TheBigJim

Check the voltage on the starter side of teh solenoid - contacts can get burnt and not connect properly. Had real trouble with a Series 1 many years ago and that was it.

To answer m y own question: 569291 is similar but about 1" shorter.

Is 569291 which I think is the SIII spring interchageable with 277455 which is the SII one

What is it worth to you, and why do you want it? Do you want a longterm project to put galvy chassis and bulkhead on (many £££££) and hours of work (OK if that is what you want to do and enjoy doing). Then you will have a vehicle you know every part of, reliable if you do all that is needed, which will last for years. My SIIA is 54 years old and approaching that state, should last another 54 (Unlike me.....)

WHERE ARE YOU GETTING IT FROM?

My home made captive 'nuts', were a strip of thick metal with tapped holes in them. I have now discovered there are captive nuts available from Paddocks, , part no MRC2178

Thanks, now I understand!

I think I understand! She is a station wagon with hardtop, so I think position of bulkhead is fixed at the bottom by the feet, and at the top by the windscreen, which is determined by the attachment to the roof. It all seemed to fit OK when put back, the doors had never been a good fit, and are better now than they were.

None, but its too cold and wet to be out working on my landy. But i will shut up now!!!

we had big wet sticky flakes coming horizontally this morning, now it is blowing a gale on the west coast of Scotland, so I am having an afternoon off, it was bad enough yesterday working on the landy as my fingers kept getting too cold to do anything, But I got the steering connected and the clutch mechanism fixed.

Thanks, snagger. I finally sussed it out, but had difficulty getting the doors to line up properly, got them near enough in the end.

I think I sussed the hinges after mushrroms on toast for lunch!

managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but... Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat.

I have concluded that the top hinges were on spire nuts, the bottom on captive ones, as the captive ones wont fit in the top slot.

Thanks, Snagger. In fact I have some neoprene off cuts from a firm that makes wet suits, could probably make my own!!!

Yes, it was confusing, but I took loads of pics as I took it apart, and have them all correct.I would expect the pull to be at the bottom, but it was not, and the pic in the manual (page 25Q) shows it as I have it. But i can't see why it wouldn't work the other way up! perhaps a bit more experimental engineering, always possible on a landy! I think it is just that the new 'rubbers' are hard plastic. I had replaced one before, and kept that one, and that has very nearly shut, so I think if I warm them and work at it they will shut eventually. Really blowing a hoolie here today, and I'm a bit 'under the weather', so nothing done today.

Thanks, Gazzar. Yes it is a project. I am new to this forum, so not aware of all the places to post. I will start a thread asap. I was a member of the forum that went defunct, and there was a thread on when I put the new galvy chassis on her, it was archived, but I guess that has disappeared? I see one or two familiar names on here, good to see some old hands still going strong. BJ

Thanks for the suggestion. I put washing up liquid as a lubricant along the top edge, and they almost closed, so now I will get the heat gun out and see if they go the last bit. BJ

Put windscreen back y'day, begins to look like a landy again, not much done today as blowing a gale. I have captive nuts on a strip of metal for teh top door hinges, should I have teh same for the bottom ones??? 'Her' birthday tomorrow, so taking her out for lunch, won't get much done.

Glued new rubber seals in groove behind vents, but one vent won't close. Any hints, other than making rubber seal thinner?

drink and golf would cost less than doing up an old landy!!! With the wind and the rain here i would just go somewhere dry and warm. Had to re sheet the landy today after the wind last night. Managed to get topcoat on vents etc, had to warm the paint in a basin of hot water, warm the parts with a hot air gun, then got a decent flow with the paint, finished off with a jenny brush. A technique i used when painting boats, if large area put on with a small roller, then flatted down with a jenny brush, then a few weeks later when it had really hardened if poss could polish it to a mirror finish. But it is really satisfying to see the end result, nice clean bits ready to go on!

Lots of painting done, its not replacing the bulkhead, its all the wire brushing, cleaning and painting that takes the time. And where to put them when painted - had to take her out last night cos I had covered the freezer in landy bits - whats the problem with that?

Thanks, miggit. I must be getting old, added it to my bookmarks to find it was there already!!

Thanks saved me a bit! More wire brushing and painting of bits to go back on teh new bulkhead.

I am about to start stripping a S3 gearbox. Is there any more in: Land Rover Series 3 Repair Operation Manual: Owners Manual Paperback – Illustrated, 4 Mar 1981 which I would have to buy than in the haynes Series II, IIA and III 1958 to 1985, which I have. Thanks