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LiamC last won the day on June 26

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  1. The shift kit is overpriced, I should have just bought the adapter and made my own shift linkage, it's not too difficult but all these things take time to do. Also the shift kit was not compatible with my existing diff lock selector so we had to fabricate that part of it any way. Also the mounting bracket for the land rover selector top was slightly out so I had to pack it out with washers. The actual shift linkage part in the shift kit does actually work work very well though, all gears select nicely and the positions feel good. I did back off the spring stops on the land rover selector housing as reverse was a bit heavy to engage at first. I have got an annoying/concerning rattle coming from the transmission area at the moment which I haven't managed to diagnose. I'm going to remove the transmission tunnel at the weekend to see if I can try to locate the source.
  2. I'm still not happy with the exhaust. I'm using a TD5 center box from Bearmach and it's huge. It actually works really well and seems like a quality unit. The exhaust is lovely and quiet but it sits very low, below the chassis rail. Is there anyone with a TD5 90 that could post a picture of their center box so I can see how it sits? Here's how mine currently looks and I think it's just asking for trouble off road.
  3. Hi, just had a quick measure, it's hard to measure accurately but it's a good 100mm between the back of the engine and the bulkhead. I think you will have problems on a LHD with the alternator hitting the steering box. I have heard of people using a P38 steering box on the outside of the chassis rail to resolve this issue. I had to remove the air con pump on mine to make it fit the RHD. You could of course relocate the alternator to the air con pump position which should be fairly straight forward. Here are some pictures, excuse the wiring in the electrical box, it's still in testing/experimental phase.
  4. Yes I used the BMW 6 speed manual from an E46 330d. Lots of people use the R380 with great success but as I didn't have a suitable R380 box to hand (mine was an LT77) I thought I might as well upgrade. It does add cost because the ratios are lower and the transfer box gears need to be changed to match but I'm really pleased with the way the ratios have turned out. Because the low range transfer gears remain the same I now have a super low range low box. Low 1st is like a crawler gear so I think I will have a better selection of low gears to use off road, can't wait to give it a try.
  5. As engine conversions go this one is fairly straight forward. It's surprising how the costs add up though.....Doner car, 6 speed gearbox, adapter plate & shaft, new gearset for the LT230, clutch, flywheel then there's all the little bits......hose joiners/clamps, electrical bits & bobs, exhaust etc. The spreadsheet is over £3k so far. I did a lot of research before hand so I had a pretty good idea what was involved. The most frustrating bit was the exhaust and I'm still not happy with it. I'm using a TD5 center silencer and it's huge and protrudes below the chassis rails in a vulnerable position. I'm using the standard chassis points so I don't know if this is normal on TD5's? Where are you based? Milton Keynes? You'd be welcome to come down to Oxford and take a look some time if you want to get some ideas.
  6. Very few options for that box, I used the "Syncro Gearbox's" adapter in the end. I haven't done very well at keeping this thread up to date. I now have the Land Rover running on the road, the 6 cylinders make it so smooth! I will post a video when I get a chance. I still have a lot of bits and pieces to finish and a couple of niggles to sort out. It drives now but it's definitely not finished.
  7. It feels like a significant milestone getting it fired up. Still plenty to do though before I can take it for a drive. I'm currently waiting on various parts at the moment as orders/deliveries are not as consistent as usual at this time, for obvious reasons. Ha, nothing exciting, all I said was "We got oil pressure as soon as I turned the key."
  8. Today was a quick engine start test to check my wiring up of the ECU and immobiliser.
  9. I have been giving a lot of thought to the cooling system. It turns out that the BMW radiator and intercooler from the doner car look like they would be a good fit to the land rover. I had considered getting a TD5 rad pack but as I already have the BMW pack which is matched to the engine it seems sensible to use them. I will experiment at the weekend. Mounts for the engine are also ready to install at the weekend. I'm using the BMW rubbers which have a vacuum feed that connects to a solenoid controlled by the ECU, which adjusts the stiffness of the mounts at different engine speeds.
  10. I got the new engine dropped in this weekend. I have got it mounted on the two rear mounts, (one on the transfer box and one on the gearbox), just need to work out some engine mounts now. Ideally I want to pick up on the existing chassis mounts so I don't have to weld to my galvanised chassis.
  11. Thanks guys for the excellent suggestions. I have actually found the issue now. Because I was trying to attach the heavy transfer box single handed I put some lengths of threaded rod in the mounting holes to get it aligned. As I slid the box on it came to a halt at one point. I assumed that the one sided weight was causing it to twist and bind on the threaded rod so I wound some nuts on to push it up. I believe actually the adaptor shaft must have been binding where it wasn't square and pushed the output shaft back and into the gearbox slightly on its bearing. I have just set up a puller to test my theory and the shaft came back out just a fraction to it's "home" position and now everything is free as it should be. I shall try to fit the transfer box again but will pay more attention to making sure it is going on square this time.
  12. I've actually pulled the transmission off completely so it's now stand alone. Having spent the evening learning how manual gearboxes actually work I'm pretty sure it's the 5th gear syncro ring which is not coming completely free from the 5th speed gear cone. The transmission has been sat for several months so the oil may have drained off the synros and they could be quite dry. I have also been bench shifting the box which apparently you shouldn't do if it's been sat or is dry. I wonder if it will free itself once the oil gets circulating? As I say it's not locked but there is a lot of friction.
  13. Well today has been a bit of a disaster. I've spent the day trying to work out what is going on with the gearbox. I've played around with this box many times, selecting all the gears and counting the number of turns on the input and output shafts to check that the ratios are correct and it all worked very well and was always easy to spin by hand. Except for today when I bolted up the transfer box it was very stiff to turn even though it was in neutral. It concerned me enough to pull it off the engine and remove the transfer box to see what's going on. In neutral it feels like the input and output are connected together, however if I get one person to grab each shaft you can just about turn them independently by hand but only just. All of the gears still select but again it requires all my strength to grip the shaft tight enough to rotate it even with no load. Fifth gear is straight through (1:1) which still works fine and is free. Clearly the resistance is when trying to turn the input and output at different speeds, there appears to be some sort of drag/friction between them but why has this problem suddenly occurred? Or is it a problem at all, when the engine is running will it spin fast enough for the oil pump to run and free off whatever is sticking/dragging? These boxes are usually really reliable. Any input greatly appreciated.
  14. I just prefer a manual transmission, I know modern autos are really good and I did consider this route but I still have a slight preference for the manual. Also, as Ross said, controlling the auto involves quite a bit of ECU work to get working properly. I have read about people using the auto box from the BMW X5 which I think is a good option but it will be expensive and complex to set up.
  15. Finally a free weekend to work on the Landy. The transfer box is back together with the 1.1:1 gear set and the 2.5NA is out! The previous owner rebuilt this landy on a galvanised chassis about 4 or 5 years ago, all the bolts were greased which has made removing the engine and transmission a really easy job. I removed the engine, gearbox and transfer box all in one go by lifting on a overhead beam and gradually pushing the landy backwards at the same time until it came clear.
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