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Posts posted by 2a-Egg

  1. 25 minutes ago, Dorsetfreelander said:

    Might help if you told us what sort of car it is but for a start have you checked the battery voltage?

    Sorry was a ranty annoyed first post.. Uts an 61plate fl2 standard specs. no satnav etc. 

    Dash not lighting up fuel gauge not springing in to life. Radio comes on. Eco button lights up. But no attempt to start at all

  2. Morning all


    Was out in the car yesterday, parjed up on drive last night, come to move it off the drive this morning ready for a delivery, key in, radio came on, dash showed nothing. Put the clutch down, pressed the button and jusy a humming sound, nothing else. Ideas welcome. My head is thinking starter motor or battery not enough charge.. 

  3. @jessejazza my top cap on the rocker goes into the air pipe and into the carb. The zenith would of had a separate inlet for the second pipe. So at present its just sat in the engine bay and not alot comes outbor goes into it.. Joys of newer carbs not having the ports the old ones did 

  4. I have a late s2a, the engine has a weber 34 ich carb fitted, the pipe from the oil fill pipe goes nowhere. Just ends next to the carb with a bit of hose on the end, not capped. Guessing this would of gone into a solex at some point. 

    Is this something i need to worry about? The fact it does not join to anything. I have the breather from rocker cover to air filter. 

  5. On 12/31/2019 at 12:39 PM, lo-fi said:

    I'd put money on it, then. Easy job, just requires a beefy soldering iron sometimes. Don't forget to clean up the commutator too

    Dropping into a mates garage with it next week to fix it up. 

  6. 3 hours ago, lo-fi said:

    It's likely brushes worn to nothing and not making contact. Pop them out and measure up, you'll find a new set fairly easily. 

    This is what I'm hoping as it's been a bit intermitant recently 

  7. 1 hour ago, steve b said:

    I think the motor is very similar to the one used on the series 3 blower unit iirc , you could try taking it off and soaking it in a tub of brake cleaner ?


    Steve b

    The motor turns freely. And I was getting a spark when touching the battery then nothing. 

    Will have to chat to my mate who's an electrician and see where it's falling over 

  8. Anyone know where I can find a round fan motor, that's won't cost me £100. Unsure if the bushes or barings have  gone, had to give the whole unit a tap to get the fan spinning, now I'm getting nothing, have taken it off the truck to check, worst case its a new motor needed 

  9. 5 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

    Excellent, think I got the gold star 😛

    Haha yeah okay you get it... And well now, the brake pedal flew to the floor, its not been driven for a few months whilst I have been working on bits. So guessing air has got in as the level is still full. Will have to bleed to find the culprit corner.. The fun never stops ha

  10. Right so I've had a good few hours today on the truck. And I have sorted a few bits that were not working, and sorted the points issue. The issue was the points were slightly bent and touching the base of the dizzy so shorting it all out and.. 

    • Thanks 1

  11. 2 hours ago, lo-fi said:

    If that fails, it's back to basics... 

    Check you got the coil polarity and connections correct. 

    Test the coil resistances. Specs will be available in the book or from the manufacturer. 

    Disconnect the coil from the dizzy, check that the contact breakers do indeed break and make connection as the dizzy is spun. Connect the meter from B- to the wire that usually goes to the coil and run it in continuity mode may be easiest understood. It should read a dead short when the points are closed and infinite once opened. Spin the engine over by hand for this test. 

    Check continuity on the master connection on the cap. 

    I'm sure it's something simple! 


    It started when it had the other points and condenser in, so it's there that it's gone wrong. Either new parts don't work or I've shorted it somehow. 

  12. Had the dash out this morning to check connection to ignition, all fine but noticed the fuel guage and wipers weren't getting power. So re seated fuses and they came back to life. But still don't seem to be getting a spark. Next is to put the old condenser back in as the one supplied is made by ****part. 

  13. 1 hour ago, David Sparkes said:

    Does this help?(IE I do not know if it shows your type of (later) distributor).


    Courtesy of the Series 2 Club Technical Gallery.


    Mines later points. Not got the screw like this 

  14. 6 minutes ago, Blanco said:

    Its been a while since I had the 2a but I did once put the condenser lead on top of the plastic spacer/washer, it doesn't work well that way! 

    Unsure I even saw a plastic spacer whe taking off/putting new on. It's a later dizzy I think as it just slides between a metal clasp not screw on to points

  15. 35 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    So it was working until you fitted the last bits?

    Correct. It's been running rough but started up. So I renewed the points and condenser, and now it just turns over and no spark. I need to properly look at it. Could be something I have done. That is the most likely cause.. Me haha

  16. 46 minutes ago, jessejazza said:

    I don't mean this unkindly in any way but as you have written.... you thought it would be wise to renew these items in one go. BUT check and replace individually as you go - with the exceptions (if she was ok before); leads and plugs. Component quality is suspect these days.

    My bets are on a dud coil or condensor

    have changed leads and plugs a few months back then I did the coil, then the rotor arm and now the points and condenser. So not all at once, just listed out what has been changed. 

    So I'm thinking the brit part condenser could be a culprit. Or it's going to be user error and I've done something simple wrong. 


    New coil is lucas ( just read your first comment through) will have to check it all again tomorrow when it's not raining. Got rained off a few times today 

  17. 1 minute ago, steve b said:

    That all looks ok , later type so the insulator is between the spring and the base of the points . I'd try the old coil to start with



    Steve b

    Have had both on. Unless the new one I've put the +- the wrong way round like a fool. Or the points are positioned wrong.. 

  18. 30 minutes ago, neilc said:

    What is it actually doing, clicking?  , trying to start ? , The fuses wont cause the problem , are leads on in correct order ? I imagine it's the condenser or points , use the old trick I use to set them with a piece of very thin paper , the points should barely touch , is there a vacuum advance , if so was it put back on ?

    Turns over but no bang. 

  19. 5 minutes ago, steve b said:

    The correct way to set points is with the heel of the moving section on the peak of one of the four cam lobes and set the gap to 0.015" using the right feeler gauge .

    Have you got the insulator seated correctly for the condenser lead and coil lead ? Is the coil connected +ve/sw to ignition and -ve/cb to the distributor ? Also check the ign. supply is live ....you did put the rotor arm on?  Easy to forget as most of us can testify I would imagine :)



    Steve b

    Haha yeah all connected even the arm. What does the insulator look like / where does it sit? Is that the lead from dizzy to condenser?  It turns over. Just not getting spark. Had plug out to check and no spark. 

  20. Right so I have chanhed







    And now no spark, so no brum brum... I've also now snapped a spark plug when undoing it. The car started absolutely fine before I changes the points and condenser. Also I replaced some switches on the dash before I did the condenser etc so could I of knocked a cable of blown a fuse. 

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