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Getting Comfortable
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About ClimberTom

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  1. Morning all. Another quick question regarding carbs and balancing them - If setting them up with a vacuum gauge, where would you fit the gauge line? As opposed to one of the Gunson type balancers that go over the filter inlet. Am I right in thinking it should go on where the line to the flame trap>rocker cover connects? Or is it elsewhere? Thanks all
  2. Thanks for that, very helpful! And yes, the hose to the vaccum advance is in the right position externally to come from the manifold side of the carb so that's cleared that one up for me. I can get a pic but it will be a couple of weeks I think unless I can find something shoing it else where, I'll see what I can find! Edit: After more searching it sounds like it is the fresh air intake to the crank case (From another thread on here) Which sounds like it's right to have a small filter on it but if I do fit an air box then it should go to that (or tee into the hose to the carbs)?
  3. Thanks, that video makes it look nice and simple. And yes, I get what you mean that valves opening relatively evenly to one another is better than necisserily opening to the book value. As is the importance of them rotating evenly accros the bank to show that the cams are worn evenly and not overly worn. On a slight tangent, does anyone have any diagrams (or photos) of where the breather and vaccum pipes should go in the original state? I ganed my truck with a few alterations (as you can see in the original picture) I have replaced the nicely perishing rubber hoses with silicone ones but I wonder if I fit a new air box, should I consider modifying the breather and vauum hoses back towards where they would have come from originaly? The only thing that you can't see in the picture is the small filter at the back of the engine block in the centre but just aft of and lower than the valley (which any pointers on it's purpose would be nice?) My current understanding is: The vacuum survos for the break (and in my case clutch as well) are connected to the block (in the valley just forward of the carbs). Presumably this port connects to the intake manifold to cause a vacuum from after the carbs? This then assists the actuation of breaks and clutch. The crank case breathers (one on top each rocker cover) connect to the carbs via flame traps. This port is also on the intake side to cause a small vacuum to help evacuate gasses from the crank case to avoid the crank case becoming pressurised? Finally there is a small vacuum line from one carb (passenger side towards the centre of the engine) that goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. This causes the ignition to advance slightly as the carbs take in more air due to the increase in vacuum in this line? Finally there is the unknown small filter mentioned above at the rear of the block... Have I missunderstood anything there or have I missed something obvious (or anyone spotted something that is not in the right place or should be improved upon?)? Cheers again!
  4. Great stuff, thanks. I was probably a little quick and didn't quite consider what I was writing to begin with but now I think we're getting there. Yes, free/cheap things first. In reality at some point I do have a complete rebuild on my mind, but for the time being I can't really afford that in time or money terms... Am I better to wait out and do a complete rebuild or would doing the top end first then the bottom end later make much sense to spread the time. That said I'm thinking that top end should be do able in situe but a full reuild will be an engine out job? So added to my orginal list of checking the timing and balancing the carbs is to check/clean the distributor; check the valve lift and do a compression test. Hopefully that should give me a picture of what condition the engine is actually in and be the first steps to getting everything running as it should be. Sorry for the completely bone question, but when you say measure the valve lift, how do you go about that? I've just had a trawl through the workshop manual that I have but there's nothing that I can see in there other than it stating what the lift should be. I'm sure this is an obvious one so appologies in advance!
  5. Sorry, I miss understood that the 200tdi box was smaller. I also may not have been very clerar that I'm fairly new to Land Rovers and more so to petrol (carbed) engines. So really I'm looking for anything obvious that I've missed or can look into. Clearly stripping the engine and doing a complete rebuild will be the only way to get it to a known state that is in top spec. Until something major forces that though it's not really an option. I'm happy with the truck I just want to make sure it's running as well as it can for it's sake and for getting the best I reasonabley can out of it. Hence I'm looking at things like timing, carb balancing and a more efficiant way of getting the air in rather than through a pair of clogged air filers.
  6. Yes, she's on bigger tyres (and I presume standard gearing) so that's not helping the situation. A mechanic friend (and land rover nut) who did the MOT recently agreed that it is partly down to tyre size/lift/etc/generally not being a spritley engine. But he did also agree that even considering the above, there are still improvements to be made. That and it's my opertunity to tinker and learn... I'm not too worried about the snorkels as I know they'll cause a restiction. My bigger issue with them is the battering they get so wanting to get them a bit more tucked into the cage to protect them (and give me a little more clearance above). Has anyone fitted or know of a smaller air box that might fit in the gap I've got left to stop the filters sucking up so much engine bay muck which is my bigger hang up. Its either that or I just look to replace the cones like for like and try to keep them clean.
  7. Diesels do have a tendancey to 'Coke up' if ran at low load for long periods if time. More modern engines can cope better with this but the principle still applies. Obviously older engines suffer more. Fuel quality will have an affect too of course. But yes, Diesels do like a 'good run' from time to time.
