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About roamingyak

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  1. roamingyak

    Defender to WA159806 ?

    Appreciate if somebody could help me with the following please. Going to order some front and rear Koni shocks from Paddocks.... On their menu system they have shocks for A. Defender to WA159806 B. Defender from XA159807 I have a 1991 200 TDI, however: 1. Front axle is from a TD5 2. Rear axle is from a 300TDI (has disc brakes etc) So do I order from option A, B or one from each as I don't understand the cut off's for those chassis numbers relating to 200TDi, 300TDI, TD5, Puma etc?! TIA 😉 https://www.paddockspares.com/off-road/suspension/koni-dampers.html
  2. roamingyak

    Brake wire issue

    OK, thanks all, brilliantly bodged until next week when the rear chassis is being replaced and all of the wiring replaced with new end points and led lights etc rather than the birds next it currently is 😉
  3. roamingyak

    Brake wire issue

    Oh, 200 TDI btw, used to be a exMOD 2.5 n/a, most things changed over to civilian spec over time
  4. roamingyak

    Brake wire issue

    I'd greatly appreciate some sense checking please.... 🙂 Coming down in Brazzaville, Congo about 9 years ago the brake fuse blew every time I pressed the brake. Seemed the wire through the chassis was shorting. So my mechanic mate ran a wire from the brake servo, into the dash firewall and straight down the inside of the landy and plugged it in there to a standard LR 3 way splitter and the brakes have worked ever since. If for any reason I accidentally cut that wire (as I did doing internal remodelling for example) the brakes didn't work until I fixed it. Finally today I decided to replace it ( I have the dash out etc) and it took a very angry and frustrating hour to run some wire into some cable protect and thread it along the top of the chassis and around/through all of the extras I have under there (rear wing fuel tank was really in the way). On the brake servo side of the new wire I added an inline fuse and put in a 10amp fuse. At the back the grey rubber wire connector/splitter (grey rubber thing with 3 bullet female connecters on each end) was tired and the connectors were a bit loose, so I replaced it and carefully replicated what was plugged into where. Other than the fuse and the new wire splitter its exactly the same as the old one... Of course it didn't work, no break lights ;-( I checked all of the connections and they seemed fine.... I used thicker cable could that be a problem? I assume the cable should go to the fuse box, fuse, and then another cable down into the rear wiring harness? Any thoughts appreciated 😉
  5. roamingyak

    Defender dash

    Easy to follow video here btw...
  6. roamingyak

    Defender dash

    Funnily enough just stripped mine out yesterday. Are you in Zim? Do you need a heater at all? If not, you could... 1. Leave the drivers dash and steering wheel as it it, not worth the hassle to move for a few inches, easy to fix things then, resale value....... etc 2. Strip out as in the above picture, but also strip out the heater box in the engine bay, then mount the windscreen wiper motor (thing on the left of the photo) from inside the cab in its place. Then you have a saved about a foot of space from the door to the steering dash unit.. Send us some pictures with what you do...
  7. roamingyak

    Replacement for a NATO hitch on a Defender

    Thanks for the suggestion, but I have a (Aluminium) Safety Devices fuel tank guard, and suspect it would get in the way, or at least the edges of it would chaff if pulling on an angle...?
  8. roamingyak

    Replacement for a NATO hitch on a Defender

    This one also seems popular, made by Britpart I believe? https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover-swivel-shackle-recovery-eye-bolt-on-db1322/
  9. roamingyak

    Replacement for a NATO hitch on a Defender

    Another on here, I'm spoilt for choice 😉 https://www.sahara4x4.com/b2c/producto/RA01247/2/rear-swivel-ring-gold-style-for-land-rover-defender What is the advantage of having a shackle through a metal rod (as below) as opposed to a pin or just a solid loop as per the examples above?
  10. roamingyak

    Replacement for a NATO hitch on a Defender

    Thanks Martin (Motorhead!), looks ok, but 4 bolts would be better than two. Western, definitely not with the groin whacking ball in such a protruding position (and I don't have any use for the ball...) Thanks!
  11. Any suggestions for something lighter/smaller than a NATO hitch when you just want to recover/pull things rather than tow a trailer from the back of a Defender please? I'm replacing the rear chassis cross member so seems a good idea to save some weight and hopefully knock myself in the groin less with its replacement!
  12. roamingyak

    Fuel lines filters & Sedimenter 90/110

    Note: The sedimenter on mine (exMOD 2.5n/a, now a 200TDI) next to the fuel tank will clog up with black mould/gel over a long period, so worth pulling it apart every few 5 years and cleaning it out etc. I've seen some that were completely full and blocking the diesel flow, that takes many years usually... Example here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diesel-choke.295501/
  13. roamingyak

    Painting a galvanised chassis?

    Hi, What is the optimal way to paint a galvanised chassis (black) - in this case just the rear cross member? As in what are the best products to use, number of coats of each etc (I'm booked into having it done next month and keen to question how it will be done forearmed with some knowledge 😉
  14. roamingyak

    Koni - Heavy Raid or Standard?

    Back to the original question 😉 (as I'm buying Koni regardless 🙂 ) Are the larger Heavy Tracks ones worth changing to?
  15. Koni have the 'normal' Track Raid shocks that I've always used and had very good milage and value from over the last 14 years in a few sets, even if they have doubled in price without changing. It's now time to proactively change them out again, and wondering if the larger and more expensive 'Heavy Track Raid' offer any benefits? Vehicle is a 1991 Defender Hard Top with expedition equipment used for long trips in Africa LR Heavy Duty Springs, 130 helper springs at the back. Dual koni shocks at rear. Single Koni shocks at front No ARB's fitted Advantages I can see: - do away with dual shocks at the rear. - carry less spares as less likely to fail? Review here for those who are interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoNQibuDnEg

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