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About Sharp

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  1. Sharp

    Webasto controller issues

    Thanks for the suggestions, had a chance to look at it yesterday and it just turned out to be the fuse for the controller. I must have touched the wires together and blown it while I was swapping over.
  2. Sharp

    MOT testing hammer

    South West, not quite sure where to go next. It's really difficult finding a garage you get on with, I hate dodgy MOT's and I'm not looking for anyone to do me any favours or cut corners but a little bit of common sense is apreciated. I took the subaru to an MOT testing centre last year that only does MOT's and no repair work, came back with a list of advisories the length of my arm, the most innane of which was some slight discolouration along the top of my front number plate (-Front registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread). Despite the high cost of repair work this garage didn't put that on the certificate and that meant the whole thing (including their retest fee!) was less than £100 and I have a nice clean MOT certificate. They also didn't fail the landy on the egr being blanked which from chatting to others is something which a lot of testers aren't pulling people up for - but you don't know until you've put it in. I think a strict MOT tester could go to town on most landys if they felt the need to. So I guess it's time to take a punt somewhere else and hope they dont' slap a dangerous fail on and present me with a massive bill that I can't drive it away to fix myself.
  3. Sharp

    MOT testing hammer

    To be fair to them they may have been quoting me for genuine subaru parts, which knowing subaru could well have been double. I've never been to a dealership before but I imagine they are just charging the same sort of prices as a dealer would, in other words it's just not a place for old rusty bangers any more.
  4. Sharp

    MOT testing hammer

    It was for a 2005 subaru outback, i didn't get an itemised quote so I don't know how they worked out the bill. The parts cost me just shy of £60 from a local independent parts shop and took a couple of hours including polishing the head light. I'm not a mechanic so I don't know what kind of time gets specified for these kinds of jobs but I can't see how it would have taken them that long with a lift and workshop tools.
  5. Sharp

    MOT testing hammer

    I've since stopped going to that garage anyway. They used to be good but they've gone all high tech and charging dealership prices now but the workmanship doesn't match the prices. I think they've had enough of old cars anyway! They quoted my partner £420 last week for a ball joint, two drop links, 4 bulbs and a headlight polish. I did question it and the receptionist told me that was actually quite cheap!
  6. Sharp

