Niamh
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Posts posted by Niamh
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If thats the part number for the 200TDi diff flange the yes, however you may need a spacer as there is a couple of different length flanges.
That's the later V8 flange kit.
So is that all one needs to order?
Be a bit of a pain to strip everything down and find one is missing parts for rebuilding.
Niamh
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Is the vibration very bad?
No, if it was the source might be easier to locate
is the car modified in any way?2" lift, and the vibe only started 6 months after the current wheels/tyres were fitted... can't have thrown a weight as they went on unbalanced.
can you get someone else to go in the car with you to see if they can help ID it?My husband's been out with me can't even roughly locate a source
Niamh
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i have just over come vibration under load on my disco, i took the front prop off and took it for a run, if it was that prop it wouldnt vibrate, as it turns out it was that one and i then found slight play in one of the uj's, if it hadnt been that i would have put the front one on again and done the same with the rear prop, hope that helps
After fixing the CV joint/halfshaft propshafts have to be the next thing to try, the question is which one to start with...
Niamh
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And then just bolt in STC4858 instead I take it?
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What does one need to change at the diff end to eliminate the doughnut?
Niamh
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Having taken the precaution of replacing the RH front 1/2 shaft and CV joint which had some rotational play the vibration is still there.
It only starts at about 35MPH and is only there under power.
The front propshaft UJs are plat fess, there is only the bit of pay into the transfer box & front diff.
The rear doughnut is a bit cracked (see pictures
) but is it bad enough to cause a vibration?Niamh
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My Rovocom lite from Blackbox solutions with the SM007 module reads the EDC on our 300TDi Auto fine.
Mind I guess one wouldn't call their kit "cheapo"
Niamh
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Anyone have any recommendations for thread lock compound? Most of my local motor-factors sell locktight 241 (rave recommends 270? for calliper bolts iirc)
Well it depends if your preference is for stick or liquid, I have 248 medium strength and 268 high strength sticks in my tool chest, and I've always used the 248 on brake caliper bolts whereas for example I'll use 268 on the swivel ball bolts.
241 is a medium strength locker so should be fine for caliper bolts
Niamh
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OK, replacement 1/2 shat an CV joint arrived yesterday and there is no rotational play... Now just need to wait for it to stop pissing down to do the refitting.
Niamh
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QUESTION: I now have a hub box spanner, but the manual says about torquing up the wheel bearing preload. As I'm fitting new bearings/seals what's the 'best' way of doing this given that I cannot fit a torque wrench to my box spanner? I've read the guides about tightening up until there's resistance, then slackening off quarter/half a turn.
In my view a box spanner is the wrong tool for the job, you need something like http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-spanner-tommybar-drive-p-32.html or http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-2-11831-92503-sealey-impact-socket-52mm-1-2%201dsq-drive.asp that you can get a torque wrench on
Also, how do I keep the inner nut from turning when I'm tightening the outer lock-nut (again without a torque wrench) to approximately 100nm (or is that ftlb?) or whatever the correct value is?The tab washer does that for you and it's 60Nm
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Only if they're knackered.
Niamh
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If you've got that must play then if it is splines then you have practically none left... FWIW it takes about 15 mins to pull a 1/2 shaft and CV joint to check.
Niamh
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72 degrees of play!
Niamh
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Just stripped it off the 1/2 shaft and most of the play is in the splines between 1/2 shaft & CV joint.
Niamh
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No click on full lock... but with 235/85s full lock isn't what it used to be.
Given the cost I think it's worth replacing anyway.
Niamh
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Both seem OK.
Though I'm not going to put the CV joint back in until I get a view on whether it's OK or not.
Axial play seems OK and is mostly at the circlip so it seems
Niamh
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Should there be any rotational play in a CV joint? I never recall seeing any before, however this RH CV joint has quite a bit and I'm wondering if that's the source of the vibration under power.
I don't really want to go to the trouble of pulling the other CV joint to compare unless I have to.
RHD 300TDi non-ABS
Niamh
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white smoke when hot?
sounds very head gasket to me.
will produce steam through exhaust when hot.
when engine is cold, take a look in the radiator expansion tank.
loss of coolant?
oil in antifreeze?
does the coolant swell up dramatically when the engine is revved a little on the throttle?
had same problem with couple of my vehicles over the years, was always blown head gasket.
mark
Time to pressure test the cooling system, if the pressure doesn't hold steady for 30 mins plus there's a leak in the coolant system somewhere.
Niamh
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ive bought a set of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BNIP-IRWIN-bolt-grip-5-Piece-Base-Set-394001_W0QQitemZ120535949382QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item1c1080a046 and they have been worth their weight in gold, im yet to find a bolt they wont undo HTH
Provided they don't snap
Niamh
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Ah yes, the problem there is that the fan simply won't undo... I keep trying, but no joy. I believe Les even gave up on this one a few years back!!
Well you'll find changing the timing belt a bit of a challenge then!
Niamh
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Firstly, how are you supposed to reach the lower radiator hose, it is tucked up out the way for good reason I'm sure, but it is also a pig to get to!
Remove the viscous fan and the plastic cowling first.
Niamh
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My 300TDi has just picked up a vibration under load (nothing when coasting), still trying to determine if it's engine or road speed related though.
Wonder if it's purely coincidental that it started right after I replaced the off side swivel ball.
Niamh
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Looks different to under my bonnet as I seem to have the original hosing still in place.
Niamh
Arbs or Kam lockers
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I'd be happy to test them if someone would care to give me some
Niamh