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Badger110

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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About Badger110

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  1. I didn't think it would cut something as thick as 7mm steel. I have a huge sheet of 3mm steel that needs cutting down, this would've been perfect
  2. Interesting stuff. Looks to be overseas market only then. Would be great if we could get a close up picture of one
  3. Thank you Mike, perfect for viewing up close. The window does open enough to shove your elbow out which is the main point i was thinking. I've collected a few spare one piece doors to have a play with and my first thought is how to incorporate the lock on the sliding windows. Rather than pay silly money for the door tops, perhaps if i can source the glass, or even have some made, it would be a case of gathering the various channels and runners and see where it gets me
  4. Well i've picked up a pair of scrapper doors for a ยฃ10, so i'll have something to play with for starters. I'm ignoring the pair of miltary front doors on ebay at the moment ๐Ÿ˜Ž talking of military doors, can someone clear up some confusion here. Does the glass open further on the sloping windows compared to a series straight window? Do both sections of glass open on the military and on the series or just the military?
  5. and back over https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/amp/uk-scotland-south-scotland-51502665?fbclid=IwAR1qDYjb9CR6mjWROq83kr4y7QxPRHmssizWsNUtm1DRRTkotVseo7tgid4
  6. There are some great pointers made already, i'll add a few more. Sound is directional until you hit lower frequencies and with engines, gearbox's, drivetrains, road noise and all sorts of other things, one type of sound deadening will struggle to eliminate all noise. You need to incorporate various types and understand it's usage. Stiffening panels is a good start. Using products like silent coat or dynamatt will help in this way but use it sparingly. Pictures of footwells or the underside of the bonnet plastered in the stuff is purely a gimmick for you to part with your cash. Any company doing this deserves avoidance. You want to stiffen the panel, so add 2-3 inch strips until the panel has a more ' dead ' sound rather than a tinny sound. Remember these products don't stop sound travelling through, they provide stiffness and thus help reduce flex and vibration which comes across as ' noise '. ( point to note, the product can provide a barrier to noise as they have mass, but it's tiny and would prove very expensive to use it to eliminate noise alone ) Foams like a closed cell foam help absorb it's effects but they work best when left exposed. If you cover up a foam then you reduce it's ability to soak up noise and here is where it becomes a little difficult to balance everything with foam and stiffening alone. The final part is Mass. Providing a mass that will help absorb sound is another way to quieten things down. Using dense rubber stuck to the panels underneath a layer of foam will help quite alot. I've used rubber mat's to drop the lower frequency ( bass from a speaker ) from travelling through walls etc. I would use a stiffener to the panel first, then a dense rubber mat and finally a closed cell foam on top. This work's in the cab area very well but it also highlights other problems like the seals around your doors as suddenely they are much more noticable. For the bonnet, i really wouldn't waste any money on it personally. The noise outside the vehicle is not going to change the noise you hear inside..the engine is sat in front of you with a thin piece of metal to stop the noise between you and it. I stripped out my dash and found land rover's idea of sound deadening laughable as it wasn't even covering the multitude of gromets and holes in the bulkhead and of the square meterage of bulkhead, about 40% was covered by their effort from the factory (2011 model ). Landy's were designed to be workhorses, they were never designed to be quiet inside but you can get them to a decent noise level in the cab with some simple practices. A few links to help; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BSBMFBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015RI1GJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. Let's hope it's not the ' you know who ' chinese variety...๐Ÿ˜ฒ Take it easy
  8. This thread was as interesting as anything else Iโ€™ve read today ๐Ÿ˜€ well done Peaklander ๐Ÿ‘
  9. Decision has been made to go ahead with swapping out the current doors and fitting either earlier split doors or one piece and shoe horn sliding windows into the frame. There are a few questions though
  10. I once drove my 200Tdi from Devon to Newcastle and back on used veg oil mixed with a little diesel Got me there and back but did cause some issues later on
  11. When you look at single piece doors, the cappings are obviously not there. In my mind, adding cappings to a 2 piece would look out of place, however as you have just explained, the capping goes along the tub anyway beyond the doors. So you learn something new everyday
  12. Those sloping ones are becoming a tad elusive and expensive when you do find some. I found some on Ebay at the ยฃ330 for just the top of the door Does anyone have a measurement for the opening on the sloping style early/military ones compared to the series?
  13. The main idea for the slide windows is simplicity as well freeing up the door interiors to fit them with decent sound & insulation which isnโ€™t really possible with windup windows given their thickness. Iโ€™m happy to entertain the idea of sliding windows on an all in one door with lift up handles, I do like a challenge or another project
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