    Webasto controller issues

    No, I only shortened it by a couple of feet. I got the heater from someone on ebay and the loom was all nicely wired up with quite a long set of wires to the controller. I went back a couple of feet and reterminated the 4 wires there so haven't touched any other part of the loom. Foolishly I didn't even tunr it on to test it after I'd finished, just assuming I hadn't really changed anything so it would work as it had been doing!
  7. The bolts that came with the new kit were all oval shaped, I'm not sure if they're meant to be like this but I put the old ones back on anyway: I cleaned the inlet out with petrol and then washed it out with water and left it to dry off with a hair dryer pointed down it till it was dried and didn't smell of petrol anymore There was a film of something on the new gasket, I'm not sure if this should have been scrubbed off but I left it on All cleaned up and reassembling I took the cyclone breather out and cleaned it up with petrol along with the pipes that were on it. I replaced the oil breather down pipe as well I had bought a new rocker cover gasket and washers but I thought I'd run it a while before fitting it. The old one was nicely seated in and if it wasn't leaking from there I didn't want to disturb it too much. As it turned out it's not leaked from there so I'm glad I didn't mess around too much. I thought I had ordered a new O ring for the cyclone breather but I can't see that I've ordered it. I think I used one from an assorted box of orings and if i remember correctly it was a little thicker and made the breather a bit harder to put back on but it seems to have sealed it. The parts were these: exhaust manifold kit - ERR3785 breather pipe - the code on my order was LLH500170, I think the correct code is ERR3084 rocker cover gasket that i didn't fit - ERR2409 This is the box of o-rings I replaced the cyclone breather o-ring with, probably from amazon or ebay. I have a few different assorted boxes, although more often than not you find you have every size apart from the one you need!
  8. Just an update on this in case it helps anyone, it's pretty much been a success and 5 months on the engines still looking pretty clean although I still have a very slight weep from the exhaust manifold gasket. This was the old one: It was quite an easy job and I followed the instructions from this - https://youtu.be/kB5onEGqm7c. It was quite a mess and I spent a lot of time cleaning out the holes and cleaning up the surface with a stanley knife blade, brake cleaner and scotch brite. I forgot to resize my images and even though I've deleted the big files it's not letting me upload anymore so I'll post the rest again.
  9. Having some issues with my webasto thermo top c after shortening the cables to the controller and I was hoping someone might be able to help me figure out what's wrong. This is a picture of the controller before I shortened the wire: I disconected the battery, chopped the cable and crimped new terminals on. I don't really have any reason to doubt the connections aren't sound, it's the correct crimping tool for the terminals and the right size terminals for the wire. I can see the wire in contact with the metal and the wires are all solidly crimped in place. Not sure if there's anything else I should be concerned about with the connections I've made? They were a little stiffer to push onto the male spade terminals than the original blue ones but at the time I didn't think I was using a level of force which would have caused any damage. During normal operation, when put into the on position the red light on the controller goes on. I'm not sure if this is something that happens as a result of the heater giving feedback to the controller that it is working or whether the light comes on whenever the controller is in the on position? The red light is not coming on now when I switch it to the on position. This is a picture of the front of the controller. I have run through the webasto reset proceedure, I can't remember off the top of my head what it is but I followed the instructions which are something along the lines of remove the main fuse, wait ten seconds, turn on etc. This hasn't had any effect. Does anyone have any suggestions? My initial thoughts were my connections were bad, I've damaged the controller somehow or I have somehow put the unit into lock down. If anyone has one of these controllers or knows how they work I would be grateful to know whether the red light comes on regardless of whether it is connected to a working machine. If it does then that would point to the controller having been damaged. I assume there is a way of connecting the wires together to make the heater work without the controller but my aimless effort touching the terminals together was fruitless. I'd be grateful of any suggestions as to what I can do to see what the problem is. Thankfully it's been T-Shirt weather today but I'd like to get it working again before the winter is out.
  10. Sharp

    MOT testing hammer

    I feel a bit silly now but looking again I think it's probably from the lift!
  11. Sharp

    MOT testing hammer

    Just a quick question for the MOT gurus on here. Is it acceptable for an MOT tester to use a hammer other than the small MOT hammer that's made for testing corrosion. I'm only asking out of curiosity as after my last MOT there were about half a dozen imprints of a hammer head quite a bit bigger than that on the bottom of the chassis rails, all in one place on each side. It's quite solid where he chose to hit so nothing went through but it looked like he'd let out a fair bit of anger on it.
  12. Sharp

    Home made reciprocating file

    No way, I was thinking about this the other day while I was filing a partiularly bad stone nick out of a pretty new chainsaw chain while the reciprocating air saw sat on the bench. Looks like it worked a treat.
  13. Sharp

    Body work corrison / paint flake

    I can't quite see the pictures very well on my screen but galvanic corrosion is going to happen where dissimilar metals meet and it tends to bubble up underneath. That's not to say someone hasn't sanded it down but with it's location it doesn't look like it. It's a common non metalic colour and quite accessible, the sill will come off easily and once you've taken the arch off you should be able to clean it up, etch prime it and touch it up to a decent standard. It's worth checking whether the MOT's were all done at the same place, if there's no advisories on a land rover then it's because someone hasn't picked them up not because they don't exist 😛 Pick up backs are quite hard to come by that haven't been ragged around a farm all their life but I can't help you with the value sorry.
  14. Sharp

    mpg for 300tdi 110csw

    Oops, thanks for checking my calculations! By the sounds of it 27mpg is pretty typical
  15. Sharp

    mpg for 300tdi 110csw

    Cheers for everyone's replies. It's subjective but I think I tend to drive pretty gently and economically. The engines pre-heated in the winter as well, from a seperate fuel tank. Most of my daily journey is on roads where it's easy enough to keep at 40-50mph without dropping too much speed for corners and such like, need to stop for half a dozen junctions and two short 30mph zones. Tyres are about 35 front 40 rear if i recall correctly, general grabber AT2's 235/85 on 16s

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