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  1. Thanks for the help. Sigi_H I haven't removed those, I'd thought they were just holding the top of the windscreen frame to the roof but I'll take them out and see if that helps. It's raining today so plenty time to crawl around inside and take all the bolts out and then hopefully I'll get it up without damaging or bending anything.
  2. Looking for a bit of advice on lifting my roof a little to gain access to the top of the bulkhead (1998 110 county). I have taken out 8 bolts along the inside gutter (on each side) and only really getting about half an inch of space between the windscreen and bulkhead. I have been quite tentative lifting it though and not put much force into it. Do I need to remove the rest of the roof bolts or does it need quite a shove to get it up further? I have trim along the back which is not impossible to remove but it means removing a cabinet from the back which I'd rather not do. Would it be easier to
  3. Well that diagram is making a little more sense to me than it used to so thanks again! I'm not sure when I'm going to have a chance to look at it again and I've had issues putting the dash back* so this might end up sitting on the back burner for a while depending on work. When you say buzz the cables do you mean checking the resistance of each wire? So clip one lead to the wire coming out of the solenoid and touch each wire on the immobilser until I get a reading greater than infinity? *steering wheel seems to be binding slightly on the plastic box behind it which resulted in the permanent
  4. Held up with work and the weather for a couple of days. Much simpler solution, thanks. What fuse would be appropriate? The white cable dissapears into the rest of the wiring loom and I can't really see where it goes without separating it. I've got it partially reassembled just now so I can get to work next week but will hopefully have a chance to finish the rest of the welding and tidy it up in a week or so. I take it that if original then should the white wire end up at the black box under the cubby?
  5. Thanks for such a comprehensive reply, I think it's making sense to me now. I have the black immobiliser box, although it is under the central cubby. I think long term I'll get rid of both and fit something aftermarket. I already have my own security on the vehicle and I imagine anyone trying to steal it wouldn't be held up less by the stock system than by something unfamiliar. Would terminating the red wire at a new relay on the bulkhead and running a beefier wire from that to the starter be an acceptable solution to the fire risk? It looks like they have only run the red wire to th
  6. Thanks for your help, the label in the fuse box cover has the left relay labelled as start but looking at the wires on the back it looks like the right hand one: It has the white and red tracer, a thick brown and a thick brown and red cable. The thinner black one has an orange tracer and I can see that coloured wire coming out of the green imobiliser box so I think that looks to be the wire you're talking about. To test it do i reinstate the ignition wiring and then check the resistance by poking one end of the probe in the back of the relay and the other against a ground
  7. Thanks for that Eightpot, I think I will have to reread that a few times but it's starting to make a little more sense. So the red wire is probably someone's fix when there were issues with the red/white circuit of some sort.
  8. Peaklander, I saw what you originally wrote and it seems to have worked! I removed the red/white wire from the ignition and replaced it with the thick red one and boom, it started up! So I guess someone has bipassed the imobiliser and when I was taking it apart I have just messed up with labelling the wires. Thank you so much for everyone's help, I will have to try and tidy things up at some point but I'm just glad to hear it fire up for now and I can get on with finishing the repairs.
  9. Ok I've had a wee go with the test lamp and tested each connection in the different positions of the key. I had the test lamp connected to the negative terminal (with the battery connected up) and then touched each terminal on the back of the ignition. Off but with key in brown - live white - no reading white/orange - no reading white/red - no reading Position 1 brown - live white - no reading white/orange - live white/red - no reading Position 2 (click from engine bay when turned into this position) brown - live white - live
  10. Missingsid, I think you might be onto something. There are two red wires: It's difficult to tell but I think you might be right and that it was the thinner of the two that was originally connected (and I had put the thick one back on). The thin wire runs to the radio connections, the thick wire goes through the firewall and into the engine bay and connects behind the block: I have a photo of it loose from when I was taking things apart and I have a feeling it might not have been connected to anything, or that I had somehow unfastened it when removing the dash and then take
  11. Thanks for your replies. I'm totally out of my depth with anything electrical so I'm pulling my hair out a little bit (what's left of it anyway). Under the bonnet I think the only wires I disconnected were the brake fluid sensor, the bonnet alarm switch and the A pillar door switch (both of the switches were broken and I'm waiting on new ones coming) I've had a pretty good look at the wires to check their integrity and worked my way back over the wires from the ignition but I'll have another look over again in the morning. I don't really know which wires could be the culprit, my head
  12. I've had my dash and steering wheel/column etc. off to do my master cylinder and some welding and I'm having some electrical issues. I have no idea what's gone wrong but I've reconnected the wiring and when I connect the battery negative now the starter begins cranking. This was without the key in at first, then put the key in and turned whilst it was cranking. It didn't start but the battery is weak and it sounded like it was starting to struggle. Does anyone have any ideas what I might have done? I have checked photos of the ignition switch before I started and after and the wires are i
  13. I've just been doing my pedal boxes today, before I realised I'd run out of paint anyway. I think it's meant to be 140mm from the bottom of the pedal pad to the floor so you're pretty close. I think you adjust the screw on the front of the pedal box (towards the engine bay) first and then adjust the nuts on the master cylinder. If you still have the old box you could slacken the bolts on the master cylinder and set the adjustment screw to the same length as your old one then adjust the pushrod. Mine also has the pin holding the pedal into the box but it was crooked so I didn't bother tryi
  14. Thanks for the info Simon, that blog entry looks incredibly useful. Especially the list of fittings, thanks for taking the time to write that all out. Ironically I've done both footwells already but I've put off investigating behind the dash. I think I might have used your post, Western, for guidance when I did mine and it was really useful. Mine weren't anywhere near as bad. Looks like you did a really top job on the footwell. The section that needs work is above the footwell and to the left of the steering column bracket (looking from the engine bay side). It looks like yours has been
  15. I'm replacing my clutch master cylinder on a 1998 300tdi 110 and in the time honoured fashion of making sure every job takes a lot longer than expected I have uncovered some poor welding on the bulkhead which needs redoing. I have removed the brake pedal box ok and I need to remove the upper steering column and lower dash for access. Am I right in thinking I need to take all the top sections of the dash away before I can remove the lower section or is it possible to remove it on it's own? I've taken out all the fixings I can see but it's not looking like it wants to go anywhere. For
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