Sharp
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Posts posted by Sharp
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Great information and interesting reading from Drumstick. I opted for a 300tdi about 8 years ago. I drove some TD5's and prefer that engine and dash, however a couple I looked at had engine issues and the additional complexity put me off. Both engines have their quirks and weak points. I've been happy with the 300, it's really easy to work on, parts are cheap and it seems pretty indestructible (fingers crossed).
I wish I had waited and saved up an extra few thousand and bought a vehicle whose body and chassis were in better condition. Despite trying to educate myself, I didn't really know what I was looking at and my enthusiasm for crawling around in the gutter holding a welder didn't last as long as I had hoped! For the amount I have spent over the years, I could probably have bought two vehicles by now - however I have also learned a lot and had endless excuses for buying shiny tools!
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Thanks all, I have ordered the polybush kit and some new bolts
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I have some lovely wheel wobbly and think it's the panhard rod. The tracking was badly out but is now sorted, wheel bearings all around, all radius arm bushes, damper, track rod ends and drag link ball joints are all recent. The only other thing on the list is the preload on the swivels and the steering box but there is definitely movement in the panhard rod so that's next on the list.
When i wiggle the chassis side of the panhard rod the bolt rattles in the bush, in other words the inner collar of the bush doesn't have movement against the rubber, but the bolt has movement against the inner collar of the bush in all directions as if the bolt is too narrow for the fitting.
Is this normal and just needs tightening up or is the bolt meant to be snug in the bush? I presume the latter and I need a new bush, but can't quite work out how it would end up becoming loose like that.
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Cheers everyone, I found a bearmach one on ebay for £35 which looks good quality from the pictures
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I'm going to shortly replace my crankshaft pulley, it is the later lipped type. On the turner engineering website they have what looks to be a better quality one at £77 (https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/lhh100660-crankshaft-gear-c2x20634594), compared to the aftermarket ones which are about £25. Has anyone had any issues with the aftermarket types like this - https://www.paddockspares.com/lhh100660-crankshaft-pulley-300tdi.html
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I think the most likely scenario is I missed the blown fuse, but I was sure when I initially checked them they were all ok! Either that or it was two separate issues...however my money is on my own stupidity!
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I have the same problem. Replaced the bonnet switch, tested the door switches and then put a piece of duct tape over the red light on the dash and added it to the "pending" list!
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Turned out to be one of the new light units shorting it's connections when a bulb was fitted, at least that's my guess. When the bulb was twisted in, it looked like it was catching on the positive connection and shorted out against the negative. When I bent the connection back down it stopped blowing fuses.
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Thank you, that's incredibly helpful!
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I'm a little pushed for time so I've just ordered a new switch. I think all the dash lights that come on when the stalk switch is on are not working, so the blue full beam light and the indicator light comes on, but none of the illumination bulbs nor the green warning lamp come on.
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Thanks peaklander, I'll order up another switch. I didn't notice before, but the instrument panel isn't lit up either so sounds like you're right with the stalk being the fault?
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Yeah headlights are working as normal
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I knew that one of my front side lights had not been working, a new bulb hadn't fixed it so had ordered a new assembly to replace it as it was badly corroded. Put it on (both sides) and it lit up but noticed the other one was also out. Turned the lights off, put a new bulb in that side and now all four lights aren't working. I'm getting 6-7 volts at the front (both sides) and nothing on the rear side lights or the registration light. I didn't check these before starting, but assume they weren't all out. I think the fuses are 11-14 but checked every fuse and don't have any blown, fuses all feel tight and the terminals are clean. The rear brake lights are working and the headlights are working normally. I believe I have the correct bulbs and have tried a few (R5W).
Can anyone point me in the direction of what to check next?
(1998 300tdi 110)
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Thanks for that. "Rotate cam if necessary till mark lines up." - that was the bit that was a surprise to me, as in manual and all the resources I've read and videos I've watched I hadn't seen it mentioned that the cam needed to be adjusted during a timing belt change. When I've done belts on other vehicles, once everything has been locked up nothing has needed to be adjusted as part of the precedure. I had thought that once the flywheel and pump were locked, the marks on the cam should line up and everything should be kept in place until the new belt was fitted and tensioned up. Every day is a learning day! It does sound like it's probably worth checking the crank gear before I adjust anything though.
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It's been out for a test run but I have no trips planned in it for a while so perhaps I should look at it sooner rather than later.
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1 hour ago, Peaklander said:
That’s because the fip flange has been mounted to the shaft just a little bit off, at the timing position that your 9mm drill timing pin would need.
