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Everything posted by LiamC

  1. Aircon would be great, I doubt I'll ever get round to it though. The pump could be relocated on the engine to clear the steering box or you could use a p38 steering box outside the chassis rail. I've kept all the parts from the BMW just incase but I don't have the aircon dash for the 90 and I hear they are difficult to get hold of. For the mounts we did indeed manage to avoid welding to the galv chassis. On the drivers side we made a bracket to bolt onto the existing chassis mount plus we drilled an additional hole in the chassis. This bracket then bolts to the BMW rubber/hydraulic mount which in turn bolts to the original BMW engine mount/casting. On the passenger side we bolted the BMW rubber/hydraulic mount directly to the original land rover chassis mount, we binned the BMW engine mount/casting and we fabricated a new engine mount to go between the rubber and engine. Pics of what we made can be seen at the top of page 3 of this thread.
  2. I fitted the mount between the transfer box and the chassis in the normal position. I set the engine so that the bottom of the sump is level horizontally with reference to the chassis rails. As you lower the front of the engine to get it level front to back the alternator just about comes into contact with the chassis so I had to lift the front of the engine ever so slightly to provide some clearance, so it's not totally level in the front to back direction. If I were doing it again I would take some references from the centre of the crankshaft before removing the old engine, which would make things easier. I used the BMW inline fuel pump from the doner car which I have fitted as close as practical to the fuel tank. If you don't have one you can find used genuine BMW pumps (Pierburg) on eBay or you can use a Bosch 044 pump but make sure you buy a genuine one from an authorised Bosch dealer as there are loads of counterfeit ones which seem to fail after a very short time.
  3. Thanks Ross, yeah I Called them last week, you're right the main place is open now but the vehicle salvage yard will be closed for at least a couple more weeks apparently.
  4. Well I found the source of my rattle/knocking noise, it was simply the selector housing contacting the transmission tunnel so that was a relief and easy to resolve. Now that's sorted it really is so lovely to drive. This engine is so super smooth and I'm really enjoying driving it. I need to sort a cooling fan at some point, it seems to cope driving home from work in 35 degree heat last week just fine but I wouldn't have confidence sitting in traffic etc with no fan at all. I wanted to have a hunt in the local breakers yard for a suitable electric fan but Haynes is still closed because of covid. My adaptor is obviously no longer on the bench as its fitted now, what is it you need to check?
  5. The shift kit is overpriced, I should have just bought the adapter and made my own shift linkage, it's not too difficult but all these things take time to do. Also the shift kit was not compatible with my existing diff lock selector so we had to fabricate that part of it any way. Also the mounting bracket for the land rover selector top was slightly out so I had to pack it out with washers. The actual shift linkage part in the shift kit does actually work work very well though, all gears select nicely and the positions feel good. I did back off the spring stops on the land rover selector housing as reverse was a bit heavy to engage at first. I have got an annoying/concerning rattle coming from the transmission area at the moment which I haven't managed to diagnose. I'm going to remove the transmission tunnel at the weekend to see if I can try to locate the source.
  6. I'm still not happy with the exhaust. I'm using a TD5 center box from Bearmach and it's huge. It actually works really well and seems like a quality unit. The exhaust is lovely and quiet but it sits very low, below the chassis rail. Is there anyone with a TD5 90 that could post a picture of their center box so I can see how it sits? Here's how mine currently looks and I think it's just asking for trouble off road.
  7. Hi, just had a quick measure, it's hard to measure accurately but it's a good 100mm between the back of the engine and the bulkhead. I think you will have problems on a LHD with the alternator hitting the steering box. I have heard of people using a P38 steering box on the outside of the chassis rail to resolve this issue. I had to remove the air con pump on mine to make it fit the RHD. You could of course relocate the alternator to the air con pump position which should be fairly straight forward. Here are some pictures, excuse the wiring in the electrical box, it's still in testing/experimental phase.
