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Dan D90

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  1. Dan D90

    TD5 remap

    Thumbs up for Mike at Dynachip, he chiped & mapped my ECU today. Top bloke, did a great job can, not recomend him enough. Thanks Dan
  2. Have you checked if the fuel filter is tight enough, maybe the air is getting in there since it has been recnetly channged?
  3. Does it do the same with a full tank? I remember reading that for some reason similar starting problems can occur when the fuel gets low, something about the pump sucking air out of the tank? Might be worth filling it up just to check. Dose it start better when facing up or down hill, when I had my issue it was a lot harder to start when facing up hill !?? Have you checked for fuel in the oil as I believe this will occur if you have a cracked head? Maybe bypass the fuel filter with some long pipe to rule out any issues there or add some clear pipe in the system to see where the air is coming from? Sorry for the non-technical advice, maybe it will help find the problem without spending money, I wish I had taken mine to a defender expert rather than my local mechanic, as lot of money was wasted changing parts that were not causing the issue.
  4. Dan D90

    TD5 remap

    Thanks, I will try them both. ALl the best
  5. Dan D90

    TD5 remap

    I’m pretty sure my Frankenstein defender td5 is running a discovery fuel map, temp gauge works backwards and its very jerky at low speed. It’s a 10p engine with a non-flash ECU. 90% of my driving is around 10-30mph so I’m getting tired of the poor performance and have decided to take a punt on a replacement ECU. I know that my current ECU can be chipped but i would prefer to keep it as a backup just encase things do not go to plan! I’m looking to buy a NNN000120. Most of the ones for sale are from the discovery 15p engine so I will need to get it remapped. Does anyone on here offer a remapping service or can recommend anyone in the Warwickshire region? Thanks Dan
  6. Did you make sure the non return value is in the correct place when you changed your fule filter head? There is conflicting infomation on the net IMO as to where the air blead value and non return valve should go, some say the non return is not needed at all. I had a very similar issue to you, air blead value was blocked and someone had put the non return value in the wrong pipe, this mean that air in the system could not get out thus the pump working overtime and a lot of cranking to get it started. Once the non return value was move to the correct pipe she started fine. Like you i change the pump, injector seals, loom etc etc I hope you have the same problem as its an 5 mins fix!
  7. Air bleed value in the filter head? might be shot or in the wrong place. This cuased simialr issues for me, might be worth changing it for the sake of £10 !
  8. It's defo creeping between the glass and the seal, I can see the seepage through the glass, its also dripping around the middle of the door. I have already sealed the corners with DumDum so no problem there. I will wait for it to rain and takes some pictures...
  9. It has taken a while but I have finally tracked down and fixed every leak in the defender except one! When it rains quite heavily, I get quite a lot of water running in between the door window glass and the outer seal: The seals look to be in good order, however still leak, I swapped them out for news one hoping to cure the issue, however if anything it seems to have gotten worse. It’s the same for both doors. Have I just purchased carp seals or aim I missing something? The water is definitely creeping between the glass and the seal as I can see it, has anyone else had this issue, perhaps this is one of these cases where only a genuine part will do? Thx Dan
  10. If this is really for your lad then have you checked the insurance? Insurance quotes were around £3k for my 18 y/o! Like you i am new to defenders, however I think getting something that needs a lot of work to get it on the road for your first defender is a bad idea. if you do all the work yourself then you might break even cost wise by the time it is finished, if you/ your lad do not lose interest by then. Maybe have a think about how much you want to spend in total, as Fridge said that £1500 could turn into £5k+ very quickly. Better to get one with a MOT, something like this would be better IMO: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-90-200-TDI/233218954441?hash=item364ceed4c9:g:GrMAAOSwktJc0E9I At least you can enjoy it while you are spending money on it! I have easily spent over £2k on my just fixing lots of small things and if your lad is going to be driving it you will want to make sure everything is working perfectly or you wont sleep at night.
  11. Update ! Fitted the air bleed vale and non return as Sleaze stated above and the issue is now reoslved ! Im also shoocked at what a diffrence it has made to the drive . She is now a much smother drive at low speed / revs. Thanks for all the help
  12. I’m defo going to put the air new air bleed valve into the connection highlighted by the red arrow. I believe its purpose is to let air out of the system and back to the tank, logically it would not do that anywhere else. However, where to refit the orange non return valve? I’m guessing in either positions 2 (blue) or 3 (orange) below, it would not interfere with the travel of fuel in either of these places:
  13. I had a couple of minutes today so I decided to take the pipes of the filter housing to see what we have. Not quite what I expected! The pipe closest to the chassis has nothing it in & the pipe closest to the road had a none return rubber nipple: I was expecting to see the air bleed valve where the rubber non-return is. Are these the wrong way around and I am missing the air bleed valve? The workshop manual does not seem to mention the rubber non-return nipple. Does anyone know for 100% which pipe the rubber nipple should go in? I would swap it around and test but I'm worried I might do some major damage! Please help!
  14. Hi Freak, I have read this in my search for a cure, it seems logical to me also, I think I will just buy one and change it given the cost. Thanks, Dan
  15. I have an annoying problem with my TD5 defender. It has developed a starting issue after changing the injector loom, fuel filter and fuel filter housing (broken bold bracket). The loom was changed due to the usual oil contamination to the ECU. Prior to the change it started first time every time. After the change it would start fine cold but after 20 mins of driving it would randomly cut out or fail to start after the engine was turned off. Every time this occurred it would start again normally if I left it overnight. My garage was convinced it was a bad fuel pump so it was changed along with the injector seals. It now no longer cuts out while driving, however the problem when restarting still persists!. I can start it in the morning first time, after driving around 10 miles, turning the engine off for 10 minutes and starting it again it will take a lot of turning over before it still slowly fires back up again, when it dose judger back to life quite a bit of white smoke is produced. Sometimes it will restart and run for a couple of seconds before cutting out, then I’m back to cranking it again with the accelerator to the floor. Once its running again all seems normal. If I stop and start the engine after short runs this issue occurs 80% of the time. Since the defender is a bit of a Frankenstein (disco td5 and ECU) my mechanic does not seem to think the readings from the ECU can be trusted. It is going back to them next week but it is starting to feel like I’m just changing parts and not fixing the issue. Why would it start first time cold then struggle to restart? Any advice on what might be causing the issue or a recommendation of a defender specialist on the Warwickshire area would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan
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