Sounds like it's not a problem then, if I understand you correctly. Just put on a bit wonky.
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
In your first post you said 9mm pin in the FIP lock, I use a 3/8" drill bit , 9.5mm . The fit is very tight but needs to be.
The crank drive wheel key/keyway is still my prime suspect regarding cam wheel position.
Steve
That's interesting. I had read of other people saying that. The pin in the timing kit is 9mm and that was a tight fit.
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1 hour ago, fmmv said:
When you replace the oil seal, dont forget to also replace the big O ring behind the crank pulley as well.
Annoyingly I have all the seals and the o ring, but thought it was m6 bolts that went into the crank but they were too big.
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2 hours ago, fmmv said:
To move the camshaft pulley just put a spanner on the big nut, with the belt off I am assuming. You can adjust the pump position by loosening the 3 small bolts.
The three bolts just allow the outer pulley to rotate (the gold bit) for fitting the belt. It's hard to see in the picture, but if you look inside, past the gold part, you can see the internals don't quite line up.
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Thank you for everyone's help. I had another go at it this morning, using Mike's technique of removing the idler pulley before positioning the belt, and refitting it once the belt is on (TY-"300Tdi timing and tensioning the belt"). It went on quite easily doing that. I guess we'll see how it runs, but provided it doesn't go up in a cloud of smoke then I think I'll have it off again in a few months to see how it's running. The crank is leaking a little and I didn't have the right bolts (100mm M5 I think) to get it off so that will need doing at some point.
I'm reluctant to tinker with it seeing that it's been running ok and I don't know what I'm doing with adjusting the cam pulley, but it sounds like perhaps it's not set up quite right and I can't do much damage by adjusting it. I take it that to do so is just a case of rotating it by the big nut in the middle?
I also noticed the pump isn't quite aligned when the crank is locked.
Oh and no props deserved for getting the crank bolt off, I just removed the radiator and hit it with the impact!
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7 hours ago, fmmv said:
Have you tried moving the belt a tooth on the crank pulley and seeing if it lines up with camshaft at the mark?Don't worry about the rest till you have the crank and cam as near correct as you can. I bought a vehicle that looked similar, it ran but when timed right the difference running was night and day
Do you mean taking the pin out of the bellhousing that's locking the flywheel and rotating the crank pulley?
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I'm having some issues with fitting a new timing belt and looking for some help. (Mark on cam pulley not lining up and struggling to get the belt on)
It's a 1998 300tdi with the new timing kit (tensioner without the lip). Upon taking the casing off the belt was quite badly worn which I had attributed to the previous owner putting too much tension on the belt. You could see where the belt had ridden to the edge of the FIP pulley and worn against the casing creating lots of black fluff in the bottom. The idler pulley and tensioner were both in good condition.
I rotated the engine till the woodruff key was at 12 o'clock with the timing pin in the bell housing until it clicked then put the 9mm pin in the slot in the FIP pulley and noticed the mark on the camshaft pulley didn't line up with the arrow on the casing.
I figured it's probably fine, as the engine has been running well. But I'm now struggling to get the belt on and wondering if this is the problem
That's as close as I've been able to get it and it's not enough to get it around the FIP pulley (3 bolts are loosened). I've heard it's quite a struggle to get on so I'm not sure if I'm not forcing it hard enough or whether there is something wrong. I saw on one of Mike's video that he recommends taking the idler off once the tensioner is fitted, fitting the timing belt and then putting the idler pulley back on. I haven't tried that, but wanted some advice on whether something might be wrong with the cam position before trying to force it more, as to my eye, the belt misaligns about the same amount as the mark is off. I'm not sure how much force the bellhousing pin can take, but I've given the bolt a wiggle in each direction and can't create any play with the force I've put through it, the woodruff key looks to be pointing straight up.
Like I say, it has been running really nicely for a few years, the only thing recently is very occasionally it will over rev for a second without any extra pressure on the accelerator peddle, but I don't imagine that's anything to do with the timing. Any advice appreciated
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Jate rings are fine, I have used them but they are not as convenient or as pleasant to connect to as a tow hitch when there is snow on the ground.
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Thanks, I've had it ticking along at 60 with a plastic bag tied over the header tank opening (the rubber seal for the stat fits nicely). Barely a flicker on the temp guage and nothing much from the heater, hoses are all warm but not roasting hot.
I'm closer to my destination so I'm heading on, try and pick up a cap there and maybe try and fit the stat back in with the metal disc but forced open so it's as if it's in but working. Maybe drill some holes in the disc? Advice appreciated.
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Defender engine
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I believe www.turnerengineering.co.uk sell them.