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LiamC

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Everything posted by LiamC

  1. The 6-speed to LT230 adaptor plate has mounting holes drilled and tapped which I think is designed to take the original 300tdi/R380 mount, but as I originally had a 2.5N/A/LT77 it wasn't quite right so I had to slightly modify those mounts to get them lined up. I don't have a picture of that but I remember it was fairly straight forward.
  2. I think you might be looking at the turbo actuator with the black/blue rubber pipe on it? It sticks down very close to the engine mount.
  3. Yes that's right, this was back in October when we were allowed to travel. We went to an event run by the British army motorsports association. Such a well organised event with very sensible covid safe measures.
  4. I've done 5000 miles in it so far and I'm so pleased with it. It went through the MOT last week with no advisories which was nice. I have had an error code for one of the glow plugs so I ordered some new ones, but I've heard horror stories about them snapping in the head so I'm yet to decide whether I'm actually brave enough to try and replace it.
  5. It's hard to be sure from the poor photo but it looks to me like the stub axle is still attached and the hub is missing. If the outer bearing was absent then the only thing holding the hub in place would be the brake disc in the caliper. I'm guessing the brake disc eventually gave up, the hub drifted off the end of the stub axle and then the half shaft snapped when it was loaded with the weight of the vehicle?
  6. He wasn't driving a series, it was a Disco1. A bit more info here: https://www.grimsbytelegraph.co.uk/news/grimsby-news/amelia-wood-inquest-drivers-tears-4903460
  7. I like the Ctek chargers, I have one permanently installed in the camper van. The best price I've found for Ctek chargers is from Halfords with a trade card. I've decided I want to get a Ctek MSX10 for the workshop, which is on their website at £93.20 with the trade card but it's out of stock at the moment.
  8. Well I haven't done much towing with it yet but I did move my sister's horse trailer and it was effortless. The engine has so much talk I didn't really notice it was there. On another note we did a run from Oxford to Dunfirmeline at 70mph all the way (on cruise control), we then competed in a two day on and off road navigation event and then drove back home via the lake district and averaged 32mpg, which I was very pleased with.
  9. I see this all the time on the way to work in the early mornings when its still dark. It's quite dangerous on an unlit fast A road with no rear lights showing. I was driving in the fog the other day (during daylight) and the problem was much worse, most of the traffic only had DRLs on (no rear lights at all). I assume that the automatic headlights detect that it's daytime but don't know that visibility is poor and people are so used to their lights being automated that they don't think to check what lights they are using?
  10. I removed the digital speedo drive from a disco 1 box and found that the square drive cable on my 90 was too large to fit the "digital" gear. I had to remove the gear housing and replace the gear (which I planned to do anyway to correctly match the tyre size). So I assume that the digital speedo drive gears are not compatible with the cable drive gears and visa versa. However, as posted above I suppose filing down the cable is another option.
  11. I also assumed that Ashcrofts was the company in question and I was thinking that's a shame as they always used to use only quality parts, so I can't blame Dave for being a little upset and I'm glad he decided to clarify the situation. I agree in that not naming a company can actually lead people to make the wrong assumption which is of course worse in the long run. I'm in flavor of sharing experiences with companies both good and bad.
  12. I just did a bit of research, turns out its a common problem on track cars when they remove the air-con to improve airflow performance but then find that the fan runs continuously. The PWM fan is a brushless motor with about a dozen windings and its own built in controller so you can't make it run without an appropriate PWM signal. I could have generated my own signal but I think the solution I mention in the video is a tidier option. It's a seriously powerful fan when it gets going at full speed. The engine also had a viscous fan fitted in the BMW in addition to the electric one, I have remove it though as it won't fit with my intercooler pipework.
  13. I've covered nearly 1000 miles now since the conversion has been on the road. Still plenty of little things to finish off but I'm really pleased. It has totally transformed the land rover and it's such a pleasure to drive. Here's a quick walk round video and short test drive.
  14. I used the original mount on the transfer box side but had to modify the original gearbox mount to fit it to the adapter plate as I think it is designed to work with the later 300tdi, mounts but that was pretty straight forward. The HGA type gearbox box is hard to find and it's quite expensive because it's sought after in the BMW world for manual conversions. If I were doing the conversion again I would consider a later engine with the wider bolt pattern as although the electrics/software is a bit more complex the later gearboxes are really cheap and easy to find. Yes they come up on ebay if you keep looking but unfortunately sellers don't know the relevance of the three letter code so often don't mention it in the listing. I had to trawl through photos and e-mail sellers to get that information. The HGA box is found in the E46 330d but it was also in some of the very early E60 530d but only the very early ones. In the end I got mine from a BMW breakers in Kent called Nick Jupp, he was quite good so might be worth a call. I negotiated a deal with him for the gearbox with a virtually brand new clutch and DMF for £500.
