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Sharp

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Sharp

  1. Thanks everyone, things I hadn't thought of there and would be good to have everything I need. I recently replaced the water pump, p-gasket and the rocker cover gasket, bolts and oil separator o-ring were all replaced recently to try and stop oil leaks (which have stayed away so far). I can't seem to be able to re-edit the post but have updated the list in case it's useful to anyone else Head Gasket New Head Bolts Oil and Filter Inlet Gasket Thermostat housing gasket Fresh coolant Extras Oil separator (rocker cyclone thing) O-ring Rocker cover gasket and washers Cylinder head dowels in case the existing ones are no good Glowplugs (if the existing ones are tested and nbg) Waterpump, bolts and P-Gasket Other Injector service (if you can get them somewhere to do this) Cylinder head check - pressure test, valves guides etc. (if you ...ditto above)
  2. I posted a little while ago re. coolant loss while driving. It's continued to lose about 1-2" out of the expansion tank every half hour or so, it varies sometimes it empties it, occasionally it doesn't lose any. Someone suggested it could be the headgasket so I'm going to try and replace it during the anticipated isolation. I've had a read through of the topics on here and come up with a list of things to buy, is there anything else that might be useful? Gasket New Bolts Oil and Filter Inlet Gasket (this was new about a year ago but they're not expensive) Thermostat housing gasket Fresh coolant (thanks monkie) Any hints or tips very welcome, it looks quite straightforward but I've said that before!
  3. Thanks Ed. Just done half an hour on the motorway taking it easy and it's been fine taking the cap off. Cycled having the fan on with the engine off for a few minutes and it only have a wee hiss on opening it up. Think Ian might be right unfortunately, it's looking a little oily in the tank now. On the plus side the water level hasn't dropped much.
  4. Cheers all, just got back from Morrisons with 20ltrs of water.... longer walk than anticipated! Took just under 5ltrs to get back to the level and leaving the engine running for a bit. I've turned the webasto preheated on as well. Hard to see for leaks because it's raining sideways but the bonnets noise matting was soaked above the expansion tank and the visible signs of water were around the tank area. If it doesn't lose fluid while it's warming up I'm planning to try and drive back home and see how it goes. I've heard horror stories of people being scalded taking the expansion tank cap off while it's hot but then I know topping up fluid on a long journey isn't unheard of with an old vehicle. What's the best solution to checking the level on the way up and topping up if needed? Is it better to do it with the engine running or should you just leave it for 10/20 minutes to cool slightly or does it have to be cold? Grateful for the help thanks
  5. Driving in the lakes and the heater went cold so pulled over, expansion tank empty and looks like coolant sprayed all over the engine bay. Any ideas what it could be? I've just had it down the motorway and up and down a few hills, I'm thinking I might try and get some water to refill it and try getting home. Not sure if I should just get the recovery out. It does lost coolant a little normally and it could have been a little low before I set off because I haven't checked it in a couple of weeks.
  6. Thanks for the replies. A brief google of deep dish and that looks like them. Shows how observant I am but I'd never noticed the difference. My phone camera's seen better days!
  7. Just had another look and its only one of them, 4 have a 12mm depth, one has about 2mm. Wonder if the spare wheel is made different and its been swapped over at some point.
  8. Had all my wheels off to spray some cavity wax and noticed my alloys have different depths for the nuts to sit in. Anyone know what's going on?
  9. Mike recently put a video up about footwell repairs, wish I'd seen it before I'd done mine he's got some useful tips:
  10. Just a quick update. I got the spring kit andthat sorted it. Was quite a simple job, took a leisuirely hour and the kit came with instructions which helped with seeing where the spring was meant to go.
  11. Wow, that looks like exactly what I need. Thanks
  12. Not sure if anyone else has had this or knows if it can be fixed without replacing the mechanism. I'm in the process of putting a new skin on the door and after lubing up the door mechanism it seems the little latch inside is now so loose that to lock the door you need to turn the key and then keep pressure up on the handle as you're turning it back and removing it. It's then locked but if you give it a wiggle or a bash it unlocks itself. If you just turn the key and then turn it back then the movement of the key makes the latch inside drop down and unlock itself. Anyone have any ideas? It's this type of lock:
  13. You want torq-set bits (mortorq look similar). They work really well on all the large phillips head type screws on the defender like the ones that hold the floors down. You might have some already if you have one of those security bit sets like the picture below (far left top row).
