slightlee

Update...just in case this helps at least one person!............. took the front left wheel and brakes off again! moved the hub and had my finger on the sensor to see if it was seated right, as i was turning the hub i could feel the sensor hitting the teeth! I put an extra washer/seal in and did it up a bit looser than last time and made sure it didnt touch the teeth-fine. Chuck it back together and reverse out of the drive on tick over. went to pull away and the TC light came on as soon as i touched the throttle and it started to brake again until i took my foot off the throttle! not only on right hand turns like in the previous post but left turns and in a straight line! had to hobble home on tick over. Took it all apart again and tightened the sensor down further plus a little tap with a micro adjuster, made sure it still didnt touch the teeth , put back together for test run. Back to not being able to turn right again without the TC light and brakes coming on again! Sat and had a cup of tea in the car checking through the readings on the reader. head in hand! Only one code which i had not seen before...something about shuttle valve earth or ground, cant remember now. I read about the shuttle valve switches being another problematic area so i pulled the block out and up to give access underneath to the valves, take them off clean up and take a reading, i don't now what im doing with electrickery but i was getting 3.2v from the connector and the 2.2 when i pressed one of the valves down. because there was a difference i presumed that they were working, cleaned everything with contact cleaner and reinstalled. Test drive-no change. Took the front right wheel and brakes off again to check that sensor, it was not touching the teeth but when i took it off to inspect it, it had the rubber seal and an extra metal "spacer". i cant remember seeing that when i installed the sensor- in fact i don't recall taking the sensor out of the new hub when i installed it! anyway. took it out and replaced the sensor to normal tightness and back on with brakes and wheels. All fine..... no lights, no funny pump noises and no braking when it should not be...... So....check the height of the new sensors if you have just replaced them! One question, if someone is using the same reader as me. when the reader says front left hub sensor, does it mean left looking at the front of the car from outside or left if you are sat in the car looking forwards?

Hi New here and looking for help on what seems to be a past time for land rover owners! i will try not to make it to long winded......but it is, please bare with it. i had the 3 amigos about a year ago shortly after buying the discovery 2 , ignition off and on, it all cleared and that was that. About a month ago i was was getting fed up with a rumbling from the front and decided, time to change the bearings, found out that you cant do that and need the complete hubs, bought 2 and fitted the front right(looking from inside the car). No problems but still rumbling. Changed the front left hub, cured. While i was at it i put new pads in both sides. Now-the embarrassing bit!- i managed to get a pad in back to front! it didnt make any noise at first as i had covered the backs in copper slip but it got really really grindy and grounchy over the next few days! i thought i could make it untill i had some daylight at the weekend but could not stand it anymore so donned the head torch and headed out for a cold dark January night sat in the drive taking the wheel off to find it was in wrong, the disc was grooved and worn as was the pad! Obviously! when i changed the right hand one i also changed the sensor for the one that came with the new hub, however, thinking that i was not getting any problems with any lights i didn't bother changing the one on the left! chucked out the old hubs and one new sensor! WHY! i dont know, but the bin men took it away. It then drove fine,even bracking but got the 3 amigos up. I thought this is obviously where i had the old sensor on the left, so ordered a new one, went to put it on and found that it is different to the right, it goes through the engine bay into the cab under the glove box and was spliced into whatever its spliced into!. I decided that this was way to difficult so broke into the existing sensor wire in the engine bay area as its a lot more accessible. All the lights cleared on start up. Yipee....reversed out of the drive, turned and pulled away and the TC light came on the the brakes came on with some pumping/whiring noise. So, it drives fine in a straight line and no lights on the dash. Turn a left hand corner fine and no lights. Turn a right hand corner/roundabout and the TC light comes back on and the brakes go on stopping the car slowly. Unless i take my foot off the accelerator-then the brakes come off and i can coast into a straight line again. I have been driving around with the R10 fuse out, its fine to drive but lights are on the dash and i have an MOT in 2 weeks! so-everything i have read, people say get the codes read first. I bought an icarsoft930i reader from paddocks.seems pretty good to my untrained eye! The wheels are all at 1.7km when sat still which seems to be right. I have just been and put the fuse back in and plugged the reader straight in, this is what came up... DTC shown shuttle valve switch electrical failure. Pump failure 2 (pump not running when actuated). I clear the DTCs and drive around the block, i get these... manifold pressure circuit fault. logged low. inlet air temp fault.logged low. multiplexpressure curcuit fault. logged low. 1%reference voltage. fault logged low. driver demand fault.logged low ambient pressure circuit. fault logged low I dont think the above 6 have anything to do with my problem but i dont know! probably something for another day! when i try reading abs faults while driving around the block and the TC light comes on there are no DTCs! So, my next thing to try as it is free, is try re-seating the sensor in the hubs maybe without the rubber seal. recheck the hubs and wheels are nice and tight. i have made sure the tyres are the same pressure. i am tempted to start on the shuttle switch and pump failure but unsure what the electrical problem could be unless it is reading codes from when i had the R10 fuse out.. weird that it is only right hand turns! What would you try next????????