Sean.

Hi Steve, Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to know what these clapms are called? I'm looking at getting some jubilee clips, as well. I just try where I can keep things original and OEM. Sean

Hello, I've got a leak at one end of the fuel cooler on the TD5 2003. I've got the rubber gasket to replaxe it BS225. What I am having trouble with is how do I get the bracket off and back on again? The clip on the cooler, not the coolant pipe. I have the pipe clamp thing to get that off. Thanks

Hello all, Thank you for the replies. Managed to get it sorted. Used one jack near where the single bolt end goes into the axel, and tightened the nut on the bolt to get it to the right position. Then another car jack to raise the two bolt end up in to place A crow bar - (all I had) to push the metal middle bar in past the metal bracket. Just need to torque them up now. Next job, leaking fuel cooler gasket replacement

Thank you all for the replies. I'll get a podger from Screwfix / toolstation and have a go. I'm still a bit confused about how to use the ratchet straps, are these to keep the arm up in the air while I fiddle trying to line the first bolt hole up?🤔 It's one of those jobs that looked simple, but turned out so far to be hard work; well at least so far for me!

Hi Bowie, Thanks for the reply. Where would the straps be used? I've only taken one off for this reason ; ) I've got some Molykote 111, which helped. I've got the chassis end in, just struggling with the front end with the two bolts. When I lift it up, it just does not seem to go up and into place. I've had the jack under the chassis end of the chassis, near to where the radius arm is screwed in. What am I missing? Thanks

Hello, I've taken off and checked the front radius arm as it seemed to have play, with a view to get the bushed changed. Garaged checked and said all ok on that one. How to do I get the dam thing back on? I'm on a flat road, with a jack and axel stands. I can't seem to get the technique right to have it moved up and lined up. Any help or links to guides would be very good. Where do I need to jack it up, and place axel stands? Currently have the offside / passenger side one off. Thanks in advanced.

Hello, I am trying to get the part for a bolt that goes through earth cable into chassis, it's the battery negative to gear box part PRC6785. The bolt is about 10.5cm. Can't find what it is any help appriciated. Sean

I guess the whizzing about has taken it's toll. This only has 55k on it lol. An ex military one, so not known history.

Hello, Yes, they charged me for the bolt to remove a stuck sump plug. Which to be fair a business need to do. Again, I'm fine with paying the costs, as long as it's reasonable. I would expect the fluid, although didn't change it that long a go! Just better to get it all soted while it's off, spigot, release bearing. Did you go for a HD release bearing or the standard one? Yes, it is one of the reasons why I don't want to do it, as it's a weekend job, in this weather minus 5, and it's a hard work one.

Hello, Thak you for the replies. When you say a day, how many hours would it take a garage, as the one quote I've had seems high. Yes it's to replace the above while it is all off. So may explain the extra costs as its OEM Valeo, which I am fine with, as long as that's reasonable. Have been quoted £1,160. That's why I am looking thinking hang on that seems high, I've not done one myself and so don't know how long it should take a garage.

Hello, On a Defender TD5 2003, R380 gearbox. How much would you expect or have paid for a new; clutch, dual mass fly wheel, slave cylinder, spigot, and release bearing? How long does it take, I've read a person on their own a weekend or 12 hours. But for a decent Land Rover garage to do the work? Thanks Sean

I looked at that, and it seems to be one piece of glass, and a composite on either side. This sadly would not work, as it's not two sheets of glass put together

Thank you

Hello all, I'm looking for a source for the nut and bolts for the defender TD5 2003 to rebuild the dash. The dog got the cardboard withthe screws in and fubared that up. Now I need to put it back together. Part list / where it all goes is what I'm after. Thanks, Sean

Well, the sealey kit is not ideal as the plug has a torx screw connection and not the 13mm bolt on top. I will see if I can find another kit with the bolt type on top, and if this one even fits!

Perfect, I'll try the kit, and see how I get on. Will fit it, and then drain it all out again, to ensure any fragments / swarf are washed out by the oil. Given aluminium is not magnetic. Worst case is to get a new sump 😖.

It's the oil sump drain plug thread, and not a bolt secureing the pan to the engine block. Any brands for a new pan then, or would a second hand one of fleabay be ok?

Hello, I've had a very tight Defender TD5 2003 oil sump bolt removed by a garage, as it was wedged in. Tried all sorts, and they had to weld bolts on to get it off. Up shot is that it's leaking, I've taken it back and they have said bring it back, but it's time and fuel bringing it back over. I was looking to get an oversized oil sump bolt to replace it with. Helicoil I've heard mix things, and then when I come to change the oil next time I don't want to faffe about. I've read that the bolt is a M16, 16.5mm 1.5m thread, would the following Sealey set be the right thing to fix it with? Sealey VS617 Oil Drain Plug Thread Repair Set - M17

Hi Tyler, Thank you for the reply. I've managed to break one of the bullet proof glass windows, I know meant to be very strong, erm.... yeah. I found a thin metal chissel worked well, almost had it of and a bolt head fell down in the gap and was cracked against the screen. I need to look at the front windscreen next, see how I can get that out. I'm almost thinking of using the soldering iron to melt the plastic out, as it may be quicker. I'm not a fan of Facebook, and hardly ever use it, in fact getting all my contacts other details to delete it. Do you know of the left hand window part number? I'd like to get it replaced like for like. I know, should have come to the show, and took one of them, can't till it's MOT is sorted, and the windows need to be done for that. Thanks, Sean

Hello, That would be great. Any advice would be great. Regards, Sean

Hi supaimpy, Thanks for the reply. Do you know how to get the whole glass unit out, as it's separated ? I've removed all the bolts I can, and it looks like they are glued in as well with some type of compound. I don't want to break it, but I need to clean it for the MOT. Any other ideas or suggestions, e.g. heat gun to melt the glue / sealant? Sean

Hello, I'm after some advice on how to get the water out of the windscreen of a Snatch 2A. This is trapped between the reinforced glass, and the plastic thing on the inside. I've removed bolts to try and push the glass off / out, and that's not worked. The front windscreen and potentially side windows need to be cleaned. Any suggestions, or anyone done this before? Regards,, Sean

Hello, Might be worth getting a multi-meter should be about £15 ($20), and checking with everything off, to see if there is a leak occurring, both on the positive and negative wires. You could also check between the earth points, and battery earth terminal with jumper leads to see if there is any difference between the voltage, if there is clean them again. Given how warm it is, and dry should not be an earthing issue with salt that we'd get here or in a harsher climate. Sean

Hi Western, I've done that and know it's the dim light, when I pull those fuses that are a problem, they go out. This is why I am looking to replace the wiring, I just don't want to spend lots of time on it. As it's old and problematic, I am trying to either buy the complete loom for the headlights, all the way to the fuses, or find where I can buy the correct colour coded wire and I'll make a new section.

Thanks for the reply, I'll have a look at that. Would this still be the case, even when I take the keys out and nothing is on, and even disconnect the light switch stalks?