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About doezel

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  1. Awesome! Very creative. Thanks for the extended writeup and pictures.
  2. Ballcock ( 🙂 ); you have any pictures of your setup? Including how they are mounted? jon: In my 90 I've also moved the front seats quite a bit back (headrests were way behind the seatbelt mounts) never had an issue with the belts feeling loose or unconfortable.
  3. So, I switched from my 90 (which I fitted with full Puma forward facing folding rear seats) to a 110. The problem is that (since I'm 1m93) I shove my seat quite far back when driving. I installed the MUD seat rails so I have enough leg room. (https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-seat-rails) My kids now are quite cramped on the 2nd seat row. I now have the standard 110 folding seats there without head-rests. I'm looking into a safe (with headrests), comfortable set of seats for the 2nd row with extra leg-room for my kids. So far I've come up with 3 options: 1) install p
  4. Well, change of plans! Since I found out that it's hard to explain to my wife that with a 90 it's either luggage or kids. I just bought myself a nice 2003 TD5 automatic and decided to sell my beautiful 90 MPI. So the TD5 engine is already sold so (hopefully) I can start the swap of the TD5 to this Thor-V8 in the beginning september. Since there is already a ZF 4HP24 with a standalone compushift AND a 1.2 disco-transfer case in this 110, I will use that as a base to mount the engine to. I just need to change the bellhouse and torque convertor. I think the 110 is a better base
  5. Thanks Kev! Rate will be something I will have to fix as soon as I have my engine/gearbox in. Good idea to protect the IC, I'll look into that. as for the uint instead of int; I'll leave it that way, I think it's an INT64 now; that'll be fine.
  6. Needle and led aren't connected. The speed you see was on it when I pulled the power.
  7. I got it running with a very cheap solution, all info here:
  8. Hey! You mean something like this? I just built the schema that I mentioned above. I didn't use R3 because there's already a resister for the led in the speedo. pin 6 of the speedo is connected to 12V. pin 3 of the speedo is connected to pin 3 of the 555 chip. When I applied 11V - 12.5V (about the battery voltage when not charging) I got a (about)4-sec flash from the red led of the speedo. Edit: as for the 555chip, I used the ICM7555IPA. This one has a useable voltage range between 2V and 18V (well within the range of a good battery to a very bad on
  9. Just received a set of pink connectors for my speedo. Hope I can install them soon (within a month) together with my "new" engine....
  10. I will build this one to check: http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/dummy-alarm.html parts will cost me €2,62 for 1 set (times 2, and €6,95 make €12,19 🙂 ) I will run it from the fuel-relay when it's switched off. So it will always run when the engine isn't running.
  11. Ah yes, good idea. I’ll try to find a standalone little module to send 12v pulses when the engine is off. i think it would be something around a 555 timer. 555’s seem to run at 12v fine. https://www.electronicshub.org/dummy-alarm-circuit/
  12. The red light is just a matter of putting 12V on pin 6. With my new engine I will use that light as a "Check Engine Light" which I can switch on when an undesired situation appears. But that's something I can do with the Megasquirt installed. Or do you mean something else?
  13. Ah yes! I meant indeed that I was happy that the correct anticipated amount of distance appeared on the display. The extra kilometer was already expected. I am now checking to see if I can get the runup-circuit going again. edit: Succes! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNDoYsFZON4 I mixed up Pin 1 & 2 of the pink connector....
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