  15. Aircon would be great, I doubt I'll ever get round to it though. The pump could be relocated on the engine to clear the steering box or you could use a p38 steering box outside the chassis rail. I've kept all the parts from the BMW just incase but I don't have the aircon dash for the 90 and I hear they are difficult to get hold of. For the mounts we did indeed manage to avoid welding to the galv chassis. On the drivers side we made a bracket to bolt onto the existing chassis mount plus we drilled an additional hole in the chassis. This bracket then bolts to the BMW rubber/hydraulic mount which in turn bolts to the original BMW engine mount/casting. On the passenger side we bolted the BMW rubber/hydraulic mount directly to the original land rover chassis mount, we binned the BMW engine mount/casting and we fabricated a new engine mount to go between the rubber and engine. Pics of what we made can be seen at the top of page 3 of this thread.
  16. I fitted the mount between the transfer box and the chassis in the normal position. I set the engine so that the bottom of the sump is level horizontally with reference to the chassis rails. As you lower the front of the engine to get it level front to back the alternator just about comes into contact with the chassis so I had to lift the front of the engine ever so slightly to provide some clearance, so it's not totally level in the front to back direction. If I were doing it again I would take some references from the centre of the crankshaft before removing the old engine, which would make things easier. I used the BMW inline fuel pump from the doner car which I have fitted as close as practical to the fuel tank. If you don't have one you can find used genuine BMW pumps (Pierburg) on eBay or you can use a Bosch 044 pump but make sure you buy a genuine one from an authorised Bosch dealer as there are loads of counterfeit ones which seem to fail after a very short time.
  17. Thanks Ross, yeah I Called them last week, you're right the main place is open now but the vehicle salvage yard will be closed for at least a couple more weeks apparently.
  18. Well I found the source of my rattle/knocking noise, it was simply the selector housing contacting the transmission tunnel so that was a relief and easy to resolve. Now that's sorted it really is so lovely to drive. This engine is so super smooth and I'm really enjoying driving it. I need to sort a cooling fan at some point, it seems to cope driving home from work in 35 degree heat last week just fine but I wouldn't have confidence sitting in traffic etc with no fan at all. I wanted to have a hunt in the local breakers yard for a suitable electric fan but Haynes is still closed because of covid. My adaptor is obviously no longer on the bench as its fitted now, what is it you need to check?
  19. The shift kit is overpriced, I should have just bought the adapter and made my own shift linkage, it's not too difficult but all these things take time to do. Also the shift kit was not compatible with my existing diff lock selector so we had to fabricate that part of it any way. Also the mounting bracket for the land rover selector top was slightly out so I had to pack it out with washers. The actual shift linkage part in the shift kit does actually work work very well though, all gears select nicely and the positions feel good. I did back off the spring stops on the land rover selector housing as reverse was a bit heavy to engage at first. I have got an annoying/concerning rattle coming from the transmission area at the moment which I haven't managed to diagnose. I'm going to remove the transmission tunnel at the weekend to see if I can try to locate the source.
  20. I'm still not happy with the exhaust. I'm using a TD5 center box from Bearmach and it's huge. It actually works really well and seems like a quality unit. The exhaust is lovely and quiet but it sits very low, below the chassis rail. Is there anyone with a TD5 90 that could post a picture of their center box so I can see how it sits? Here's how mine currently looks and I think it's just asking for trouble off road.
  21. Hi, just had a quick measure, it's hard to measure accurately but it's a good 100mm between the back of the engine and the bulkhead. I think you will have problems on a LHD with the alternator hitting the steering box. I have heard of people using a P38 steering box on the outside of the chassis rail to resolve this issue. I had to remove the air con pump on mine to make it fit the RHD. You could of course relocate the alternator to the air con pump position which should be fairly straight forward. Here are some pictures, excuse the wiring in the electrical box, it's still in testing/experimental phase.
  22. Yes I used the BMW 6 speed manual from an E46 330d. Lots of people use the R380 with great success but as I didn't have a suitable R380 box to hand (mine was an LT77) I thought I might as well upgrade. It does add cost because the ratios are lower and the transfer box gears need to be changed to match but I'm really pleased with the way the ratios have turned out. Because the low range transfer gears remain the same I now have a super low range low box. Low 1st is like a crawler gear so I think I will have a better selection of low gears to use off road, can't wait to give it a try.
  23. As engine conversions go this one is fairly straight forward. It's surprising how the costs add up though.....Doner car, 6 speed gearbox, adapter plate & shaft, new gearset for the LT230, clutch, flywheel then there's all the little bits......hose joiners/clamps, electrical bits & bobs, exhaust etc. The spreadsheet is over £3k so far. I did a lot of research before hand so I had a pretty good idea what was involved. The most frustrating bit was the exhaust and I'm still not happy with it. I'm using a TD5 center silencer and it's huge and protrudes below the chassis rails in a vulnerable position. I'm using the standard chassis points so I don't know if this is normal on TD5's? Where are you based? Milton Keynes? You'd be welcome to come down to Oxford and take a look some time if you want to get some ideas.
  24. Very few options for that box, I used the "Syncro Gearbox's" adapter in the end. I haven't done very well at keeping this thread up to date. I now have the Land Rover running on the road, the 6 cylinders make it so smooth! I will post a video when I get a chance. I still have a lot of bits and pieces to finish and a couple of niggles to sort out. It drives now but it's definitely not finished.
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