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Badger110

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Badger110 last won the day on October 24 2022

Badger110 had the most liked content!

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  1. When this became popular as a replacement for felted flat roofing , there were quite a few skip fires n such where tradesman would shove all the waste back in the 15 liter tub it came in, put the lid on and throw it in the skip….
  2. It is the 2.0l version, after the 2.5 which I think they swapped out in 2011. I believe the sprinters and crafters were manufactured on the same line until 2016 before they went their separate ways, hence asking if they shared the same engine. As for what I’m using it for, it’s for work as I needed another van with a higher interior but once I’m inside it with a tape measure I know I’m going to be looking at converting it…
  3. I have purchased a VW crafter 2014 SWB as a project, does it share the same engine as yours?
  4. A very well thought out and awesome build! It's something we've considered but we'd need to sell the Landy to fund it and therein lies the problem. I can't bring myself to sell it at the moment
  5. Yeah i'm late too, so Happy new year instead. In my defence I was on my honeymoon
  6. Missing it all already, did you have any issue getting into W.Sah with the border? Some have said there is no issue, others have been turned away or escorted. Keep the pictures coming, i do love an adventure
  7. The reason I mentioned CT1 is it does have some flexibility, albeit not a lot. Whether it’s suitable temperature wise remains to be seen..
  8. A MAF sensor won't cause the car to slow or go into limp mode, i know this as mine was unplugged for a week or 2 before i plugged it back in. A faulty sensor may cause unwanted signals to the ecu though, try running the car with it unplugged. I'd be looking at a few things to start with; 1. VCV 2. Fuel pressure release valve 3. Fuel line trace to the fuel cooler on the inside chassis rail NS just below the engine mount. Check the fittings. 4. Fuel filter housing 5. Head temp sensor The fuel is returned to the main tank or circulated back to the VCV based on temperature, if you have any small discrepancies with the fuel lines/filter housings etc, it will introduce air to the system and will cause power loss. This happens as the heated fuel opens up the plastic fittings of the filter housing. Check my thread of trying to find and finally solving my issue which was very similar to yours On inspection of the filter housing, i could not find a crack or failure, but replacing it worked for me.
  9. Exactly. spending a little more for less hassle in the long run can make for an easy life 👍
  10. I believe you can over think where to have your panels, mine are approximately 10 degrees from flat on the roof to stop rain pooling on it. Never had an issue with powering the previous 3 batteries or the current 2.
  11. It doesn’t I’m afraid. The actuator sits proud at about the same protrusion as the door lock body rear face if that makes sense? Is it possible to mount your door card proud of the door using spacers to allow the actuator, rod and swivel piece to sit behind it all? I guess that’s going to be governed by the clearance when the rear door is shut.
  12. Something in the back my mind is telling me you can’t get a matched door lock/ignition set for pre puma and pumas. I did the opposite to what you are doing, put older doors on a puma and I couldn’t get matching door locks to the ignition as they’re an older design on the door. With a modern key set/lock than your ignition barrel, can you fit the newer style ignition or is there a kit which will work?
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