Green Bob

This is a very informative thread and I am very glad I paid someone else to fit mine!

Not sure how much science is behind it but the '4 psi rule' seems to be a thing I've seen in car circles. Inflate tyres to desired pressure, drive until the tyres are warmed up and the psi should increase by 4 psi. More and the pressures are too low, less and the pressures are too high. On page 2 of this link it suggests to use 6psi for larger tyres.

Fox. I'll have been driving Nelly, the white 90, at that point. We both won the punch hunt at Buildwas a few months after that Bala trip, if that helps jog your memory! Still got her but she's in a state of slowly rotting in the garden. A Disco 3 being the daily and a 110 mid-chassis swap at the front of the house.

Daan, that photo got me looking further into the above mentioned vehicles and a brief search on google led me right back to this forum!

I think I have a vague recollection of you getting a workout with a hi-lift. Was that in the woods at Bala, Jon?

I can understand wanting to get the winch pulling from further in to maximise the pulling power but that's exactly the scenario where you'd use a snatch block to do the same thing. I can't imagine a circumstance where you'd want to be using the most of the winch's power but you wouldn't want to be pulling 2:1. If, for example, you think the anchor might not cope with 'double the force', you're not going to get the vehicle out if it needs that anyway! I think its appeal is how shiny it is and the video is someone trying to justify why they've spent money on a new fad. It seems to have multiple uses but they all look to require using it in conjunction with kit that you'd already use for those situations anyway. I'd be interested in your thoughts after using it for a bit, especially how well it does at holding doors open or papers down...

I thought it looked a bit like a climbing belay device and one of the proposed uses seems to be to belay a vehicle though I wonder how often people find they're in a position where that's necessary! Found a video to demonstrate its use in reducing the line left on the winch drum. (X lock bit starts about 10 mins in) I think I'd prefer to use a snatch block and get the mechanical advantage as well as reducing the line left on the winch.

I think it highlights one of the big issues with what a lot of people try to achieve 'flex'-wise too. Nige's being balanced front and rear allows the body to stay fairly level where the other seems to be following the comparatively rigid front axle. It certainly always used to be the case that people would be getting 'massive droop' at the back wheels but the front, still restricted by the radius arms, would barely move at all. There's another good YT video that demonstrates how little it appears to achieve when you just have lots of rear end articulation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBNPZFNOK-4

Very nice! I reckon one of those would fit in the garage nicely if I could get it past the OH without her noticing.

The SLRC events at Seven Sisters were always something I'd planned to pull my finger out and manage to attend. Its a shame the site will no longer cater for similar events as it looked to have a great mix of obstacles! I'll keep a keen eye out for where any future ones will be for when I (eventually) have the 90 sorted, hopefully in the next decade... Also in the northern minority so something a bit closer than Cornwall would be good but I know SLRC are based in the south so wouldn't expect anything too close.

Get the 110 back on the road (identical to my aim for 2023). It's mid-chassis swap and has suffered from project creep as well as distraction and procrastination despite being the first thing I see when I open the curtains each morning. If I'm honest, just having the body reunited with the rolling chassis would be a nice way to end the year even if incomplete! Keep the Disco 3 on the road which is a task in itself. Get OH's ex-marital home sold and out the way so we can concentrate on drawing up plans for what we're going to do with mine: gabling the neds of th hio roof, extending over the garage and adding a dormer, practically doubling the size of the living space. Probably enough to be going on with but the 90 sat round the back of the house by the garden is definitely on the list of projects that will be rearing their ugly head as soon as there's chance. Not to mention the garden itself! "Adulting" is certainly a never-ending list of jobs.

In fairness, you could ask the same of Solihull!

Avoiding chopping the bulkhead about or moving the transfer box and needing to change prop lengths was what I was aiming for by trying to retain the LT77. Maybe a fool's errand and certainly all just vapour for the time being. Thanks both!

Thanks Dave. I thought it all sounded too simple when I read 'just swap the input shaft over for a V8 one'!

Been doing a lot of reading on the subject and can't find an answer as to whether the input pinion on the LT77 is interchangeable with any other LT77. Specifically, I have a 50A suffix E box that I'm contemplating putting behind a V8. I know in its standard form, it would need a '4 cylinder conversion kit' and turned down input shaft or altered spigot bush but this would then potentially require adjustment to the bulkhead due to the engine wanting to take up the same space. I've read a number of times that the alternative to that would be swapping the bellhousing and input pinion with that from a V8 and the engine and boxes will sit in their factory positions. The 50A LT77 has different gear ratios to the later boxes but does anyone know for definite whether the input pinions the same teeth number/fitment? Thanks in advance for any advice! (I know the simplest option would be to just find a V8 box to fit but better the devil I know if I can get it to fit?)

Toying with the idea of adding flamestart to the 110. Does anyone know if the rear face of the 200tdi inlet manifold has enough thickness to be drilled and tapped?(Defender engine, not retrofitted Disco.) It seems the ideal location to install the plug.

Stick a pole in the ground, wait until its shadow is the same height as it is, then measure the shadow of the thing you're trying to measure...

Just mulling things over and I know it has been done to death, but I can't find an answer as to whether it would work. My aim, in the above, would be, with the engine not running, to have the starter battery connected only to things necessary for starting, while the auxilliary is connected to everything else. Everything I've seen on split charge and the like seems to have the relay between the batteries so, as far as I can make out, the radio, lights etc would still drain the starter battery as it's connected to all the vehicle's standard electrics via the back of the alternator. Have I completely misunderstood the principle/am I just being stupid? Also, have I managed to make some sort of monumental cock-up in the above diagram?

Funnily enough, Bridgestone Dueler, albeit, A/T are available from Asda Tyres for a sensible price including local fitting and I get a 10% discount as well. I think I've just had to alter my idea of sensible tyre prices. I imagine 10/15 years ago, 7.50s would have been ten a penny. For some reason I thought 'normal' tyres would be obtained for about half of my 255 KM2s and much more easily from a local tyre place. Obviously not! I suppose imperial sizes aren't very normal anymore... (I also appreciate I'm essentially trying to skimp on the only little bits of rubber that connect me to the road)

Cheers, right side of the country, but wrong end! I'm in Teesside.

Well, I do about 15 a year between 2 vehicles so 7/8000. I might just bite the bullet, re-mortgage and go for the XZLs.

Mild off road and about average mileage. A road-biased AT really. Road tyres would probably be suitable, but it's still a Land Rover and I'd like to be able to venture off tarmac without worrying too much...

Thanks for all your responses. Daan, no reservations, just my research seemed to suggest punctures left, right and centre with tubes in tubeless tyres. I'm currently running modulars with 235s on but I want to put a set of 5.5j wheels back on the 110 and take it back to pretty much how it came out the factory. One ton rims seem to be another thing priced prohibitively otherwise I'd just keep the 235s on. What 7.50s would people recommend then? (Preferably without straining my wallet too much)

I've spent a good few weeks trawling the web and ringing round local tyre places hunting a set of tubed 7.50s and nowhere seems to stock anything that isn't hideously expensive. Is that just how it is or am I missing some bargains anyone knows of? I'm after a road-biased AT and, short of having to drive across the country to fetch a set of mossy tyres with less than half the tread left on, nothing seems to be a decent price. Maybe I just need to accept the price of everything has gone up?

Right, so they should have a smaller offset than my modulars, but do the wolf copies have the same offset?