LiamC

The adaptors that go in the oil pressure switch hole are really only for an oil pressure gauge as there is no flow of oil at that point to get an accurate temperature reading. On my 200tdi there is a separate blanking plug for the oil temp sender, it was quite deep in there IIRC. Assuming the 300tdi is the same it may be suitable for your capillary bulb. The blanking plug was very large so you will most likely need an adaptor bush fitting and that will only help in giving you more clearance for the bulb.

I'm also using MMtracker for android, it cost me £5 for the full version. I like the fact that I'm not relying on network coverage for my maps, I bought a 16GB micro SD card and put all the qct map files on there.

A 90 won't fit under the drivers seat of a 110CSW as the rear footwell gets in the way. Not sure about a 110 van. I fitted a 22L marine plastic tank under the drivers seat of mine just for starting and stopping. The tank is filled by removing the driver seat base.

I bought some cheap diamond patterned ones on eBay for a winter trip to Europe (some of the mountain regions require you to carry them in the vehicle by law). Other than a trial fitment on the driveway I have never actually needed to use them.

For those of you that have not already heard, the Abingdon 4x4 Festival is back on, they appear to have found a new venue. Full information at http://www.abingdon4x4festival.com .

My dad used to have a 90 with an FD35, he too used a 1.222 transfer box when he did the conversion and he kept the original LT77. I liked the engine, we ran it with this set up for 15 years and it worked well. I have just put a discovery 1.222 box in my 200tdi 110 and motorway cruising is much improved.

You say that you're getting fuel at the injectors which would suggest that fuel is getting past the stop solenoid so that's unlikely to be the problem. I would also rule out glow plugs, the glow plugs on my 200tdi haven't worked for years and it still starts even in the coldest weather without any problems. As others have said it sounds like a timing issue. I haven't removed the pump on a tdi but I swapped one on a perkins prima and that was bolted through slotted holes to allow for fine adjustment, you would physically rotate the pump slightly which would have an effect on the timing. The tdi probably has a similar set up, you really need a dial gauge to set the pump properly once removed/refitted but if you can move the pump slightly and get it to fire up it may confirm your problem.

I had a 1.4 box in my 110 and I've just changed it for a disco 1.2 box and its sooooo much better! I have normal 235/85/16 tyres and the gearing now is just right for normal use, perhaps a little high when fully laden but overall much better. However I wouldn't want to go any higher so if I had bigger tyres I would think the 1.4 box would be the way forward. Indeed check what you've got, there's usually a sticker on the box but if not you can work out the ratio from the serial number.

I don't think a 90 tank will go under the seat of a 110 CSW as the second row floor gets in the way. I am in the process of fitting a second tank to my 110 as part of my veg oil system. I was going to fit a military fuel tank from a series/lightweight that fills from under the seat base as I too had no where to put an external filler cap. In the end as I didn't need a very big tank I have gone for a 22L plastic marine type tank under the drivers seat instead.

I assume thats on a "classic" policy, if so I have the same policy with footman james, mine was £130 when I renewed the 110 in July. They don't recognise NCB on their classic policy which is fine except I now have to insure the Mrs's car in my name to keep my NCB from expiring.

I would only use this as a last resort, it isn't any good for the engine and if used regular you won't be able to start the engine without it.

Ah I see, indeed it looks like swaping the main box is not as straight forward as I first though. I did think about changing the tyres as this will also give me a bit more clearance under the salisbury diff, but I think it will only increase the gearing by 4.5%, it will also have the undesired effect of upsetting the speedo and effecting low range gearing too. I think I'll have a go at swapping the transfer box and leaving the main box as it is. As you guys say, there are plenty of transfer boxes around for very little cost.

Hi Ross, thanks for your reply, I believe I can get a Disco R380 to fit if I swap the bellhousing for a shorter one (FTC4018) which ashcrofts can supply at £165, but this obviously increases the cost of the project and more work is involved. I am leaning towards trying a different transfer box as that is the simple/cheap option, I was just thinking that while the transfer box is off is it worth upgrading to the stonger R380 at the same time? I should have stated in my original post the engine is 200tdi.

