxliner kit from buzzweld - http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/fxliner-1k-crossmember-bumper-refurbishing-kit.html. The crossmember on mine is about 3 or 4 years old, it had been left with the original paint and I gave it a coating of dinitrol while I was doing the chassis just over a year ago. Probably an element of user error and I didn't put it on thick enough but it started rusting around the edges pretty quickly and is covered in surface rust now.
  9. Slightly odd question but I wondered if there is anyone here who has some knowledge of upholstery/foam. I've bought foam online a few times before for camper beds and despite being sold as dense or firm I've always had to buy about 4 or 5 inches to get anything that's ok to sleep on. I've just built a small bed in the back of the 110 and I noticed that the original bench seat cushions are only a couple of inches thick but are really firm and comfortable. Does anyone know where I might be able to get larger sections of this type of foam. I'm restricted for height and something of that thickness would be ideal. As I say, I have googled plenty and bought foam from various places before but almost all foam seems to be sold as high density/ultra firm but never actually seems to be.
  10. I did mine recently and just welded a large patch in as I had the steel lying around. It's a good time to have a good bash around your outriggers while you have access.
  11. I'm most likely going to be selling the landy at the end of the summer so I'd like to keep all the stuff to be able to put it back to stock. I'll let you know if I decide to sell them, they don't look to be that many about.
  12. The seats are long gone but the big tubular support inside was in the way of a cabinet I'm building so I wanted to remove it for more room. It looked like this: There is another support under the tub which attaches to the above pictured support on the bottom left underneath and runs down to the crossmember. I've taken it off as well now but I was just wondering if that was part of the seat belt mounting or whether it was another support for the tub that needs to stay in place.
  13. I'm taking the tubular seat belt mounts out of the back of a 1998 110 csw. There is a secondary tubular bracket that goes under the tub and connects onto the rear crossmember. From what I can see online this is sold as part of the inward facing seatbelt mount kit so I presume this can be removed. Does anyone know if it need to be put back for support? It's this bit:
  14. Thanks for the suggestions, had a chance to look at it yesterday and it just turned out to be the fuse for the controller. I must have touched the wires together and blown it while I was swapping over.
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