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RPiranha

Getting Comfortable
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Posts posted by RPiranha

  1. 3 hours ago, Snagger said:

    See how it goes.  Just be mindful that parabolics tend to lift the vehicle an inch or two, so if it is currently sitting level, then replacing the front will raise that end and have an odd appearance.  You’ll need to adjust the headlights, but there shouldn’t be any major issues beyond that.

    If you are only hanging one end because of budget constraints, then it may be better to fit HD parabolics to the back end first to avoid that strange look.  You’d end up with a high tail, a bit like late Defender utilities.

    I'll be adding 1 ton shackles in the rear to account for the lift. The change in pinion angle should also help with my slight gearbox/pinion misalignment on the rear axle. Most likely I'll end up with paras in the back some day, but it's an extra $1000 NZD for the rears and my budget at the moment just can't justify it. 

  2. Thanks for the advice guys

    Think I'll just order fronts and if it turns out to be an issue I'll bite the bullet and buy a set of rears as well. Not going to be carrying lots of weight the whole time but it is a lwb flatdeck ute (pickup) living on a farm so its likely to be loaded up a bit. Not as much as its previous life as a fencing truck though, the cracked tray mounts and chassis said that it may have carried a fair bit more than its payload at times!

     

  3. I'm thinking of running front parabolics while keeping the rear springs standard with extended shackles. I want to keep the rear springs standard for a few reasons, load carrying ability being one of them as well as parabolics being quite expensive to ship to the other side of the world (NZ), so shipping only two springs will keep the costs down considerably.  Does anyone have any experience of mixing paras and normal springs? I'm just wondering if there's any adverse handling effects that I haven't thought of.

    Cheers

  4. 2 hours ago, Gazzar said:

    There's an adapter fitting you fit to bring the size down. Same pipe size throughout.

    Piston closest to pedal box goes to the front, cross over after the PDWA on mine. 

    IMG_20211217_180910.jpg

    IMG_20211217_181402.jpg

    Just the info I needed, thanks.

  5. While I’m rebuilding my 63 series 2a Ute I’ve decided to upgrade to boosted dual line brakes. I’ve done all the brake pipes but I’m a bit stuck on the master cylinder unions. Firstly, does the bigger union go to the front or back? And does it use a larger line as well? The brake lines I’ve made are 3/16 pipe. Also does anyone know the specs of the larger union? I’ve had a hard time finding one locally (NZ). 
    Cheers

    FB599FF9-1639-4EDB-9ED3-8D9F99DEC346.jpeg

  6. The wipers on my 200tdi disco have stopped parking and working on intermittent. I'm thinking its the park switch.

    Does anyone know if the park switch is replaceable separately or do I need a new motor assembly. I think the 200tdi motor is different to a 300tdi because all the ones i've seen online are for 94-99. Might be the same as a RRC?

    Any help appreciated

     

  7. I've got a 94 200tdi Discovery that has a leaking screen. Does anyone have the part number for the windscreen seal? I seem to remember that later D1s have a different seal and i'm not sure if the ones i'm seeing online are the right ones. The photo is the seal thats currently in there.

    Cheers

    184357054_1102859730195637_2957104912148844890_n.jpg

  8. I'm currently rebuilding my series 2a and i'm starting to sort out the wiring. It has a Holden 173 in it, a common conversion in these parts. I was wondering if I can delete the voltage regulator box on the bulkhead as it has an alternator instead of the original dynamo. I have always understood that the alternators have a sort of internal regulator so it is not needed.

  9. @Chicken Drumstick I'll probably just use a 3.9 out of a discovery but convert to carbs and maybe put a cam in it. Ideally once I have enough funds etc I really want a 4.6 or even a 4.4 out of a leyland p76 (aussie and nz model). Somewhere around 225-250hp which is roughly what a stock 4.6 puts out I think. A series box wouldn't be too keen on 4 times the original power going through it but by the sounds of it a LT95 might be up to it. I want to do the hard work now so when I come to maybe upgrading the engine I don't have worry about the gearbox. Also, surely the rear axle would never stand up to that sort of power so the logical option is full time 4wd so the power is split. Therefore the LT95 is a good option. I would just use a stage one front axle which are pretty easy to find here due to all the ex army trucks. 

    As for the parabolics how are the rocky mountain springs? I've heard very mixed opinions on them. They also seem a bit pricey compared to other makes although they do come as kits with shocks. 

    Thats a nice series you've got there. I'm pretty interested in your power steering setup. How hard is it and does it get rid of some of the series steering play? 

  10. Hi all first time poster here!

    Planning on putting my 69 series 2a back on the road and I want to put a rover v8 in it. I am also keen on a LT95 box because i've heard that they're strong and I don't want to be constantly afraid of the series box blowing up when I plant my foot! I want to keep the standard look. I would use a 101 layshaft and bell housing to shorten the assembly 4". I also want parabolics which would lift the car a bit and make the rear prop angles even worse which I think is my main problem. Its going to be used a fair bit offroad so I don't want binding UJs. 

    Basically, will this set up work in an 88"? My other options are using a stage one front end but I'm not set on the look, or use the series box. 

    Cheers

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