doezel

Can confirm that my Thor is running perfectly fine on the td5 fuel pump pumping e5 fuel at 4.5 bar. I’ve limited the pressure to 4 bar and everything is fine.

Little update: starting time is nearing... First I had to make my own plugleads; quite interesting to do! Then I could finally build the air-intake since I received the correct size hoses. I use a 90 degree bend front the throttle body to the Megasquirt-V8 air-temp/idle-air-connection pipe. From there I use a 45 degree bend to the standard TD5 MAP sensor house (MAP is not used anymore). The TD5 airbox still fits and is connected to the standard TD5 raised air intake. You also see the Fuel Pressure regulator on top of this picture (The shiny thing). This will reduce the TD5 fuel pump pressure to the desired pressure for the THOR fuel-rail. Excess pressure is dumped into the standard TD5 return line. Finally I was able to bolt the flex-plate to the torque convertor. Quite a PITA but with a good magnetic lamp and my iPhone camera to "look around the corner" I was able to screw in the 4 bolts. Also the Serpentine belt is now mounted.... Another challenge was that my engine had a secondary air injection system (which seems to inject extra air into the exhaust) Since I wasn't using that system anymore and since the thread was really weird, I had some plugs made to block the holes for that 2nd air system. Just leaving them open wouldn't be an option.... 🙂 Still to do before starting: create/connect cooling system, put oil in the engine, check all sensors and actuators, mount the exhaust and start the thing!

ah damn! I'm referring both times to the C0504..... 🙂 My bad! further investigation necessary...

Thanks elbekko! Your Rave screenshot left me puzzled! Also the connector codes didn't match with my wiring diagram. I found out that the part you've placed a screenshot here is from a Puma defender: https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2007/C0504 The connector I have is the C0504: (pin 10 and 11) https://www.lrworkshop.com/nl/connectors/defender-2002my/C0504 Can't find that text about a TD5 in rave though. Maybe you can find it? Cheers

Hi All, I'm in the middle of replacing the TD5 engine for a V8 with Megasquirt MS3X ECU in my 2003 110. Now I'm removing the old wiring and ECU for the TD5 and I've noticed that some of the wires from the TD5 ECU are connected to the ABS module and are used for the Aircon. I've identified the following: (I use the Defender MY2002 wiring diagram and the ECU pinouts from the NANOCOM site) https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/lucas-td5-diagnostic https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/uploads/downloads/WABCO D TYPE (DEFENDER) ECU Guide.pdf For the WABCO ABS module there are 2 wires going from the ECU to the ABS: They are going to connector 2; WABCO pin 10 (Throttle Position Sensor) goes to TD5 ECU pin 32 which is marked "ABS" WABCO pin 11 ( First Gear) goes to TD5 ECU pin19 which is marked "TACHOMETER ENGINE SPEED" ??? Has anyone ever rerouted these signals? Any tips? If not I'll measure them on another TD5. For The Aircon there are 4 wires connected to the ECU B4 (Cooling fan relay) B9 (A/C clutch request) Coming from the "Sensor-pressure-Air Conditioning" B23 (A/C Fan request) Coming from the "UNIT-AIR-CONDITIONING AC)" B29 (A/C Relay) However, on the 300TDI wiring diagram I see that these 4 wires are linked to components marked as: SWITCH-FAN-AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) (S229) SWITCH-CLUTCH-AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) (S207) Can anyone tell me what these 2 components do? (I presume they switch something, but where are they located and when do they switch?) Thanks for any info. Cheers!

I would bypass the cooler and run the return line straight from the pressure regulator.

Hi garrycol, The pump I have is just the pump, it needs to be placed inside the TD5 pump-assembly which needs to be butchered. Hence the question if I can just keep the TD5 pump. The fuel-gauge sender will remain the same anyway. I will run the V8 system with a Megasquirt MS3X with a seperate fuel-pressure-regulator in the engine-bay. That regulator needs a feed and a return line.

Good info Bowie; TD5 fuel pump seems to deliver 180Liter/Hour at 58psi V8 needs 120Liter/Hour at 52psi. (Edit of course these flows are determined with the correct fuel for the pump. It seems that running diesel through a petrol pump isn't adviced as diesel is thicker thus reducing flow/pressure. So the other way around it might just be fine) So I'll think I'll just give it a try and see what happens when I just pump the fuel around. And then try to run the engine on it. The most logical solution is to just swap it for a Petrol pump (I even have it lying around) But what if it just works?

Looking at this image I see a feed line going to the pressure regulator and a return line coming back (through a fuel cooler?) Of course I will completely drain all diesel and replace the filter, but what could go wrong with just using this system and hooking it up to the new Fuel Pressure Regulator for my Thor?

