roamingyak

It's in a different continent to where I am 🙂

I have a removable sunroof in my 1991 hardtop and would like to know if I could remove the middle seat and stand in that space and film with my head and arms out of the sunroof etc? Could somebody with a Defender kindly measure between the cab roof and the floor panel under the middle seat please? (ie: Remove the middle seat, from the back of area straight up to the roof, the biggest distance)

OK, please ignore, we got it sorted out. For some reason you can't delete your own posts on here!?!?!

My friend has a 300tdi and asked me the following, I have no idea, but I know one of you clever people will?! Do you know what this part on the engine is, offhand? These holes where the arrow is pointing are threaded and I'm trying to find out what thread it is - metric, imperial, size, etc. But for the life of me can't find it on lrcat. I've tried with m10 but they don't go in "naturally". I don't want to force it and then strip the thread. (I'm trying to mount a condenser radiator and fan for the air con. Need to fabricate a frame).

Thanks for the replies everybody - greatly appreciated!! 🙂 I'll send a few enquires and see what the options are from those provided. Heartening to hear that fixed up the existing axle is a solid option as well, and maybe much cheaper (hurrah!) I bought an apparently sold axle housing off the main Landy bloke in Botswana, but can get my money back on it if need be. Cheers, Darrin https://www.youtube.com/@roamingyak

Yes, that was my simple take on it - the weld in adding the bump stop creates a weak point to stress bend/crack it. Metal fatigue after 25 odd years and pot holes/sudden bumps etc etc all take their toll....

First time was with a good German mechanic, I use him for most things and as he said "I've welded up loads of axles, mostly on Toyotas" We took off the axle, drained the oil, cleaned and prepped it well (apparently, I have no clue, I'd use chewing gum 😜) including slightly filing the edges and welded up/down the crack, slowly so it didn't get too hot and bend it etc. Second time is as you see in Botswana, the local bloke who fixes everything in his backyard, no need to drain the oil apparently, quick clean with a toothbrush, left to right welding and lots of it. So I don't trust the casing is the issue really... how cracked inside is it? I spend months in the bush alone so need things to be risk free as much as possible 😉 I started my 3 years 112,000km trip around Africa with a winch. I went to use it after 2 years to remove a tree that was blocking the road, and it didn't work. Sold it. When I have been stuck, I find there is usually nothing to winch from. And please correct my ignorance, but aren't ground anchors always baulky and heavy? The combined weight of the winch and anchors would be quite a lot? For context, in 7 years of driving I've probably been hopeless stuck about 6-7 times. Stuck in total about 30 times? Digging, high lift and the waffle boards usually do the trick. Though I've now added an exhaust jack to my arsenal and found it excellent, if unusable when tipping over would be an issue.

Thanks a lot for the considered reply. I forgot to add I have found a good axle casing to replace my old one with and somebody who can replace the diff professionally - they do all of the diff's, gearbox and transfer boxes in Namibia (British trained etc) and have the cleanest workshop in Africa 😉 Allow me to ask a dumb basic question: If a LSD or locker 'fail' do they explode into pieces and stop the diff/axle rotating any more than the Salisbury would? I can remove the prop shaft and half shafts and still drive in 2WD? "replace the diff for capability, but not out of concern over reliability or ruggedness" Key question for me then- how much more capability would either a LSD or Locker give me, and in what circumstances? Appreciate it can only be a rough stab in the dark percentage - but I'm guessing it doesn't add up to be worth it considering the increased price and reduction in bullet proofness of the Salisbury?

Everybody makes mistakes when driving all day in those conditions, checking each 20 metre long puddle would mean you'd be there until 2087 🤣 😉 The few times I have got stuck in about 400,000km in Africa is usually when I'm exhausted (ie: 1 coke for breakfast, no lunch, 11 hours of driving, 38 degrees, humid etc) and make a mistake... it's part of the deal, we are human, not driving robots 🙂 Nope, they are Goodyear Wranglers AT's. Good tyres, but in the clay and black cotton soils of Africa all tyres becomes slicks quite quickly I find. They work better when you're not grounded and there is something to get traction from obviously 🙂 Good point about oils thanks - need to stick to Castrol EP90 in all axles and diffs so I only need to carry one set of spare oil for them.

