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Gremlin

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Everything posted by Gremlin

  1. Odd damage, as the swivels have a lot of clearance usually, at least on the stage 1 swivels. , Only the seal retainer is in that location. Coiler swivels are tight in that location. Grem
  2. How did that happen? They rotate together, or I am missing something. Mine have been in a couple of years now, and it's been fine. No issues, unless I dismantle and find hell. Mine is also on blue box CV's. Grem
  3. Maxi drive from down under, only people who made stage 1 v8 24 spline shafts off the shelf.
  4. Update, diff installed and shafts upgraded, plus new Cv's.
  5. Some pics of the whole thing, next stage will be the install Grem
  6. No idea, but my stub axle is larger diameter than standard items, as the shaft is also larger, hence the custom setup I guess. Grem
  7. No just changed the center. To me it looked ok on one side and so so on the other. Grem
  8. Diff assembled, any opinions on the pattern? Grem
  9. Hi All Time for me to ask the collective wisdom of this group. Going to install a 4 pin 24 spline center. Now am i right in assuming that if i do not disturb the pinion, all i need to do is re-adjust the backlash? Let me know if i am wrong.......... Cheers Grem
  10. Yes they did have old stock. You can read it all at Rear Disc Brakes.............the build............... - Series Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum Grem
  11. Hi Jamie Normal rotation on both the large hex nut and shaft bolt. I have no idea what the tread is but it should be metric Grem
  12. As far as i know the governor limit is different between disco 200 and defender 200, 4100rpm vs 3900rpm
  13. Update, probably the final one. Solenoid control box Bracket all fabbed up and painted Next up the box as received (its ment to go on low line winches). I opened it up to see the internal gubbins and quality. Its a Chinese thing and i had to change the cable to the motor as they were too short for my application In my view i saw that the crimped wires and terminals seemed weak, so i went out and upgraded the wiring from 25mm2 to 50mm2.......... thought it was simple, but unfortunately twice the wire size did not make the cables really flexible, so i had to be a little creative. So after a lot of twisting and head scratching i ended up having to relocate the terminals for the contactor via short copper bus bars, in order to retain the thicker cables. Installed a 2nd relay in the box to have in cab control over the contactor After more cursing for my decision to fit thicker cable i managed to fit and tighten the glands and close the lid! Finally i managed to get it fitted and wired to the motor (not without a fight) as again my choice of thicker cables made my life somewhat difficult. Routed the cables to my 2nd battery under the seat (no pics) and flipped the main switch and winch cab switch with my fingers crossed (that i do not melt anything!) So now its alive! all wired up and fully functional, Next and final post will be Synth Rope install picture. Overall the kit i got for the contactor with wiring is a good buy, it came with 2 remotes and a wanderlead which has a twist and lock action., all packed in a water proof box. Time will tell if it will be reliable for the occasional use it will see. Grem
  14. Brilliant Nick, if you are ever on the rock let me know. Short update, trimmed the front apron to hug the winch, now it looks finished. Also painted and finished the bracket to mount the control box, pics tomorrow........... Regards Grem
  15. Thanks, i have noticed that after i added back the spotlights the electric fan comes on more often, so they are probably hindering the airflow. Since i do not have long journeys on this little rock, so they will stay like that, the fan will keep up anyway. Next instalment will the the solenoid and related large gauge wiring. I was going to install it in the wing behind the lights, but its a headache to get to if it goes wrong for some reason, so its going in the front next to the winch, in a similar location of the originals. The solenoid kit (allbright clone) i got is mounted in a watertight box, so it should be ok. Anyway not much water round here. Grem
  16. Hi Everyone Time for a bunch of pics from my refurb and winch install onto my series 3. So i managed to bag a bargain off ebay, and this is how it arrived. So time for a strip down and see what it needed, as its had a hard life on the rear of a recovery truck from what i could find out. It was not in a such a bad shape, worn brushes, and lots of grime and neglect. I started off by ordering new brushes After some prep i had the whole thing painted in Grey, plus some new gaskets and plastic cover from the UK Got the commutator polished and started reassembly. Old VS New brushes. Fully assembled back to its glory Than it was time to start the Fabrication for a new bumper to accommodate the winch. I was lucky enough that the sale of winch had the winch plate included (had it blasted), so i incorporated that into my build. Now i wanted a specific style of bumper which was mounted higher than standard and looked more or less like what i had before ( standardish looking) . So went out and got some RHS........ and started mocking things up. To save on fab time i decided to use my old bumper as a doner for the chassis mounts (easier i thought at that time) and grafted them onto the RHS......... Next a quick check that it looked ok....... So i got some 3mm plate and doubled up the top and bottoms, tieing in the the old bumper mounts, its a lot of welding but the result was pretty pleasing. I then added some gussets at the old bumper mounts to make sure it will not go anywhere Than it was the light bars turn to be fitted, since i always liked the shape it was in, and its been on the vehicle trough the 3 bumpers i thought it was only appropriate that it gets reused. Its than off to the galvanizers for that series look............... So next was vehicle fitting............ i already had an extra X member right at the front at the dumb irons, so i added some more Gussets at the corners. And finally mounting the whole lot back onto the Landy.............. This is where i am the moment, next is wiring the winch up with an aftermarket winch control box. Than time for a new synth rope. Hope you all find it interesting, sorry for the long pic heavy post................ Regards Grem
  17. Ah husky colour (by accident) is now in tones of grey.................
  18. Last update before reassembly cleaned up commutator, and old vs new brushes
  19. Brushes in house..............
  20. Thanks guys, Just ordered a fresh set of brushes (https://www.al-electric.de/), as mine were quite worn, next i will lightly skim the commutator so it has a fresh face. Motor should be like new when done. Just need to deciede what colour to repaint the winch........ original red or black............. G
  21. Right some useful info for those who wish to keep thier Husky winch alive. The original motor is made by ISKRA - 11.216.273 AMJ4761 MAHLE Letrika (Iskra) DC motor A bit of history about Iskra, in 2012, the Slovenian auto electrical company Iskra Avtoelektrika changed its brand name to Letrika. There continuous product development earned the recognition of the profession. Letrika is a member of the MAHLE group since 2014 and use MAHLE Letrika brand name since 2015 and are now branded MAHLE. Specifications Voltage 12V Kilowatt 1.6kW Rotation from D/End CW/CCW C-C Mounts 90mm Mount Flange Diameter Case Mount ID 98mm Case OD 112mm Overall Length 227mm Case to End Shaft 60mm Shaft Outer Diameter 15mm Shaft Type MALE 20 SPLINE RPM 2800 Electrical Configuration F2/F1/A Ground NEGATIVE Operation Time F1/F2/A Weight (Kg) 6.7kg You can buy the brushes and other motor parts, although difficult they are available as these motors are run in all sort of configurations and applications. Pos. Letrika P/N MAHLE P/N Description 4 16.360.718 MMX 529 Armature 5 16.905.163 MMX 913 Bearing 7 16.908.017 MMX 739 Bolt 8 16.280.716 MMX 522 Stator 11 16.905.677 MMX 351 Set of brushes 13 16.908.018 MMX 941 Rear-end bracket 15 16.906.290 MMX 187 Protecting cover As regards to lubricants. Spur box is EP00 Grease, take your pick on the brand. Main box is 140SAE gear oil. Hope many will find this useful for maintenance Regards Grem
  22. Yes i will, no problem, but will buy locally. G
  23. Hi Western thanks again, in fact i will source the lubricants locally as its not worth having them sent over here. Just sent a mail to first four now we see their reply. G
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