Hi! I currently am In the process of converting my TD5 to a V8. About the fuel pump; is it possible to just use the existing pump? I read that it should deliver 4 bar (58 psi) and that my thor needs 52 psi. but the td5 has a high pressure and and a low pressure circuit which looks kinda complex. can I use that pump? Has it been done before? thanks for any feedback.

Well, I I have to make an appointment and have them check if everything went fine and it's safe. Then I can start paying less road-tax and get a green sticker for Germany 😉

Update! We finally got around to start doing the swap! First there was a lot of TD5 carp removed: (This will be going into another Defender, don't worry!) And then The correct Bellhouse and torque convertor was mounted. Then the THOR was fitted: next step; plumbing it all in!

Thanks, I’d love to see the pics.

Awesome! Very creative. Thanks for the extended writeup and pictures.

Ballcock ( 🙂 ); you have any pictures of your setup? Including how they are mounted? jon: In my 90 I've also moved the front seats quite a bit back (headrests were way behind the seatbelt mounts) never had an issue with the belts feeling loose or unconfortable.

So, I switched from my 90 (which I fitted with full Puma forward facing folding rear seats) to a 110. The problem is that (since I'm 1m93) I shove my seat quite far back when driving. I installed the MUD seat rails so I have enough leg room. (https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-seat-rails) My kids now are quite cramped on the 2nd seat row. I now have the standard 110 folding seats there without head-rests. I'm looking into a safe (with headrests), comfortable set of seats for the 2nd row with extra leg-room for my kids. So far I've come up with 3 options: 1) install puma 2nd row seats and install the FAR legroom extenders. https://farcorners.co.uk/product/far-defender-110130-second-row-seat-risers/ question here is how much extra room will that bring? Is it posible to mount it a bit more to the back? I like that it's a standard set, I will find one that will match my Puma front seats and that I can also fold it up completely for extra storage. 2) install 2 exmoor Premium High Back seats: https://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/premium-high-back-full-seat-set.html it's nice that the backs of the seats can recline. (If I (re)move the most forward inward facing seats) how much extra legroom wil that bring? downside is that only the backs will fold forward. 3) install 2 Puma front seats on their own rails. Since the frame will be custom, I can decide for my self where I want to place them. Has this been done before? Any tips/pictures?

Well, change of plans! Since I found out that it's hard to explain to my wife that with a 90 it's either luggage or kids. I just bought myself a nice 2003 TD5 automatic and decided to sell my beautiful 90 MPI. So the TD5 engine is already sold so (hopefully) I can start the swap of the TD5 to this Thor-V8 in the beginning september. Since there is already a ZF 4HP24 with a standalone compushift AND a 1.2 disco-transfer case in this 110, I will use that as a base to mount the engine to. I just need to change the bellhouse and torque convertor. I think the 110 is a better base to start this conversion from as I already have a much better brake-system including ABS! It also has aircon, electric windows, a heated front windshield, a nice speaker system to compliment the Pioneer 2din radio I have.

Thanks Kev! Rate will be something I will have to fix as soon as I have my engine/gearbox in. Good idea to protect the IC, I'll look into that. as for the uint instead of int; I'll leave it that way, I think it's an INT64 now; that'll be fine.

Needle and led aren't connected. The speed you see was on it when I pulled the power.

I got it running with a very cheap solution, all info here:

Hey! You mean something like this? I just built the schema that I mentioned above. I didn't use R3 because there's already a resister for the led in the speedo. pin 6 of the speedo is connected to 12V. pin 3 of the speedo is connected to pin 3 of the 555 chip. When I applied 11V - 12.5V (about the battery voltage when not charging) I got a (about)4-sec flash from the red led of the speedo. Edit: as for the 555chip, I used the ICM7555IPA. This one has a useable voltage range between 2V and 18V (well within the range of a good battery to a very bad one). Uses VERY little power; 60 microAmps Works from -25 to +85 degrees celcius (so when it's not mounted in the engine bay or on the exhaust it should be good). I think I will place the complete circuit on a little board, seal it up and place it at the back of the speedo. I just need a 12+ when the engine is switched off which I will get from the fuel-relay which is located next to the ECU in my cubby box. Just make sure you place a little fuse in that 12V line!!! Here's my power supply; it doesn't even register that the flasher-circuit is connected.

Just received a set of pink connectors for my speedo. Hope I can install them soon (within a month) together with my "new" engine....

I will build this one to check: http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/dummy-alarm.html parts will cost me €2,62 for 1 set (times 2, and €6,95 make €12,19 🙂 ) I will run it from the fuel-relay when it's switched off. So it will always run when the engine isn't running.

Ah yes, good idea. I’ll try to find a standalone little module to send 12v pulses when the engine is off. i think it would be something around a 555 timer. 555’s seem to run at 12v fine. https://www.electronicshub.org/dummy-alarm-circuit/