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Dan D90

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About Dan D90

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    warwickshire

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  1. Dan D90

    Problems starting when warm (TD5)

    Update ! Fitted the air bleed vale and non return as Sleaze stated above and the issue is now reoslved ! Im also shoocked at what a diffrence it has made to the drive . She is now a much smother drive at low speed / revs. Thanks for all the help
  2. Dan D90

    Problems starting when warm (TD5)

    I’m defo going to put the air new air bleed valve into the connection highlighted by the red arrow. I believe its purpose is to let air out of the system and back to the tank, logically it would not do that anywhere else. However, where to refit the orange non return valve? I’m guessing in either positions 2 (blue) or 3 (orange) below, it would not interfere with the travel of fuel in either of these places:
  3. Dan D90

    Problems starting when warm (TD5)

    I had a couple of minutes today so I decided to take the pipes of the filter housing to see what we have. Not quite what I expected! The pipe closest to the chassis has nothing it in & the pipe closest to the road had a none return rubber nipple: I was expecting to see the air bleed valve where the rubber non-return is. Are these the wrong way around and I am missing the air bleed valve? The workshop manual does not seem to mention the rubber non-return nipple. Does anyone know for 100% which pipe the rubber nipple should go in? I would swap it around and test but I'm worried I might do some major damage! Please help!
  4. Dan D90

    Problems starting when warm (TD5)

    Hi Freak, I have read this in my search for a cure, it seems logical to me also, I think I will just buy one and change it given the cost. Thanks, Dan
  5. I have an annoying problem with my TD5 defender. It has developed a starting issue after changing the injector loom, fuel filter and fuel filter housing (broken bold bracket). The loom was changed due to the usual oil contamination to the ECU. Prior to the change it started first time every time. After the change it would start fine cold but after 20 mins of driving it would randomly cut out or fail to start after the engine was turned off. Every time this occurred it would start again normally if I left it overnight. My garage was convinced it was a bad fuel pump so it was changed along with the injector seals. It now no longer cuts out while driving, however the problem when restarting still persists!. I can start it in the morning first time, after driving around 10 miles, turning the engine off for 10 minutes and starting it again it will take a lot of turning over before it still slowly fires back up again, when it dose judger back to life quite a bit of white smoke is produced. Sometimes it will restart and run for a couple of seconds before cutting out, then I’m back to cranking it again with the accelerator to the floor. Once its running again all seems normal. If I stop and start the engine after short runs this issue occurs 80% of the time. Since the defender is a bit of a Frankenstein (disco td5 and ECU) my mechanic does not seem to think the readings from the ECU can be trusted. It is going back to them next week but it is starting to feel like I’m just changing parts and not fixing the issue. Why would it start first time cold then struggle to restart? Any advice on what might be causing the issue or a recommendation of a defender specialist on the Warwickshire area would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan
  6. Dan D90

    Securing lights !

    Hey Steve, They did not get much use, the truck is used off road 95% of the time and hardly ever at night. when they were on I was happy with the output, nice and bright good coverage. They were fitted when i purchased it, Given their price tag I will be replacing them with something cheaper due to the lack of use and how easy they are to remove! In fact i am now reluctant to add anything to the truck that cannot be wielded on!
  7. Dan D90

    Securing lights !

    Thanks for the replies, all advice is much apricated. Since the main suspect is a local defender owner I'm not going to report back with what I plan to do. I naively thought my location would make this kind of thing very unlikely, however, it seems there are scrots lurking everywhere! Thanks again
  8. Dan D90

    Securing lights !

    I woke this morning to find some B*startds has stolen all the lights off my defender (WIPAC LEDS). My dog must have spooked them as they left one of the headlights hangning! I live it a sleeply village so i am abit shocked this has happened, although given how easy the lights are to remove i should have expected them to disapear. I have a suspect who i will bee keeping an eye on ! I would be intrested to know what people do to secure thier lights? I was planning on just drilling out the end of the screws to slow them down long enought for me to open the door ans set the dog on them fllowed up by and introduction to MR Baseball bat. Any better ideas?
  9. Unless you are going to do the work yourself, (which I guess you’re not otherwise you would be able to answer this question yourself) surely it would make more sense just to find one that was in good shape? Or is the truck yours and you are trying to work out its value? Personally I would not even entertain buying it as I would have to pay someone to replace the bulkhead. There is probably also lots more rust that you have not seen yet, rotten doors and corrosion on the body mountings etc. I would guess a bulkhead would cost in the region of £1,000.00?. Finger in the air with regards to fitting! Probably another £1000 if you are paying someone. Lets imagine the truck with no rust is worth £4500?? To entertain buying it you would want to get it for less than £2000 IMO, even then you would have to be looking for a project! I would guess most people looking for a defender would not be interested in this at all. But that’s just my opinion. If you are looking to buy it and this is your first defender i would advise you not to bother, look for someting with no rot and an MOT, rotten bulkhead and chassis are the ones you want to walk away from. Dan
  10. Dan D90

    Electrical problem

    not sure if this is correct,just grabed it via google !
  11. Dan D90

    Electrical problem

    Are all the indicators working OK? I had a similar problem recently, it turned out to be a bad indicator connection (rear). After swapping the indicator and rewiring with the OEM plug all worked normally. Before discovering this I replaced the flasher relay and hazard switch, neither resolved the issue thus why i checked the wiring, strange that is caused the hazard switch not work work but it did.
  12. Dan D90

    Leak into footwell

    Local windscreen fitter quoted me £90 to refit with a new seal + additional sealant, he says he has done a few defenders and if you don’t bother sealing them they very often leak! Tempted to swap the screen for a heated one while it is out!
  13. Dan D90

    Leak into footwell

    Mine leaks mainly via the windscreen too and finds its way into the footwell. Even thou the seal looks as good as new, sealant during installation seems to be the best option. It looks like it gets in anywhere/everywhere and then just runs to the lowest point, I have checked all around the seal on mine and I can see water all in every place I looked, just peel back the seal and take a look, if you see water then it's getting in: My door seal also used to leak, like V8 Freak said, its a bad fit around the kink, in my case the rubber seal was not a very tight fit, probably due to being removed and put back on a few times. A new seal plus a bit of dumdum fixed this issue: On the picture below the red lines indicate where the water comes from on mine, there is a channel the length of the dashboard which the windscreen seal sits above, water collects in here and builds up until it runs out of one end into the footwell, also under this there is another channel where it runs to from a leaking vent (i have this too a small degree also). I hope to be leak free one day
  14. Dan D90

    No Hazards or immobiliser!

    10AS is back up and running now, it was the central locking motor as I suspected, it seems it is getting covered in water, it looks like the water is seeping along the wires to a point where they join with bullet connectors. Waterproof connectors should resolve this. However, my indicators/Hazards are still dead. I can hear & feel the relay click when the indicators are activated but nothing happens. However, when I arm the immobiliser all indicators work fine. With this in mind is it the relay or the switch? The switch does look a little worse for wear. thanks Dan
  15. Dan D90

    No Hazards or immobiliser!

    Thanks Guys, it is the 15A fuse under the drivers seat box that has blown, its the one for the 10AS. I replaced it but it failed again right away. The only think i can think of that might be causing it is water in one of the central locking motors, i will disconnect them and try again when i have some more fuses
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