  8. Yes I used the BMW 6 speed manual from an E46 330d. Lots of people use the R380 with great success but as I didn't have a suitable R380 box to hand (mine was an LT77) I thought I might as well upgrade. It does add cost because the ratios are lower and the transfer box gears need to be changed to match but I'm really pleased with the way the ratios have turned out. Because the low range transfer gears remain the same I now have a super low range low box. Low 1st is like a crawler gear so I think I will have a better selection of low gears to use off road, can't wait to give it a try.
  9. As engine conversions go this one is fairly straight forward. It's surprising how the costs add up though.....Doner car, 6 speed gearbox, adapter plate & shaft, new gearset for the LT230, clutch, flywheel then there's all the little bits......hose joiners/clamps, electrical bits & bobs, exhaust etc. The spreadsheet is over £3k so far. I did a lot of research before hand so I had a pretty good idea what was involved. The most frustrating bit was the exhaust and I'm still not happy with it. I'm using a TD5 center silencer and it's huge and protrudes below the chassis rails in a vulnerable position. I'm using the standard chassis points so I don't know if this is normal on TD5's? Where are you based? Milton Keynes? You'd be welcome to come down to Oxford and take a look some time if you want to get some ideas.
  10. Very few options for that box, I used the "Syncro Gearbox's" adapter in the end. I haven't done very well at keeping this thread up to date. I now have the Land Rover running on the road, the 6 cylinders make it so smooth! I will post a video when I get a chance. I still have a lot of bits and pieces to finish and a couple of niggles to sort out. It drives now but it's definitely not finished.
  11. It feels like a significant milestone getting it fired up. Still plenty to do though before I can take it for a drive. I'm currently waiting on various parts at the moment as orders/deliveries are not as consistent as usual at this time, for obvious reasons. Ha, nothing exciting, all I said was "We got oil pressure as soon as I turned the key."
  12. Today was a quick engine start test to check my wiring up of the ECU and immobiliser.
  13. I have been giving a lot of thought to the cooling system. It turns out that the BMW radiator and intercooler from the doner car look like they would be a good fit to the land rover. I had considered getting a TD5 rad pack but as I already have the BMW pack which is matched to the engine it seems sensible to use them. I will experiment at the weekend. Mounts for the engine are also ready to install at the weekend. I'm using the BMW rubbers which have a vacuum feed that connects to a solenoid controlled by the ECU, which adjusts the stiffness of the mounts at different engine speeds.
  14. I got the new engine dropped in this weekend. I have got it mounted on the two rear mounts, (one on the transfer box and one on the gearbox), just need to work out some engine mounts now. Ideally I want to pick up on the existing chassis mounts so I don't have to weld to my galvanised chassis.
  15. Thanks guys for the excellent suggestions. I have actually found the issue now. Because I was trying to attach the heavy transfer box single handed I put some lengths of threaded rod in the mounting holes to get it aligned. As I slid the box on it came to a halt at one point. I assumed that the one sided weight was causing it to twist and bind on the threaded rod so I wound some nuts on to push it up. I believe actually the adaptor shaft must have been binding where it wasn't square and pushed the output shaft back and into the gearbox slightly on its bearing. I have just set up a puller to test my theory and the shaft came back out just a fraction to it's "home" position and now everything is free as it should be. I shall try to fit the transfer box again but will pay more attention to making sure it is going on square this time.
  16. I've actually pulled the transmission off completely so it's now stand alone. Having spent the evening learning how manual gearboxes actually work I'm pretty sure it's the 5th gear syncro ring which is not coming completely free from the 5th speed gear cone. The transmission has been sat for several months so the oil may have drained off the synros and they could be quite dry. I have also been bench shifting the box which apparently you shouldn't do if it's been sat or is dry. I wonder if it will free itself once the oil gets circulating? As I say it's not locked but there is a lot of friction.