  14. Have you checked your heater air intake is clear of water and draining properly?
  15. Thanks teabag, I'll order some up and refill it. Hopefully no damage done, reservoir was pretty empty this morning.
  16. I noticed my power steering was whining and when I checked this morning it had run dry. In a rush for work and I put a little bit of dot4 in. Should I top up with the correct fluid once I get hold of some or should I drain it all out first? It's a 1998 300tdi
  17. Thanks for the comments. I was initially looking for a van but after driving around the country looking at too many inaccurately described landrovers I ended up going for the best of them and I didn't come across any decent van backs. Well I came across one lovely red one but they wanted £9.5k for it and it had serious engine problems, madness. I've already poured quite a lot of work into this one as well and the thought of having to go through the process of buying and selling again would be painful!
  18. Not sure if you have a specific need for a LR one or not but the mercedes sprinter bottle jacks work well. There's one on ebay just now for £20, someone who obviously hasn't checked to see how much they're worth before listing as I think I paid a bit more for mine!
  19. Out of the leatherman's I would second Ed's vote for the skeletool, it has everything you need and it's a nice size. I used to work in a shop that sold leatheman's and the warranty is pretty quibble free. We had a customer bring their third skeletool back with a broken blade and they replaced them all. (It was quite obvious the blade had been used to pry something open.) Personally I usually carry small cheap pocket tools at work like the one below. It's no good if it's not in your pocket and the plier type tools are just a little bit big for me. I had a nice little knife a while back which was tiny but the blade was quite thick so it could be ground it into the shape of a screwdriver. The leatherman squirt ps4 is nice but it's too expensive to lose.
  20. I have a 1998 County 110 with about 160k on the clock and I've been putting a small camper conversion in the back. It was relatively untouched and everything was as stock when I got it so I've not made any major modifications and made sure anything I've added is reversible. Just wondering what people's thoughts are on how much value is kept by keeping everything orginal, for example the headlining board is in good condition but the fabric could probably do with replacing or cleaning but I'm considering taking it out completely and just carpet lining over the insulation I put in which would give me a couple of inches extra headroom in the back. I've also considered painting all the grey plastic a darker colour just for personal preference but I know that's not everyone's taste. I've still got all the rear seats and seat belt mounts and I'd thought when it comes time to sell her it would be good to have everything but I'm quite short on storage space. I was thinking if I sold the headlining boards and seat belt mounts (not sure how much either of these are worth?) then it would probably fund a bit of carpet and paint to finish sprucing up the inside. Not a particularly succinct quesion but I'd be interested to hear what people's thought's are on whether trying to keep all the original parts and colours is worth it or whether I'm unneccessarily inconveniencing myself. We're planning on moving house in the not too distant future and I'll probably end up selling it in a couple of years.
  21. There are plenty defenders advertised for those kind of £10-20k figures but I'm not sure how many actually move at that price. If that area of the bulkhead by the door hinges is rusty and the chassis is gone then a new chassis, bulkhead patching and new running gear might not bring it up to that value unless it's otherwise desirable. Do you trust your garage and their experience with defenders, do you want to sell it and make money or is it a keeper you're attached to? If the former then it sounds like a risk and your margins are going to be tight unless you're doing some of the work yourself. There are nice defenders out there for the £10k mark which would be your £3.5k sale price and £7k repair bill. Is £3.5k the amount they're offering you or the amount they think you'll get selling privately? If you spent £6k on it you might get more than £3.5k as a project, people are paying silly money for rotten defenders these days. I think there's a buzzweld centre near to you, they seem to be quite well regarded and might be able to offer you a second opinion.
  22. Britannica restorations has a few youtube videos on door seals which are worth watching.
  23. I ended up going quite heavy handed with the sealant about 6 months ago and I've been leak free since then, made a bit of a mess but I'm dry. It used to get me on the first corners of the day so I presume some of the water was coming in through the roof but the worst culprets for me were the windscreen seal, door seal and windscreen hinges/brackets. I was quite bought into captain tollys judging by the reviews but it didn't work for me, I think the gaps must have been too big for it to seal! It ended up peeling off like long strips of pva glue. I used different brands of polyrethane sealant (sikaflex, tiger seal etc.) and didn't really notice any difference between them. I ran a stiff nylon brush with some white spirit along all the seams on the roof and then filled in with tiger seal and smoothed off. It didn't look too bad and it wasn't raised up at all. I did around the outside edge of the sunroof seal as well and plastered vaseline around the where the glass meets the seal (I read somewhere of someone putting edge trim around the edge of the glass and that's on the list but it takes heavy directional rain to drip in now) My gutters were noticably cracked, these got sealed all the way along There's also the same stuff along the top of the windscreen Not sure if that leaks as badly but it got the same treatment
  24. I haven't done mine yet but I've got the fxliner kit from buzzweld - http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/fxliner-1k-crossmember-bumper-refurbishing-kit.html. The crossmember on mine is about 3 or 4 years old, it had been left with the original paint and I gave it a coating of dinitrol while I was doing the chassis just over a year ago. Probably an element of user error and I didn't put it on thick enough but it started rusting around the edges pretty quickly and is covered in surface rust now.
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