Gremlin

Just one question, as i am noticing that the pads sit further out from the disc radially? Or is it just an illusion? As i had the same issue by 3mm no matter how much i tried i could never get the caliper to sit closer to the swivel, unless i got even more grinder happy! What happens if that is the case the pads will wear with a ridge making them rattle around a little, not really an issue but just so you know. I usually file this ridge down (3mm) when inspecting the pads every six months, uless it falls off alone.. G

Thumbs up mate, good job. G

Nice Colour..... G

Thats nice that some one is offering the brackets alone, i would have snapped them up in a jiffy when i was doing mine. Went trough some hassles to get mine right with the machinists! Well done sir, you will not regret the conversion! G

Just to add my 2c worth, i run 90 calipers on my 109 with a late 200tdi 110 master, no valve thingy anywhere. Stops fine with no funny handling. As to insurance problems i do understand your concerns, over here none of that is present. Hence i have been very reluctant to hand over any detailed stuff from my conversion, but my post is usally easy enough to see and copy. I also was going to get a batch of brackets made to sell, but i quickly scrapped the idea due to liability issues! which is a pity but anyway...............

You can have a look at my disc conversion, i run 15" rims and used rover items for the parts availability, non vented. Vented would have been nice, but solid discs seem to work pretty well in my case. G

Seen one at the ports here, many years ago. It had a 3.9 auto, but the 2 mid axles were both Salisbury's and they looked narrower than the ones seen here. But it had the wide avon treadlite tyres on. I remember i was fascinated by how it was cobbled up from land rover parts! I still like the idea, wonder if the suspension shortcomings could be improved. G

Thats not very good for the money one pays for a kit! A bit shocking to be honest. G

Errr........ its a bit far away for you....................Malta.............

Many small ones for a single PC are about 380w and run 12v, larger ones run 24 or 36v. Picked several small ones up (people just do not bother changing the battery and chuck them away!!) i also managed a couple of 24v ones 550w and 1000w (its big) and a 36v one (even bigger!) The down side is that they are bulky due to the mains transformer inside, otherwise they work perfectly. Some electronic guru might even find a way to eliminate the mains transformer and stuff the circuitry in a suitable enclosure, thus making the whole thing more compact and lighter. Food for thought............... G

Redneck invertor.....................go to your local recycling yard.................... Get a dead UPS, unhook the little battery and run a pair of leads to your car battery, de-solder or kill the bleeper and you have one free inverter, which doubles as a trickle charger to your battery if you hook it up to a mains supply! Its just a bit bulky, but works a treat and its free! G

Nige, here is a fork with another type of failure............ maybe something you could incorporate as a reinforcement during the welding process..... G

Here is my effort in fixing front end flex without going too extreme. Extended military chassis plus military shackles, and rear shock from an 88". Springs are standard with some leafs removed (i think i run 9 instead of 11) I also have 1 inch spacers under the bumpstops to avoid reverse arching the springs. You can see i have some good droop on the offside front (dont have a pic from that side) From the OP pics it seems you might have the Fronts slightly too stiff so it make the rears work more. G

I did it to mine no idea if it was a TD pump (all steel not ali), one bolt was a little different in position, just widen the hole with a drill and fit. The problem came form the pulley mounting flange, they were different, you will have to push the one off the tdi pump and onto the other pump, well thats what i did. Problem in my case of using such a pump was lack of availability of the tdi pump here in the past, and it was dirt cheap, changed back to the proper pump during my rebuild. I still dont know what pump it was, could be from a series for all i know! G

I just changed the pinion bearings on mine. Seem good till now 1 year down the line. Pulling the bearings off the carrier is going to be fun! Good luck! G

Thats how i run mine 1.003 TC and 4.7diffs, low is briliiant. I also know of an lt230 1.4 with maxidrive low gears installed + 1 piece center diff cross for sale, but its here in Malta. G

Thanks daan, thats how its going to end up. G

Time to bump this back up, i am still looking for a set of nuts for the BWA set, i now also have a set of Wolfrace alloys which need nuts!! They look like these. Any one has some handy?? G

You just found out what over geared means! the simplest would be to go back to 4.7 diffs, then fit the turbo back in. Or remove the overdrive Mine used to max out at around 85mph, with the series box 4.7 diffs and overdrive, and 31" tyres, but the noise was horrendous! G

Hmmmm...........lhd box in a rhd vehicle? Had that idea once, but took the traditional 4 bolt option instead. G

Ouch, pinion bearing gone, its the flange end that goes as phil said, usually from over tightening, or no oil! Replace the whole axle, and use The good wheel cylinders and brakes from the other as you said. Swap can be done in about a couple of hours if every nut and bolt can be undone nicely. Mine took about 3 hours from start to finish except for bleeding when i did the disc brake axle. G

Yes i know, and even fitted to a 90, sounds great but i doubt its a practical swap. I am all out for big engines, so don't get me wrong, but there are engines and engines, a truck engine is no real gain in my books. I was following another post elsewhere on the merc 6 pot diesel, pumping out lots of hp and still within reasonable and sensible weights. Down Here back in the 90's we had a boom of large jap diesel engines fitted to anything and everything, rd28 was favourite in land rovers, its revs like hell and goes like stink especially the turbo charged version, but boy it lacks low down torque. Toyota 3b engines were also plentiful especially in RR, but it was a case of the bigger the engine the more things tended to go wrong and get complex quickly. (a guy here also had a big york 6 pot in a range rover!) Tdi seems the simplest solution to me, without running into complex solutions for saving the drivetrain (although i managed to destroy several boxes + 1 overdrive with my tdi) Axles seem to handle the abuse from the tdi, so that should be less to think about. But as i usually say, if you throw enough money at something it will eventually work! so anything is possible! it will just come at a cost! G

Truck engine in a series!, what next? Axles will break like twigs, what box / transfer case?? LR boxes will die behind very torquey engines. Just put a 200/300 in G

I second phils comments, it happened to me and i just could not get the rears to adjust properly!! i finally found out what the issue was, i had fitted them wrongly! It took some time before i figured it out!(even blamed the parts guy!!) Its one thing i always used to check over and over to ensure i installed the right shoes on the right side on 109 rear brakes. In fact i find posts like this very strange as my 109 never gave me any grief with bleeding, even when swapping brake setups (and i changed a lot of setups!) My only grief was the constant (or bi monthly adjustments) to keep the pedal nice and firm. The rest was always good (besides the odd wheel snatching here and there) G

They will be fine, although mine are more or less work as a matched system, ie 90/110, as all brake components are land rover. I am very pleased with mine especially now that i did the rears as well, i was glad i did them myself as a concept, machining was done by others, but still an achievement! I am also happy my build has been an inspiration to others to follow. G