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Posts posted by burn_e
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IIRC, it means 'if I recall'
You forgot the "c" with stands for "Correctly"
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That's what a fuel gauge is for
Yep!
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If you start asking you might be wrong situated in the V8 world, just fill up when the tank is empty. Otherwise you will discover the loonacy and go loco over it...
My only concern is always the range you get out of the car...and this is hard to determine when offroad
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if the top hose splits water pours over the distributor and shuts down the engine before it can overheat - now wasn't that a clever design!!
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Move the complete bumper the 2 cm forward. there should be sufficient material on the bumper brackets to widen the screw hole a bit.
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I have one for you. Don't know where you are but let me know if you are in UAE
If you are not around - feel free to copy if you like it.
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We have here a 1990 RRC 3.9i GCC spec (low tech, no code display)
Have no Owners manual to read what this means.
We are talking here about the light with the exclamation mark and yellow/amber colour.
Had the same light before and disconnecting the battery solved the issue for a while, but now its back...
The light came up again a few times and I just reset all by diconnecting the negative on the battery.
BTW this model is not equipped with traction control or cats (therefore no o2 sensors)!
today something new came up - the light got on while driving.
what would be your next guess to check?
So guys put the thinking caps on and help me with this!
For a start:
Which sensors are checked from the ECU at the start process?
Which sensors play a role after a while driving?
Why I am asking - after reseting the car the light comes up while driving and moderate throttle. Tried also reving the engine stationary and it didnt came up.
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I would get your radiator sorted. Sound for me like its shot. Get it recored and all is good again.
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Some inspiration from the Gulf:
http://www.me4x4.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=2371&highlight=awafi
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There are some Swiss army surplus distributers. One is in Chur. They might be helpful to guide you regarding the infos you need. You should be able to find them googling.
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Military RRC - interesting!
Do you have some pics or more info on this? Which engine, suspension, interior details...?
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Forgot to mention, that when I said "where I come from" I was referring to Germany. Here in UAE as civil person you are not even allowed to have a car in camouflage paint - not thinking about a massive gun (even replica) mounted on it.
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Can you actually drive around town with a huuuuge machine gun (replica?) planted on top of your car???
Where I come from this would trigger a police operation of unseen magnitude!
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If its cooler when moving it might be that there is a restriction on either the condeser or radiater. Might be worth having a look. I'm also assuming you have 2 x electric pusher fans that are running when the air con is on?
You are right look at the most obvious first. Condenser and rad is cleaned and the fans are there and working.
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But then there is A/C & there is A/C. A friend of mine rented a car in the states a good few years ago & when he put the A/C on full blast he thought it had misted the 'screen. When he went to wipe it he found it was icing up! Yanks 1 LR 0
Ahhh, enough cold air to create condensation on the screen would be enough!
It seems that especially the RRC and the older Defenders with the plugged-on A/C fail to deal with the climate. Later models with the integrated A/c work pretty well (RRC 95 and Discos).
I think +3Celcius at the A/c outlets is not realistic in the temperatures here. Checked on my Nissan Patrol and it had 10Celcius. With the RRC I get 10 - 12 while driving and 17-18 while idling.
Insider might recall that the Nissans Patrols and the Toyota Landcruiser are the benchmark for decent A/c in this climate.
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I've only ever had one RRC (a '93) with A/C & was so disappointed with it's funtions that I didn't bother when buying each of the three classics I've had since. I'd rather have a sun-roof & save 42kg of dead weight.
Wouldnt work here in the Gulf. Your doesnt need brakes, but for sure AC!
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There should be some uprated AC for hot climate. But don't know details.
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Situation: RRC and hot environment (UAE - yesterdays temps 42C and 80% humidity) .
Have a question: How do you deal with the weak AC in the RRC? Did you make modifications on it?
- The system is converted to R134a and honestly it sucks. I ensured that everthing is in working order but the stock AC seems to have its limitations.
- Followed already the advice to close all gaps around the ducts so the the cold air cant escape into the dash.
- the windows are tinted all around and I have put an isolation layer between roof and headliner.
One of my ideas is to install bigger AC aux fans to increase the air flow through the condenser. this should bring some improvement while idling (traffic lights etc.)
But otherwise I am dealing even with the idea of a swap with a system of Toyota or Nissan to push the performance.
Any input is appreciated.
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Hi, I have koni heavy track raid fitted to my 90. Have them for three years and love them. My mate has ome's and compared to these the koni's are
alot beefier. They have more oil in them so won't overheat as quick as others. If you have to use them in a heavy vehicle on bad roads I would buy them.
However for use on tarmac, play sites in England/Europe I would use normal heavy tracks or OME's wich are similar. You also have the ability to adjust them.
Time consuming, you have to unbolt the shock but you can personalise them a bit.
Use the KONI HEAVY TRACK (softest setting) in combination with Kings HD Springs. Great stuff.
Use them for street, gravel and dunes here in UAE. never got disapointed.
Planning to try the next stiffer setup soon. Just because since I fixed a roof tent and I want to be on the safer side to avoid a roll...
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Anyone ever installed hood vents to let the hot air out of the engine compartment?
How was the effect: good - bad - no difference?
Would appreciate some picture of the same for some inspiration.
Thanks
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here comes the solution...
After a couple of trails and errors (checking endless cables for cracks, put in another MAF, replacing the starter etc),
the ground lead (from battery to frame) was full of filth and when hot the impendance went up in the sky...therefore current reaching the starter not strong enough.
Got it today in cooperation with a very talented car electrician identified and solved. Additional we added a ground cable which connects the engine with negative lead from the battery.
Little thing big issue!
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Had a chat with a buddy here regarding my starting issue.
He pointed me in the direction of the MAF. He said when they go bad the become delicate for heat...
Your opinions on this please !
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you sure it's not a defender
...i wish it was
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OK well in that case it is probably running a 14CUX alarm system and maybe a 2 button alarm. If the answer to both those is "yes" (especially the alarm bit) then the spider post linked to above is relevant.
This is a defefinate NO for both of them...
GCC spec means low tech...the most advanced pieces are the ECU and the digital clock.
rear spring for RRC ???
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Get yourself police spec springs. they have about 3 times the load capacity and yet good ride comfort.
Plus the give you a little lift which levels the car.