paime
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Posts posted by paime
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I have a recall notice as well for my 90 TD5! I'll be watching this with interest.
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Hi folks,
Replaced the idle pulley tonight as the old one was screaming at me. The new one came with a copper washer but the old one didn't seem to have one. Does anyone know where it should go? I'm thinking between the pulley and the mounting point but then I'm not sure how to keep it centred when I put it all together.
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Sounds like expensive heater toys are a bit unnecessary based on the responses! Must get mine into shape over the summer before I freeze in winter again but thought the expensive box might be a shortcut to success. At the price they're asking it needs to be phenomenal before the spend makes any sense though.
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Has anyone tried this?
It looks quite pricey but promises double the output in a neat looking box. They also do AC upgrades but they're even more spendy!
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The headlight stalks are always failing so best to start there. You can take them apart and check the contacts are clean and the springs are all intact. They're annoyingly expensive to replace unfortunately!
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Will the grinder foul on the bottom of the spring seat? Looks quite tight to me and I reckon cutting the ball at the neck might be easier.
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On 12/28/2022 at 8:58 PM, muddy said:
Good evening I have just purchased a well abused 4.4 that I would think several back street garages and internet experts have meddled with, if someone could take a picture of the fan shroud where the wiring comes through and of the rough area around the air box where said wiring should be clipped I would be most grateful.
Also if you could take a picture of the interior mirror and sensor? That sits below it I would also be very grateful.
Before anyone says so I have joined the fullfat forum but so many of the threads have little conclusion and the search can be quite fruitless.. ( been tracking down a secondary turbo boost valve fault most of the day)
Will.
I'm happy to take some pics of my engine bay and send them through but I haven't tinkered under the bonnet yet so not quite sure where you need them taken. Post an image from Google of the engine bay with the bits circled and I'll take some snaps.
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Hello,
I have a 2011 TDV8 which has recently developed a strange noise. I've had it into the garage and they suspect it's the transfer box but couldn't pin it down. It's entirely road speed dependent and doesn't get any worse or better when it's under load or freewheeling. The garage changed the transfer box oil and but that hasn't really helped. They also checked all wheel bearings and had a look at the brakes but all seemed fine. I've attached an audio recording from today. Any thoughts as to what it might be? It's driving me nuts!
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Never worked with an engine that needs it's oil sucked out before! Does that mean it's a relatively easy job to change oil and filters if you don't have to crawl under it to get the sump plugs off?
Had a bit of a concerning rattle when under heavy acceleration today. I'm hoping it's a heat shield.
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Here she is! Still really enjoying driving something so smooth on my daily commute although I have to admit I'm a bit worried it's going to explode at any moment.
Is a full fluid change including gearbox and transfer something that can be done on the drive? I've had a good poke about for rust and haven't found anything too drastic yet. A bit of very slight surface corrosion on the rear arches that'll be worth sorting before it causes a problem but otherwise it seems fairly straight. It's had new brake pads and all new brake lines as well. The rear window washers appear to be blocked so I'll need to sort that and and the front heated window doesn't work in places. Other than that I can't find any issues but I've got a 3 month warranty with it so was going to book her into a garage for a proper checkup to be sure.
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Hello again!
After much deliberation I managed to buy a 2011 TDV8 the other day. It's like driving a sofa sitting on treacle - an absolute peach of an experience. It's a high miler at 150k but full service history and fairly clean MOTs so hopefully it'll last a while before I need to do anything serious. Is there any preventative work i should do immediately? It had it's fluid and filters changed before I bought it.
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Those bolts were stuck solid on mine as well. I had to use a large cold chisel with some brute force and ignorance to get mine moving. Your only other option is to cut the bolt off at the seat box side but there's a risk you could manage things so best be careful.
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What @Anderzandersaid really - prepare yourself for scope creep on an industrial scale. I ended up painting bits like trailing arms and the A bars because they looked a bit tired and it all took a lot longer than I'd hoped as a result. Otherwise, panel gap alignment is a nightmare if you're lifting the body as a single piece. If I had the space I would definitely strip everything back to the bulkhead then reassemble on the new chassis piece by piece but when I did mine that wasn't really possible. My sodding doors still don't shut properly!!
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Ok so it's not so cheap but I couldn't find another thread to put it on. I'm sure I've read about these things somewhere:
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Just looked up the 2012s and the prices are a bit of a stretch for me to justify to the missus. A sub £10k example is what I was thinking might be achievable given what's on autotrader.
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My brain tells me sub £10k vehicles shouldn't come with sat nav, heated steering wheels and electric seats but yet there are plenty of RRs for sale who prove me wrong.
As an average mechanic but shocking (geddit??) electrician I'm also worried how much work I could do myself versus how much I'd have to get the garage to do. Are they known for electrical gremlins?
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Hi folks,
As much as I love my defender, a longer commute looms and I'm finding myself looking at circa 2006 TDV8s, primarily for comfort. I'm used to the daft defender prices but these RRs seem cheap - too cheap. Is a 70-90k mileage vehicle a sensible choice for a daily 45 miles each way or do these vehicles now prefer the quieter life like my defender?
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Shouldn't be any issue with fitting the fold up steps. The steps bolt on to the same bolts the seat box uses which are set back from the sliders.
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Was there not a cleaning service that Ed China was promoting as well? I think it was maybe done with everything in situ but I can't remember for the life of me what it was called or whether it was as thorough as walnut shell blasting.
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You can also use the inner wing bulkhead mounts and run a couple of strops through them onto a spreader bar which runs over the top of the wings. Anything on the bulkhead and rear tub really. Word of warning, you're going to get some movement in the body and there's not much you can do about it. Panel alignment afterwards is a nightmare.
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On 2/23/2022 at 5:20 PM, PolarBlair said:
Bambi's mums face is my crumple zone.
New tattoo idea?
Re COTAG, do they not not also ask for Advanced Driver training? I fancied joining a while ago but was put off by their requirements.
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On 2/23/2022 at 4:05 PM, Mossberg said:
Hi Paime, how is your caliper repair holding up? I have just managed to strip mine when refitting the caliper, so I will have to do the same as you. My caliper bolts are imperial but I will use the metric ones on the repair as I don't think an insert will be available in the imperial size.
Thanks for your.
Mick
Everything is holding up fine (touch wood!) so far and I've probably covered about 8,000 miles since i did the repair
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I'm not sure why anyone would go to the effort of notching the chassis and deleting lights etc only to make such an ar*e of the paint job. The brake fluid reservoir is all green. It's crazy.
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The overspray in the engine bay is...interesting...
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90 Rear Trim
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Does anyone know if you can buy pre-cut rear carpet trim for defenders? I'd like some for the roof and side panels and don't want to fork out for the full plastic trim.