  8. Slowly but surely I'm getting the truck back up to par. One thing that has been slightly frustrating since i've had it is that its a bit lacking in power so this is the next thing to tackle. First thing on my mind is the air intaks - She's got twin snorkles (around 2.5" ID) but they aren't plumbed in, theyre more for show (currently). They also get a bit battered by trees and bushes in the nice narrow Devon lanes I drive. So any thoughts on improvements in them? I'm thinking lowering them (as I've started in the photo of the passenger side one) and a safari type top to them that I can get tucked inside the boundary of the roll cage for a bit more protection. Next down the line is the air box (or lack of) a previous owner fitted a nice lumpy survo assist to the clutch which take up most of the space the air box would fit. in exchange for the air box I have two lovely small K&Ns on the carbs which are clearly restricting air intake. Thoughts on improvements here? An original air box wont fit but what sort of size would a custom box need to be to get the most of out of it? Has anyone done similar? Fitting an air box would also allow the snorkels to be plumbed in... Or any other throughts on air intakes? At the very least will be new filters on the carbs if I can't make any progress with the snorkels/air box ideas. I have wondered about some form of scoop on the bonnet to help get cleaner/fresher air to the filters but I wonder if that will also allow too much moisture to them as well in rain/off road. It has got a fibregalss/composite bonnet. Next on my list is to check the timing and get that set - Check TDC against the timeing marks then check/adjust the timing to get as much advance as possible without pinking? Finally is the carbs themselves - the dark art of balancing them. I've done a lot of reading and research but if anyone has any pointers on this I'd be very greatful! I have already fitted new (correct) spark plugs, new flame traps, new oils, filters etc. Have I overlooked anything? Or should I be looking at things in a different order? Is it worth looking at the exhaust too? It has tubular headers then is starnard from the 2-1 'Y' piece back. Some pitures to hopefully show what I have to work around with snorkels and air boxes:
  9. Yes it will all come off in one lump provided you can stop the engine turning as you try to undo the main crankshaft bolt....
  10. Just for completeness and for anyone elses benefit if they come looking at this, yes you are corrrect: Bottom pulley & harminic balancer off (the ring of bolts holding the pulley to the balancer are a faff as they have nuts on the back and there is a tiny gap to get a spanner in to hold the bottom one then you have to turn the engine to get at the next one and so on. Definately a 2 man job to re fit!) Home made tool (described on another thread here) to hold the cranfshaft while you undo the main crank bolt. Slide off the harmonic balancer. 8 small screws then hold the small metal flange over the seal. A little gentle persuasion and the seal comes out. Fit new seal with a large socket or small punch (go steady) then replace in the opposite order. Finally (still pending for me) some test driving to see if that was the only source of the oil being on the outside of the engine...
  11. Mornign all. My 1989 3.5ltr V8 90 has had it's MOT for this year and (as expected) the minor oil leaks were mentioned as advisories. One looks to be the front crank shaft seal. so the question is, can this be done without removing the timing casing cover? I've had a search around and found various theories on the application of special tools and wood screws for removing the seal. I have the owners manual which describes chaning the seal as part of a complete engine overhaul. Obviously in this instance the cover is coming off anyway. It's just not overly clear from the book if it's possible to do it with the cover in place. So who's done it and how much of a faf is it to remove the seal without the special tools and with the cover in place? If possible at all? Thanks in advance!!!
  12. Many thanks. That X-Eng setup is exactly what I was after! I was thinking about dual temp control to use only one fan if required but then had waned from the idea as didn't want the hassle of fitting two switches so the dual temp in one switch is ideal. Bottom hose makes perfect sense to me. Also explains why my fans are nearly always running....
  13. My V8 90 (1989) has two electric fans fitted but the thermostat to control them is looking a bit corroded and as I plan to replace the coolant and hoses I thought I'd treat the fans to a re-wire and fit a better temperature switch. The one fitted has the sensor wire tucked into the radiator top hose and clamped with the jubilee clip. I'm looking at fitting an adapter in the hose with a threaded fitting for a temperature switch. The advise I'm after is two fold - first, what temp would you recommend having the fans cutting in and out at? Second, from what I keep reading the general concensus is to fit the switch in the radiator bottom hose? Or is there a better location? Cheers.
  14. Thanks all. (and sorry for the slow reply - clearly my notificagtion settings are not right...) Is it possible to fit an oil cooler to this gearbox? It's running a bit warm in the cab and the heat seems to be coming from the gearbox. Anyone know what the temp should be? and If you can fit a temp switch or sensor to give a warning of excessive heat or fit a temp gauge?
  15. Hi. My first post so please bear with me... I have an F reg Defender 90 V8 3.5l (also my first Land Rover) and I'm trying to get to grips with one or two things. I was told when I bought it that is is an original V8 Staition Wagon (and Paddock Spares have confirmed the original V8 from the Reg) but one or two things don't quite add up. Nothing major but it just got me thinking. Today I wen hunting for serial numbers but I couldn't find anything on the transfer box or gearbox in any of the locations provided by the font of all knpowledge that is google. Any help in identifying them would be most appreciated. The gearbox has R-1-3-5 forward and 2-4 aft which makes me think LT77 but then there are other things that make me wonder - it splits in half forward to aft along the centreline and doesn't look like the LT77 boxes that I've seen on google... I've attached some photos, appologies for the poor quality, but can anyone help identify these? Also where is the best place to look up engine serial numbers as that one I could find! Thanks all.
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