2a-Egg
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Posts posted by 2a-Egg
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Right so I have chanhed
Coil
Leads
Points
Condenser
Plugs
And now no spark, so no brum brum... I've also now snapped a spark plug when undoing it. The car started absolutely fine before I changes the points and condenser. Also I replaced some switches on the dash before I did the condenser etc so could I of knocked a cable of blown a fuse.
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43 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
2a-Egg - I'm sending you a pm
Cheers, have sent message on
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9 hours ago, 2a-Egg said:
Ahhh I missed placed the or lol..
It's a series, that's the way right.... Spluttering fuel eaters
I can't edit the post so have done in the quote.. Damn phone keyboard and fat thumbs...
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19 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
I meant both!
Ahhh I kissed placed the or lol..
It's a series, that's the way right.... Spluttering fuel eaters
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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
You mean not running properly or efficiently?
Fair play
Both hahaha
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
More like 20 actually
Best two things I ever did to a 2.25 was to fit electronic ignition, and fit a 1.75" HIF SU -completely different animal.
But I like the original feel, which is my downfall haha
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2 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Where in Somerset are you - PM me if you feel the need for secrecy
I'm On Sedgemoor and Bowie is in the Vale of Avalon... I'm happy to help if needs be - although you are running the Devil's fuel
We have a superb welder/fabricator in the village who's only 20 quid an hour and there's a chap over by Keinton Mandeville who's pretty damn good with 2.25 lumps (although he's off to sandy places for a couple of years in January)
I am based near the super mare of weston...
Would be grateful of any help, I'm unsure if the float on carb is stuck down or just needs adjusting, but it's very rich at idle.
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New tank bought, not fitted yet, fuel filter and pump fitted.
Speaking to a mate today who is a mechanic and he thinks it's the carb float. I've rebuilt the carb and I think that maybe the underlying issue. Will have to take the carb off and see what's going on. Think at idle to much fuel is getting in..
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
It could be saved then maybe - a specialist company might be able to acid dip it , then a good coat of tank liner paint inside . With the price of a new tank to consider there is some room to renovate .
Steve b
Might just replace it, then I know its solid atleast
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8 minutes ago, steve b said:
Pretty surprised the tank is not leaking , you could always pop the pick up pipe out and put a push on pick up filter on it , then just leave the tank 'til it starts leaking ?
Steve b
When I've been under the truck the tank seems and sounds solid.. Currently it's ¾ full too so can't take the sender out and torch it to see how bad it maybe.. I do think it got left empty for a few years so if it got condensation in it then its going to be a bad thing.
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10 minutes ago, steve b said:
That's a lot of rust , I think you are right about the tank!
The sediment bowl did it's job.
cheers
Steve b
Yeah definitely did its job... And until I replace tank it would just fill again...
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Ooooo Crud... In every sense of the word..
Took fuel pump off and found a full bowl, of crud with about 2cm of fuel in it..
Put the new one on and can see what looks like little bits of rust. So yay looks like I need a new fuel tank now.. Slowly working my way around the issues haha
Photos are back to front though for some reason
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On 10/7/2019 at 2:16 PM, fearofweapons said:
So quick update....
Once I investigated properly I found that the fuel sender unit was not fastened down properly - it had a good 2mm+ 'float' up and down and was missing a screw; that may have been the main culprit. I have replaced all the seals leading into the tank and replaced the screws as the heads were a little chewed. After a test drive the smell of petrol is much reduced. Hurrah! 😀
Let's hope by now the smell had gone..
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New fuel pump bought ready to go on.. I will find the cause of this stupid stutter Hahaha
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On 9/20/2019 at 8:22 AM, Blanco said:
My looked pristine too, crack only showed when warm....
Hmmm.
It's started and spluttered to a halt on Thursday evening. The thing is just here to test my patience I think. Its probably me who has created the situation, rebuilding the carb, giving it all new shiny parts.. Its got overwhelmed..
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1 hour ago, Blanco said:
Yep in the distributor......