  17. Well today has been a bit of a disaster. I've spent the day trying to work out what is going on with the gearbox. I've played around with this box many times, selecting all the gears and counting the number of turns on the input and output shafts to check that the ratios are correct and it all worked very well and was always easy to spin by hand. Except for today when I bolted up the transfer box it was very stiff to turn even though it was in neutral. It concerned me enough to pull it off the engine and remove the transfer box to see what's going on. In neutral it feels like the input and output are connected together, however if I get one person to grab each shaft you can just about turn them independently by hand but only just. All of the gears still select but again it requires all my strength to grip the shaft tight enough to rotate it even with no load. Fifth gear is straight through (1:1) which still works fine and is free. Clearly the resistance is when trying to turn the input and output at different speeds, there appears to be some sort of drag/friction between them but why has this problem suddenly occurred? Or is it a problem at all, when the engine is running will it spin fast enough for the oil pump to run and free off whatever is sticking/dragging? These boxes are usually really reliable. Any input greatly appreciated.
  18. I just prefer a manual transmission, I know modern autos are really good and I did consider this route but I still have a slight preference for the manual. Also, as Ross said, controlling the auto involves quite a bit of ECU work to get working properly. I have read about people using the auto box from the BMW X5 which I think is a good option but it will be expensive and complex to set up.
  19. Finally a free weekend to work on the Landy. The transfer box is back together with the 1.1:1 gear set and the 2.5NA is out! The previous owner rebuilt this landy on a galvanised chassis about 4 or 5 years ago, all the bolts were greased which has made removing the engine and transmission a really easy job. I removed the engine, gearbox and transfer box all in one go by lifting on a overhead beam and gradually pushing the landy backwards at the same time until it came clear.
  20. Very jealous, I would love to have a drive of one of those. I'm waiting for the technology to become cheaper as not within my budget currently. Would make a great second vehicle for trips where you don't need the range.
  21. A small update. I spent an evening this week disassembling my spare LT230 transfer box. I plan to order Ashcroft's new special 1.1:1 gearset. I have checked over all the components and as far as I can tell everything seems to be in good order. However I have never opened up one of these boxes before so I don't have anything to compare it to. I'm told that this box has covered 97k miles in a disco 1. The oil did look like it was overdue for a change but all of the bearings seem fine so I was planning to reuse them? I will change the seals though as they are relatively cheap. If anyone has any advice on what to check while I have it apart or and tips for reassembly then please let me know. I don't have the handbrake mechanism from the disco box so I believe I will have to tap some holes in order to mount the old style defender mechanism? I have also just discovered that I will have to switch to the 26 tooth input gear in order to use the new Ashcroft gearset, so that's another £78 to add to the ever building unplanned expense!
  22. Oh ok, thanks for clarifying, when you said "the guy" I thought you meant it in a bad way. There are three sources for the specific adaptor that i need, one of which I have chosen to avoid as he has a bad rep with the Cummins crowd, the other two remaining options being Shabs at Syncro or Nick Finlay. I'm just making sure I do my research and listen to all sides before making my decision and handing over the cash.
  23. The transfer box adapter plate and shaft is the most expensive part of the project. There's a good chance I might go with this one: https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/bmw-6-speed-n47-zf-gearbox-to-lt230-adapter-kit/ Does anyone know anything about this company? I did a bit of googling about them and found mostly positive things.
  24. A small update. The doner car has gone now, in the end I recovered £400 from the sale of a few parts from the BMW, so the engine has effectively cost me £300 which I'm quite pleased about. I bodged together a temporary stand alone wiring loom to see if I could get the immobiliser working. With a bit of time going through various pinouts I got the starter to crank and I can connect to the ECU with the INPA software so its looking good. I also used the time I had during the wet weather to refurbish a 300tdi discovery rear axle which I picked up back in the summer. When we eventually had a dry weekend I managed to get it fitted to the 90. I always planned to fit disc brakes at some point and thought it better to get them sorted before installing the new engine. I have finally found a sensibly priced BMW 6 speed manual gearbox with the correct bell housing for my engine, I'm going to have a look at it on Saturday so hopefully I'll be bringing that home.
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