KrisDR

I had a VM 2.5 engine in a Jeep Cherokee. I treated it with velvet gloves just like mentioned above. The youngish guy who bought the car from me blew the engine up after 4000km, he didn't wear any velvet gloves.

Stephen nails it. Exactly my experience, to the letter almost As far as the new Defender is concerned, I like everything about it except its price. The discussion Here is almost copy/paste of the heated debate I participated in back in the day when Porsche decided to abandon the air cooled engine. I am, was actually, a long time air cooled driver but I can also accept that continuing with the old concept would have been suicide. I still love the smell and the noise of the old generation but I also realize that the new 911 is better in every aspect.

Thinking about taking 1500€ along 🤨. That's about as much as I want to spend. We'll see, exciting nevertheless.

Ok I'm convinced 😬. How much cash do I take along?

I have 3d RRC V8 and a 4d RRC 300TDI, they fulfil all my needs. So I thought until a friend of mine send me this picture this morning. They're standing beside a barn near his house. I not only want them but I need them, don't ask me what I will do with them though. Promised myself to not take cash with me when I knock on the farmer's door.

Call me silly but I want to keep the car original. I also have a softdash 300TDI from 95 which I might tune a bit.

After a year long RRC sabbatical I have picked-up things again. Finished the rear panels, covered them with the same vinyl which is practically identical to the one used at the factory. It seems a straightforward job but the corners are difficult. For me the key is to glue (spray glue 08080 from 3M) larger parts and let it dry before starting on the corners. It takes time but the result is pretty much ok.

Many thanks to all. I hadn't quite discussed the further proceedings with the mechanic but in the meantime I have a reply which is totally in line with the suggestions made here. I'm glad I didn't get carried away and ordered the set, I so like buying shiny bits.

Ok makes sense I guess but I'd hate having to get the engine out again any time soon afetr the work is done. The engine has done 200k km's and was mainly used in terrain and forest trails, a pretty hard life she had. Any idea on the specific tools which would be needed?

I'm handing over my 3.5 V8 to a trusted mechanic who is used to rebuild 911 engines but who agreed to take on rebuilding my RRC engine. I am considering getting the complete rebuild kit but am a bit unsure if this is actually a good deal. In addition I would like to find out whether he will need specific tools for rebuilding the V8. Thanks!

Any more thoughts on the subject?

What is the gold standard to do this? My guess is that they never received a good cleaning since leaving the factory in 89. Can the cloth be taken off and put in the washing machine? Powerwasher seems a bit too drastic but I'd love to hear from people with experience.

I don't have FB but I just might do it for the sake of joining the RRC restoration group.

It does sound like Russian roulette. I had read here and there that the shocks can be ok, I wasn’t prepared to take the gamble with the water pump. Tons of early faillure stories out there.

I've read quite some stories about the reliability of certain Britpart spares and the anxiety attacks some people seem to experience when they discovered that the spare parts they ordered came in a blue box. So far my experience is positive with spares ranging from bumper blades over shock absorbers to various plastic trim pieces. I know for sure that I would have paid 5 times the price for some of the door trim pieces I bought if the car was from a German brand. I will admit that I chickened out for brakes and a water pump but all the rest seems really fine and offered at a very competetive price. Which parts specifically are to be avoided?

I looked at buying one to replace our P38 but the GM automatic issues scared me away. That was quite a few years ago. Is there a decent fix nowadays?

I do apologize for the confusion but the pulleys I posted aren’t mine although I’m fairly sure they will look like that comes tomorrow.

I need a reality check as I believe I might be going overboard. My daughter just asked me which part I'm redoing (removing rust and respraying) and why I'm doing it. I was actually busy with the two fan pulleys (with a surprisng new cost of 160 quid for the pair) and I suddenly realised that nobody was ever going to see that part again. It doesn't make any difference really if I would leave it with some rust spots except that I would know. It reminded me of those miniature ship builders who spend hours of work on an interior part which will probably never be seen again. I have gone through the same process when I restored a 911 some 6 years ago, as a result the restoration lasted for 18 months. I usually don't like to take shortcuts but than again is leaving a pulley as it is a shortcut? Where have you drawn the line?

I'm toying with the idea to ship my 3.5 EFI ( 91 RRC two doors) to the UK to have it redone (12 k miles on the clock most must have been pretty rough it seems). There are a number of engine rebuilders here in the Low Lands but the knowledge and parts are I suppose more readily available. With Sterling a low value and Brexit around the corner this might be the good time to do it. Any pointers as to reputable companies or any other tips are more than welcome.

Strange that you have not received a single response. I found the following to be credible: ”There are two types of black coating used on panels:- 1) cheap black transport primer 2) anodic primer coating (a type of e-coat) You can test which you have on the panel by wiping with a cellulose thinners soaked rag, if lots of paint comes off, then you have 1) and the cheap primer needs to be removed, if none or a trace comes off then you have the decent anodised coating and you can just key the surface and start painting! This is why people sometimes "get away with it and sometimes don't".

A few picks with better light to show the new vinyl and the original vinyl (underneath)and the rear panels.

Almost done with making the door panels. As mentioned this does take a fair amount of time not in the least since I first did a test run with some leftovers. I decided to go with vinyl in the end. The search for a good match was long though. Quite a few of the retaining clips were broken and I had to order some 20 clips at one quid a piece 😱. Very happy with the result, I used 6mm staples and dedicated soft vinyl glue (Saba Sabacontact 70T). The rear panels will also be covered with the same vinyl but here I will first try to source good spray glue.

I have spoken to a few body shop folks in the meantime and all have agreed that in case of a Defender or RRC it makes sense to spray separately. The agreed that precautions have to be taken though. I guess hanging the panels in the sprayboot as if they were on the car would make total sense. I don’t see that there could be an issue like that. Even the roof access would be easier.

I found a thread on the use of these in the Defender forum but I am wondering if these (cheap) panels represent a good deal. At least one front wing on my RRC needs quite some rectifying and I am tempted to go the plastic route although it feels like heresy. Any input is appreciated.

Many thanks for the replies. I'll stick with the original idea to have them painted separately.