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Badger110

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About Badger110

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    Devon

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  1. Indeed it is! Fitted the solar panel to the roof and wired that up to a MPPT to the AGM battery. When fitted, the solar panel charges the AGM and the main battery, however i have a VSR fitted between the 2, excuse my ignorance, but does the VSR allow flow both ways? I understand the VSR opens when voltage hits a certain point ( 13.6v? ) to allow charge to the AGM battery from the alternator, but should it also open if the AGM battery is receiving charge and hits 13.6v also? When i crank the engine, both batteries drop voltage to 12.6v which shouldn't happen with a VSR fitted.
  2. I had one pass me by on the M6 the other week, i never gave it a second glance until the wife said ' that's a different looking car ' and pointed it out.
  3. A few more bits done to the build, the main one being the heating and shower set up. I have 2 webasto thermo top c's kicking about which i was planning to fit one to the engine as a pre heater and 1 for heating/hot water set up. There are many ways to heat water in a vehicle or a boat or even your off grid spoon wittling shack in the woods and i've studied them all. I took Webasto's idea as it was the more simplier way and reduced a need to fit bulky items and tweeked it abit for my own needs; Firstly i made a small box in the rear quarter section of the Landy which was previously used to house the Propane bottle. In here i fitted the Webasto, a 12v pump and the heat exchanger. To the right of the opening, i fitted a bullfinch shower outlet The expansion tank is inside the Landy bolted to the rear panel, it's fairly slim so it's not in the way, this was the one i used; I have also fitted this Fan heat exchanger (FHE) to provide heat; The entire system is in fact 2 seperate water feeds ( as in the diagram ) The webasto side is pretty much a closed loop with water/anti freeze looping from the Webasto>PHE (plate heat exchanger )> FHE > Expansion tank > then back to the Webasto and so provides a loop. The shower/pump side is purely based on water drawn via the pump. The water is heated by passing through the PHE when the webasto is running. The system is designed to be used as; Heating for the truck ( via the FHE ) Hot shower using the mixer head Cold water feed for collecting water If we're using the shower outside, we don't have to have the heating on in the truck by not turning the fan on. Hot water circulates around the system but isn't introduced to the living area unless we want it. When the heating is on, we isolate the cold water pump to stop any heat travelling from the PHE. Webasto's have a temperature cut off about 40c and with the shower running, it'll hit this after 15 minutes ( on a hot day ) and cycle down for 10 minutes. If we have the heating on , i get 20 minutes of heat and cycle down for 10, again this has been tested on a hot day. I can lengthen the running times by extending the return pipe from FHE to maybe go outside or even i've considered running it along the floor of the cab to cool it down and provide underfloor heating, but i'm confident at the moment it will good to keep the truck warm through cycling every 30minutes or so. Cheers
  4. Ssshhh don't tell her that! I said you'd be wearing a kilt and everything!
  5. Good evening! I am still here, albeit not online as much, life gets in the way with one thing or another How are you doing up there? I threatened the missus we'd seek out geniune Scottish fabricator who could teach us a wee bit when we leave on our travels I must post some more updates to the build, it's a labour of love and i'm still enjoying it when i can
  6. Live work in my opinion is working on live cables from distribution to the meter/isolator, after that you isolate the supply, therefore not live. It’s horses for courses, what you’re happy doing, you do
  7. No reason why the tyre can’t be used as well The more footholds the merrier the traveller will be in times of need
  8. There is no live work. 80/100 amp fuse is pulled before tails from meter to a new metal JB for the connection of the SWA which runs to your new CU. Obviously it’s all done back to front and the connection is the last bit I’m not savvy on Scottish building regs, so you don’t need a ticket for electrical works on planning builds?
  9. The electrician’s job is pretty simple in this situation if I’m honest and if you have a decent brain you can quite easily do it yourself, however, if it’s under planning it has to signed off. If you don’t have a friendly electrician who knows your work then you’re paying for the ticket at the end. It’s not rocket science for domestic installs, commercial is a different ball game.
  10. I stripped the bongo seat for the frame work as there’s some decent sized tube which makes it up. At the base was a curved piece which would make a good step for the bars cut it out and welded it onto the bar the curved seat base had lots welded to it which needed removing, then tidying up. Welding 2 separate thickness bits together was a learning curve but it’s turned out all right. The horizontal part is a perfect step up onto the bonnet now I’m thinking of welding some loops to the underside of the bar in case I get a moose and need to strap it across the bonnet
  11. I’ve come cross a few I.D.Ten.Tee issues in the past. You can say it as much as you like because no one writes it down I.D.10.T
  12. It is a snatch bullbar 👍 As for cooling, i'm not convinced there will be a problem. I've removed a full sized A/C condenser which was slap bang in front the intercooler and radiator. Also i've removed the surround which housed the front grill which took up a large part of the actual area availble for the radiator ( if you take the distance between the front wings, bumper and bonnet ). I'm not saying it's better, but there hasn't been any difference in temperature that i've registered. Snatch landrover bullbars have been used all over the world in all environments and as yet, i've not come across issues with them overheating. Even in NI we used them on 300Tdi's
  13. The bull bar has a spare wheel attached to it, it’s solid enough in its design and is bolted through the bumper by 8 bolts ( 4 through the front of the chassis, 4 into the bumper ) The bumper is a generic, not HD and I’ve welded some 3mm plate across the bottom where the bolts go through as well as horizontally inside the bumper to beef it up abit. My thinking is, the bars along the wing down to the rock slider will absorb some movement should I bump anything head on as well as provide a wee bit of protection to the wings. lastly, the bars are great for getting up onto the bonnet to access the box up top
  14. Roll cage saddle. I've ordered 2 from the guy who sold me the tube, cheers Lrf
  15. Also today my tube arrived for the extension down the side of the wing from the bull bar. I had a rough idea of how i wanted it to look, and it was a simple case of cut it and see. So i did and this is what i came up with; A few spot welds I shall weld it onto the bull bar. The other end is bolted to the rock slider. It does mean if i ever remove the bullbar, the 2 side bars are attached, but it's not the end of the world, i simply place the entire thing on the floor in situ. I couldn't come up with a neat feature to have the entire extra bar seperate. Looking level; Tomorrow i will make up the other side then weld them both up.
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