The previous owner of my 110 had a re-con gearbox fitted, unfortunatly the replacement box is an early LT77 (pre tdi) which has a lower 5th gear. I currently have the 1.41 transfer box and only get 24 mpg on a careful moterway run and lots of revs/noise! I've tried to work out the different 5th gear ratios of coupling different gearbox/transfer box combinations and worked out the following: - My Set Up: (0.8314 : 1) then (1.41 : 1) = 1.172 : 1 Standard Defender Set Up: (0.77 : 1) then (1.41 : 1) = 1.086 : 1 8% increase on my current gearing. Standard Discovery Set Up: (0.77 : 1) then (1.222 : 1) = 0.941 : 1 24.6% increase on my set up, 15.4% increase on standard defender. My LT77 with Discovery LT230: (0.8314 : 1) then (1.222 : 1) = 1.016 : 1 15% increase on my set up, 6.8% increase on standard defender. Options I'm considering: - • Do nothing, put up with the noise and waste £150+ per year in extra fuel cost. • Second hand Discovery R380 and LT230, Ashcrofts short bell housing, 24.6% gearing increace, Fairly expensive. • Keep Current LT77 and use Second hand Discovery LT230, 15% increase, Fairly Cheap. Just wondering what other folks opinions/recommendations might be?

Indeed a big thank you to those who organised everything, it was a great day. Steve200TDi - Yes that was me, its good to put faces to names. Unfortunately I forgot my camera so hopefully some others got some good snaps!

Further reasearch leads me to believe that I do indeed have some sort of aftermarket rad as it appears land rover used 1/2bsp on all their rads. My best guess as to the thread size is M20x1.5 but I can't be certain. I think I might try my local hydralics place tomorrow and see if they have a plug of that size, if it turns out to be wrong then I have no idear what size I need.

After my plastic radiator plug failed at broxhead at the weekend I thought I would order a brass replacement (ERR4686) but it won't fit. The radiator has a much finer thread than the usual 1/2" BSP. As far as I'm aware it has a standard land rover radiator. Vehicle is a 1991 200tdi 110. According to my parts book it should be NTC4609 which is superseeded by ERR4686 so it should be the right one. Any ideas?

Yes thats the one. I have actually just ordered a brass one off the web but the x-eng offering does look rather smart.

We also had a great day. My radiator bleed cap gave up at the end of the day. Managed to get home fine by simply leaving the header tank cap off running the cooling system unpressurised. I think a brass/more substantial replacement cap is in order.

I'm planning to fit a second tank on my 110 eventually. I'm going to remove the tool box and go under the drivers seat. You can't fit a 90 tank under the seat of a 110 CSW as the second row floor gets in the way. I have been looking at the military fuel tanks that I believe were fitted to lightweights but these seem to be quite expensive and hard to find in good condition. I though I would take the tool box out (drill the rivets etc) and then measure up to see exactly what space is available, then see if I can find a marine diesel tank of roughly the right dimentions. I plan to fill it by removing the seat base as I don't know where you would put an extra fuel pocket on a CSW?

I had the same problem, I had to drill the bolt to free the battery clamp. Instead of trying to repair the large centre fixing I drilled two new holes in the clamp and used two smaller bolts to secure it to the battery tray.

I would have thought the radiator should be much cooler than 85 at the outlet? Is there anything obstructing air flow through the rad, such as spot lights or numberplate? Could try removing the grill temporarily to see if this helps at all?

I'll be there in my 110.

I fitted my oil pressure gauge sender into a t-piece where the current oil pressure switch is located. You'll need to get a t-piece compatable with the thread on your sender. The thread in the filter housing on my 200tdi is 10mm x 1mm. The oil temp sender should ideally be fitted in the oil flow not into a t-piece, I believe there is a blanking plug near the top of the filter housing for this.

Sounds good, I did send an e-mail and also book on through the website but haven't heard anything back, I wonder if someone could check if I'm booked on? Hoping to come to Broxhead too which will be my first Shires event.