Cap off, looks brand new everything... Got the earth of starter motor and its cleaned up and a good connection now. Old coil put back on, I'm gonna go head bang a wall now hahaha
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6 hours ago, Blanco said:
This business of starting lovely and then giving trouble reminds me of my 2A, turned out the rotor arm had a crack, worked brilliantly until warm and then intermittantly 'leaked'. Worth checking?
In the dizzy?
Think I'm still having to go round and replace as I find issue haha fix one thing break two others
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7 hours ago, steve b said:
The coil should be marked on the 12v side + or sw (to live supply) and - or cb (to distributor).
I'm naturally inclined to wariness with new "classic electrical" stuff just because .. chuck the old coil on and try it again in similar circumstances .
I'm still not convinced that the float needle valve in the carb. is working properly all the time , did it chug and smoke before cutting out ?
Steve b
It Could be the carb as I did overhaul it, but Sunday it drove fine everytime I started it up. And yes it splutters when at idle when it's doing what I described above.
28 minutes ago, lo-fi said:Have you been through all the earthing points, removed, cleaned and checked? Particularly the engine/gearbox to chassis strap. Sounds as if the starter current is arcing through a bad connection and causing it to get oxidised, which then affects all sorts of other things (like the coil). It would explain the intermittent nature of the problem and why it'll run fine, then all go south after restart.
I will have to check all earth straps then. Not done so yet.
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Omg my truck needs a slap. Started up this evening beautiful, got to the farm turned off, did a few bits in yard, loaded the tub and started again, idle was awful, charge light on dash fading in and out, but drove lovely, stopped to open a gate, idle por then cut out, started it up idle poop shut gate it cut out.. Then each Time I started up again it was poor idle. I have recently changed coil a D ht leads. Could I just have bad leads / coil. I've got battery out and going to give it a good charge incase its low.
Just seem to go forward then back more currently
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So the second image, I got a hammer and chisel to it to see if it was just rust. It's solid, and mean I didn't even make an impression on it. Solid metal lump. Who does that!!!!!
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2 hours ago, lo-fi said:
You can't call a whole chassis shot just because of one bad repair... The individual in question is an idiot (the same kind of idiot that would make a "repair" like that) and worth no further time.
If in doubt, get under with a small hammer, and go round everywhere tapping gently. If it rings, you're good. If it thuds crustily and holes appear, you'll soon see. If it's passed an MOT recently, it really can't be too bad!
I'm not too far away (Berkshire). You're welcome to drop by for a brew and a chat if you don't mind a bit of a trip or you're passing. I don't tend to head down that way often, sadly.
I've been under it as the oil is self lubricating the chassis. There is a hole in the front fuel tank out rigger, but everything else seems solid, but definitely need to do a proper check all round. most areas are still red paint. So not come through that if rusted
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Would anyone looking at the photos of these hangers thi k the whole chassis needs replacing? Another forum I am on has a motoring section and one user has said that the chassis is shot and I should buy new. I've not had a chance to look at the whole thing but other areas are solid..
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7 hours ago, lo-fi said:
The spring hangers are available (I have some on the shelf), so not to worry if you end up hacking it off with the grinder and going through them.
Where are you based?
I'm in the south west. Somerset
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36 minutes ago, steve b said:
Ah I can see the bolts now , what a completely stupid thing to do . Do you know any fabricators/mechanics/agri engineers that could remove that ? Gas axe/plasma cutter or 9" grinder come to mind . Very likely the front spring mount plates will end up getting notched too but not hard to put back .
There looks to be some welding required on the driver side too ?
Is the bumper lower plate welded to the dumb iron too ? sort of looks like it .
Steve b
Going to have to ask around. What a complete nightmare and bodge of a job by someone previous to me owning the vehicle..
Arrggh no spark
in Series Forum
Posted
Haha yeah all connected even the arm. What does the insulator look like / where does it sit? Is that the lead from dizzy to condenser? It turns over. Just not getting spark. Had plug out to check and no spark.