2a-Egg
-
Posts
271 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by 2a-Egg
-
-
Couple of silly little jobs today. The grill had been painted black, so I've put it back to silver as I did not like black, didn't look right, also sanded back the rear chassis and lift handles and resprayed. Looking to take the seat box off in the week
-
2
-
-
It's non stop now, winch is on the worktop for a clean up and fresh seal. And have new rear tailgate hinges as the old are fudged and who ever had it previously didn't do a good repair.
-
On 7/15/2019 at 10:42 AM, 2a-Egg said:
I just don't have the space to do a full strip down rebuild. Which is a pain as it is something it probably does need.
It's a webber 34 ich. So maybe different to the Haynes. Only has idle and mixture
-
11 minutes ago, steve b said:
It sounds like it's flooding , take the top off the carb and check the float/needle valve are all ok
cheers
Steve b
Yeah it does sound like it's getting too much fuel. How can I check float as its not visible. Could the float of gone back in wrong position as I've put new part in?
-
14 minutes ago, jordan_meakin said:
Do you have a Haynes? Decent set up instructions in there. First thing is to make sure your timing is spot on. Then, get the engine up to temperature and follow the Haynes manual.
It's rough as hell cold, spotting out smoke.. One step forward, two back ha
-
So I have done the service on the carb, gave it a good clean out and now starting the truck it's running silly rich. Am I right in saying it has to be warm before you tweek the idle mixture? It's spluttering like crazy
-
I now have the grill soaking in paint thinners as it's been painted black. And today have taken the carb off to overhaul it. Currently it's just drying out after a spray of cleaner on it.
-
Got the rhd light to go with the other that was right..
Also bought a card overhaul kit so will redo all the seals etc on the carb. Will get seat box off soon to get to the TB and gearbox etc.
-
1 hour ago, Snagger said:
I had to do mine in my front garden, my garage at the time being only big enough to work on one assembly (engine, transmission etc) at a time. Some don’t even have that much space. I envy those with proper workshops and machining tools.
Yeah, it's currently on the parents drive so think if I stripped it I might be disowned haha.
I made a school boy error today, delivery turned up and one of the headlights is LHD. I thought I'd hit buy on the RhD twice. Obviously not haha
-
Oh I'm. Not giving up. Just would be nice to have a proper workshop...
-
On 7/14/2019 at 9:07 AM, Snagger said:
There is a lot of gunge on the end of the selector shaft, behind the 90 degree eye that the high /low ratio lever ball sits in. The o-rings on the shafts probably need replacing. Gazzar’s lightweight pages will show you where they are.
The whole transmission and engine would benefit from a Thor rough degreasing and jet wash, ideally a steam clean, before you start opening up any panels to replace seals. Not only will that prevent dirt ingress and make the job easier and less disgusting, but will also allow you to spot subsequent or remaining leaks far more easily. It’d be best to clean everything thorough and then run it a few days to allow small leaks to become visible before you go to the trouble of stripping stuff down, but your efforts in removing the floor and transmission cover will still pay of as you’ll need the access to clean them properly.
Aluminium transfer box bottom plates do help reduce leaks from that gasket, but they don’t eliminate them. You’d need to use RTV sealant in place of the gasket for that, but the bolts still weep. The drain plug will also continue weeping, even with a new copper washer. I suspect plumbers PTFE tape on the threads making it slightly tapered would be the only cure for that.
I just don't have the space to do a full strip down rebuild. Which is a pain as it is something it probably does need.
-
I have sealant. So that's a start ha. Can get ptfe easy enough. Just have to get the access and clean it up.. Part of me wants a big barn to strip it full back.
-
11 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Invest in an angle grinder. 4.5 inch. Get grinding disks and slitting disks, fasteners are cheap, time is precious. Use PPE.
Flap disks are good too.
Got one bud, just not the space at moment to go crazy. That is the only hole I've found, it's on the front fuel tank bracket.
Want to at some point get it strip it and clean it off and waxoyl etc.. One day...
-
Had a few hours this afternoon and got the floor plate out of drivers side, will have to do pass side and tunnel to get a proper look. Also I swore at the 50year old bolts that were rusted in place. Then took the dremmal to them. Knew my random purchase of that thing years ago would pay off haha..
-
1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Remember, you only hold a series Landrover in trust, someday it will move on, be generous to the next holder.
Hoping to keep this In trust for a fair few years and then hand it down. But that will depend on if and when I have someone to hand it too.
-
17 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I think you have to take the floor plates out.
A crate of brake cleaner or a power washer would make a difference.
Started to unbolt the floor plate. The bolts are as old as the car I think. Ones snapped on me. Will replace all bolts once I've got it up. Horrible feeling the leak is going to be in a crappy place.
-
2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I think you have to take the floor plates out.
A crate of brake cleaner or a power washer would make a difference.
Ah flat head screw driver to the rescue then ha. Least its the weekend, although I'm afew pints down and some malbec tonight.. Sunday maybe..
-
Have taken the middle seat out and you only see the very rear of it all. It has the last 50+ years of Gunk on it, so started to get it off.. Can I get the gear ox tunnel off without going crazy taking anything else off??
-
2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Find the leaks first. I didn't see any drip at that flange in your photos. The oil can be blown about when driving so find the source.
The big metal plate with the bung is a notorious leak point, it's steel, and the casing is Ali, so they expand at different temperatures.
I've taken to double gasketing there, and putting a reverse tension on the steel plate, so that the bolt holes tension the plate last.
So, if you put the plate down on a flat surface, the part of the mating surface with holes in would be slightly proud (1/2 mm) of the surface, compared to the rest.
But the better solution is to fit a Ali sump, which expands at the same rate as the casing.
Definitely seems to be coming out the TB just not sure at what point of it... The sump is fitted with a new gasket and leaks in exactly the same place at rear which is pointing me towards the rear crank seal.
-
16 minutes ago, steve b said:
Yes . easy to see through the middle panel . It's worth checking all the joint bolts right through the boxes as over time they do become less tight.
Most of all though is clean it first - scraper first then Gunk or brake cleaner so you can see it all clearly
cheers
Steve b
Great cheers will get onto that this weekend
-
7 hours ago, steve b said:
Before you get into seals and stuff a really good clean of 40+years of crud will allow you to see exactly where it's coming from . TBH it looks pretty normal for an old series , a check of the bolts holding the seal ring to the TB nose would be worthwhile for a start - it doesn't look wet around the seal to drive flange surface ?
It could easily be the cork gaskets under the panels on the top of the TB too
cheers
Steve b
You are right it's not wet there, it's very wet along the bottom of that unit. And it's dripping off the plug., to see the top I'm thinking it's through the seat box?
-
This is where it seems to be the worst area
-
1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Think I have just accepted that there is more to do than first thought. Haha. But it's a runner and solid
-
1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Yes, there's always something to learn.
Well it seems that I need to get it up in the air and a lot of seals replacing haHa. Transfer box for definite, then there is oil coming out of front drive shaft where it meets the gearbox. Think it just needs incontinence pads on the ground
New user new 2a owner
in Series Forum
Posted
IT was poorly painted black (looked brushed on)... So dipped in thinners, wire brushed off, then rattle can primer and silver.