Mud and water - swamp and bogs etc. Normally a problem when the axle/chassis grounds. Sand is usually ok, I now have an exhaust jack which is brilliant - at the rear I have a flat tank guard bolted to the chassis so it works really well... But water logged quicksand is a big problem. But best not to get stuck at all if possible...

Hi Everybody, I'm well out of my knowledge zone here, so thanks in advance for your patience! In short, I need to replace my rear Salisbury axle, as the casing has cracked twice now. The diff has been fine - 400,000km in Africa and no problems at all 😉 Given I need to replace it, and getting the existing diff swapped over to a new casing will be problematic, buying a completely refurbed Salisbury axle might make sense. The Salisbury is considered extremely reliable I understand? Certainly my experience. But before I replace like for like, is it worth looking at any of the Limited Slip Differentials and would they be equally bullet proof? Reliability is everything. https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product-category/limited-slip-differentials/ I do get stuck a lot 😉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXH0Y8Qxsro Cheers, Darrin

Hi all, My rear axle casing cracked, I had it welded up, did another 3 months in Africa, but it cracked again. Welded again super strong bushman style, but defiantly keen to replace it now. My Landy is a 1991 200TDI, but it has a 300TDI rear axle with discs (2006 TD5 axle on front). Does anybody supply refurbished Salisbury axles please? Might be easier to ship a complete one down here, quality and time wise at least... Cheers, Darrin https://www.youtube.com/@roamingyak

Glad others benefitted as well 😉

Hi all, Is there a (quality) repair/service kit for a 200TDi alternator please? And can an average idiot like me take it apart and replace the bits inside easily enough? Cheers!

Yes.

Thanks, I emailed Koni and got very prompt and informative replies. But was surprised when they said they’d never been asked what setting to adjust them too! They suggested some different models to the standard fare that Paddocks etc sell, I’ll post later…

Ok, awesome, simple and easy to understand And the huge big bolt into the engine is some crazy nm like 330? We will need to make a plan for that one…..?

yeah, they hardly work on any landies, so they don’t have it, and the mechanics can’t read or write very well… plus everything is done in a hurry, so looking things up in books when you can just tighten it nicely yourself isn't appreciated. So better I have them listed ready to tell them as they put them back in… ( I need to take control of the situation and tell them exactly what to do)

I have an expedition 1991 hardtop 110. It’s mostly fully loaded to 70%-90% of vehicle capacity. I have HD LR springs at the front and rear, plus 130 helper springs at the rear. I’ve always used Koni shocks, normal ones, with dual shocks fitted at the rear in front of the axle. I replaced all 6 three years ago, done about 100k since in Africa, about 60% off-road. Today I tested the rear and 3 out of 4 are finished. This made me wonder which of the 3 Koni settings I should set them to for optimal long life, soft, medium, harder. Any words of wisdom from anyone on here please?

I’ve taken the front cover off my 200TDI to fix a coolant leak and helicoil the bolt threads where they have disappeared and the bolts won’t tighten. Im with a competent mechanic, but they will just do all of the bolts up tightly unless I give them the torque settings for each bolt when we put it back together. Is there a handy picture or two showing each bolt and it’s torque setting, or anything useful please?

Top radiator connection, and then each of the engine connections. I will try some better photos in the sun tomorrow…

High mounted 11L

No, everything looks normal and fits properly to my idiot eye. I’ll post some pictures, that might help!

Thanks, my engine was originally a n/a, then a used 200TDI, then a ‘new’ Turners 200TDI, so who knows when those two pipes were put in on that journey lol I was with a very competent Landy mechanic today, but the hoses into the engine were stuck, and were twisting the pipe when trying to get them out… so we didn’t actually get them out and check, but he was confident they were o ring on that end (male piece on cooler pipe going into female piece of the engine as he put it). Could we have gotten that wrong? Are there adapters we could buy?

Thanks everybody, to confirm, I have: O Ring at engine end Cone at Radiator end So any idea what part numbers I should order please?