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About Badger110

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  1. Why is it when you're on a roll, something turns up and you end up doign soemthign completely differetn? Finally managed to clear the workshop and get rid of 2 trips to the tip's worth of stuff, but in the meantime i did manage to resin the edges of the internal timbers and get the internal grp all sprayed up. Next on the list is to re spray the entire roof in Buckingham Blue, the same as the truck itself. I'm ordering some paint from Ebay ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-BUCKINGHAM-BLUE-796-2K-SOLVENT-BASECOAT-CAR-PAINT-MIX-READY-FOR-USE/303252110700?hash=item469b3bfd6c:m:m1Yp1JwaQ_SJkfStkyyzcwg ) which look sok for what i want. I've nto done this sort of thing before so it'll be a learning curve. I'll keep you posted with some pics as i go along
  2. Aco drains are the norm for the drainage side in front of the doors, however if you can slope the slab away from the doors and fit the aco further away, then you are removing the notion of any standing water near the doors ( if they're wood ) I think the key is to be able to seal the bottom of the door to stop draughts etc entering the workshop as well being waterproof to some extent. Having a flat entrance will pose difficulties in sealing and water resistant as over time, things move. Our up and over garage door has a flat piece of rubber at the bottom to reduce draughts and water ingress, but we also have a small step ( 15 mm ) that the door sits against which helps hugely in water getting in
  3. When i purchased our swingaway, i was told it was an original for drop down tailgates ( MOD stock ) and came with a plate to pick up the door when mounting to a standard door. It is for a S3/90/110/Defender, not sure it'll fit the 80 as your tailgate bracket may be in the way, but i can take some measurements for you It's bolted at the cross member and at the capping point...however not sure how it would clip to a tailgate, but i'm sure there is a way If your interested in it, let me know. £50 and it's yours but you'll have to sort postage or courier 👍
  4. Some folk clean them... Bonkers in my mind
  5. As Snagger said, it's unlikely your issue was caused by load on the roof, the crease in the roof looks to be from a sideways or upwards pressure, probably the later imho. has the roof been straightened since the picture? If not the stress will be evident all the time?
  6. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-south-scotland-51119771 Last time was a few years ago
  7. What you have quoted is for a standard roof set up where tyvek is used to replace older bitumen style underlay and is an accepted way of doing it by building control. The picture is a snapshot of a possible set up that Tyvek show as a way of doing it, but i've never come across this set up as i can see so much wrong with it, especially the notion that moisture can travel through the timbers. You'd be looking at securing your tiles to a system which will break down and rot over time if exposed to moisture. You could argue that timber batens have the same possible outcome, however timber batens are designed to sit beneath a roof which, if installed correctly, shouldn't allow mositure to penetrate. In the real world this isn't the case in many respects, but i've replaced bitumen style underlay on 60 year houses and the timber batens are still doing their job. Like you said, it's academical as you're placing an airspace above the insulation anyway. Look forward to your progress, although if it's anything like the 65mph winds and rain we have at the moment, i can't see you up the roof much today!
  8. I think the 2019 project is the 2020 project and probably the 2021 as well 😁 Added to this project, i would like to work out how to put swivel front seats in the landy and then do it.
  9. Is the discolouration due to moisture? Airlfow isn't a 100% answer to zero condensation, it can still happen in some circumstances. Airflow will always assist in drying out the cavity should moisture gather.
  10. Perhaps we’re at cross purposes here 😉 Your picture shows a standard roof with loft insulation between the joists and no insulation in the rafters. In this scenario, you really should still have some form of vent within the roof to allow air to flow through the loft, no roof should be sealed without proper air management. The temperature fluctuations during the year will promote unstable air within a sealed system. I was under the impression you were insulating the rafters ( the pitch timbers ) which requires an air gap behind the insulation. a cold roof system is this ( this shows a flat roof system, but it’s the same principal for any cold roof system ) so to clarify, if you’re insulating the joists ( the horizontal timbers ) then either vents or allowing the air to flow through the roof will suffice. if you’re insulating the rafters ( the pitch timbers ) then an gap is needed behind the insulation.
  11. The tyvek on top of your ply has nothing to do with condensation build up or air moving over the top side of the plywood. If a room is warm and the roof is cold, the meeting of both elements have the ability to produce condensation at some point. As you are constructing a cold roof scenario, an air gap is needed in the way you are doing this with a 50mm gap between the insulation ( the warm side ) and the underside of the ply ( the cold side ) You will need vents at the ridge unless you tie both sides with a horizontal ceiling which allows air movement to flow from one side to another. With onduline sheets it is probably a better solution for you. Even with a warm roof construction, a physical barrier ( usually dpc sheeting ) between both materials is needed due to condensation build up in the tiny gaps left when laying the insualtion.
  12. Plywood is abit overkill in this situation, but if you had some left over then all good 👍 Remember your air gap when insulating between the rafters, otherwise condensation will accumilate.
  13. Sounds like the cable has slipped on the cogs, or the motor is loose
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