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90200tdi

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About 90200tdi

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  1. Right back to the start, did you put the return line into the tank as in did you make a new hole or use an old one? Check the pick up pipe to see if it has not picked up some foreign object, I have had a few problems with diesels and never had to remove the FIP. I had some problems in the past with fuel filters, you could try another one if you have one handy. Next step I would do is get a gallon can with some diesel in it and run a pipe from it to the lift pump and start it up and see what happens, if the problem persists its from the lift pump forward, if the problem goes away the problem is from the lift pump back. The gallon can will empty very quickly if you leave the return pipe in place connected to the engine/tank, if you want you can run a pipe into the gallon can from the return line on the engine. Usually a fuel or air problem will cause the engine revs to drop slightly before it cuts out, what's the air filter side of things like no one has stuck a rag in somewhere ! Hope this helps.
  2. Hi, Quick question 1982 RRC when the lights are turned on the flasher-horn-dip switch will not turn on the Main beams, it just stays on Dip beams. It will only put on the Main beams if you pull back on the stalk, like to flash the lights. So main beams work. Is there a relay hiding somewhere in the bowels of the dash for the main beams, or is the flasher-horn-dip switch fubar ?
  3. Hi, Quick question about the Gwyn Lewis or other twin alternator mounts on 300TDI, is the fan belt driven from the viscous fan pully or dose it take drive from the crankshaft pully ?
  4. As Rusty said all normal wear, nothing to worry about.
  5. So none of you have come across the counterfeit chinese " Timken bearings"
  6. Nope not the switch, oh Jesus lads sorry but this is long but i hope it helps someone sometime, At this point i should tell you that this is NOT my Landrover, the owner (new to Landrovers and has this 90 about 2 months) was put on to me by a friend because i have Landrovers and i might have an idea how to make the lights work. The owner rang me about a week ago that the lights dips/mains were not working and what could he do, i told him to check: 1. The fuses, 2. The switches and 3. The bulbs. The next phone call came 3-4 days after, and goes the LR "just stopped" it turns out the timing belt had broken. This is when i took over and i recovered it and replaced the timing belt, push rods etc and now its up and running again, It was time to tackle the electric's oh joy. Now the owner had tried to FIX the electrics himself !!! The inside looked like someone tried to hot wire it, plastic covers gone off the steering column and wires and switches hanging down, the cover gone of the fuse box you know the scene. The vehicle is a 1992 200TDI 90, and I was using a 1994 300TDI 110 as a reference. After a lot of tracing, multi-metering and reading LR wiring schematics heres what i found. 300TDI 110, had a relay box behind the binnacle, when disconnected parks worked but NO dims or headlights. 200TDI 90, had no relay behind binnacle, but when i fitted one NO dip/heads worked but did make an unhappy noise, so removed it. 300TDI 110, has 2 relays behind fusebox metal panel, No:1 is for wiper delay, No:2 is for the hazards, 200TDI 90, has 2 relays behind fusebox metal panel, No:1 is for wiper delay, No:2 is for the hazards. 300TDI 110, under the metal fuse panel there are 3 relay plug in bases, from Left to Right: 2 Yellow and 1 Green, there empty, 200TDI 90, under the metal fuse panel there are 3 relay plug in bases, from Left to Right: 2 Yellow and 1 Green, there empty. I HAD power coming into the Main Switch and going out both connections, 1. Parks, 2. main/dips but, I had NO power going into Indicator/Dip switch, but if i connected 12V here the Dip/Mains worked. I had to find where the power went from the Main Switch and why i had nothing coming back into indicator/dip switch ? This is where a lot of time was spent tracing wires, and if you thought the inside looked bad earlier you should see it now. RESULT It turns out there should be a relay fitted into the 2nd from the left Yellow relay base, this only allows the dips/mains to work when the ignition is turned on. WTF did its own relay go ? fu#k knows, a few questions will be asked. But the funny thing is and what threw me off a little, is all 3 relay bases looked the same ie: same dust/dirt on them, not like anything had been plugged into any of them. So was there a relay fitted or had someone in its past life removed it and bridged the connections with a piece of wire ? Moral of the story Landrover's are different, even if they came of the production line together they probably would be different !
  7. Nope only the 2 relays in there. Tried the power switch earlier, even removed and bridged connection with wire. Power out one connection parks come on, power out other connection nothing, so main switch seems to be ok. Next it seems is a multi meter and check power IN and power OUT of indicator/dip switch, if that's ok then fuses and connections then blubs ???
  8. @ western, behind the fusebox metal panel in front of the gear lever, there are only 2 relays: No:1 is for wiper delay, No:2 is for the hazards. Under the metal panel there are 3 yellow relay plug in bases, there empty. @ Landy'd Gentry, thats very interesting, which switch to be sure, is it the Main light switch (position 1 parks, position 2 dip/main) or the Indicator/headlamp switch ? I will have to do more checks tomorrow, i was getting cold and pi$$ed off so left it for the night.
  9. 2 relays behind fusebox metal panel, No:1 is for wiper delay, No:2 is for the hazards. I think this correct is it ? trying to remember, i will double check tomorrow.
  10. Hi, Its a 1992 200TDI 90, position 1 on main switch the parking/side lights work fine, but on position 2 on the main switch nothing, No dips or main beams but when you pull the stalk back to flash the lights the mains work. Main light switch checked with a multi-meter and working, Indicator/headlamp switch checked and working and all the fuses are ok Any ideas ? Is there a relay in the lighting circuit ? I seem to remember in an 1987 110 there was a relay or something in behind the binnacle ?
  11. Also check red plug on ECU for oil, had one doing the same it was oil in the loom. The wastgate in the manifold can seize up. Under the heat shield there's a rod and on one end there's the wastgate actuator, the other end is the wastgate (just a lever going into the manifold) you need to make sure this is free to move it will be hard to move but it should.
  12. First thing I would do is i'll look for another mate, what a load of POO. This is why LandRovers have such a bad name because of people like your mate who have not a f@#@#@g clue !!! Your 110 will happilly cruise at 70 mph with no problems.
  13. Hi, if its an early 110 it could have a 1.6 transfer box, later 110's and all 90's have 1.4 transfer boxes, and disco's have 1.2 ratio transfer boxes. If you have a 1.6 ratio you can change it for a 1.4 ratio and it should bring your revs down.
  14. Hi all, Hope you can help 2001 TD5 88,000 miles 110, won't pass 60 mph totally gutless and no get up and go. Here's what was done: head gasket, timing 100%, free up the wastgate, new fuel pump, new afm, new fuel regulator, all intake hoses removed and checked, full service after head gasket done, pluged into hawkeye no faults codes and on a run with hawkeye pluged in all ok and everything working as should be. Fuel pressure checked and its 4 bar at the engine. The only thing that was found was the revs would climb to around 2500rpm and go no futher with my foot flat on the floor and in any gear, but when not driving it would rev way above that. Unless i've missed something it looks like an electrical/ecu problem ??? Any ideas whats wrong with it ?
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