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Badger110

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Badger110

  1. In reality you’ll be busy faffing swapping the low to high and engaging the gears the lose momentum and after a few attempts, your temper😂 By the time you’ve cracked it, you’ll probably run out of hill 😁
  2. Finally getting somewhere with the fuel issue. I stripped the wiring loom down to check for any faults within it as the problem was related to the engine being at running temperature. I found nothing in this area and re wrapped certain areas in fibreglassed wrap with metal cable ties and heat resistant cloth tape. Finding nothing I moved onto the next idea which was to install a clear fuel line from the last elbow of the fuel line to the rear of the hp fuel pump in the hope that I could see air being introduced to the fuel line, thus maybe finding an issue before the f
  3. I love Kinder Bueno's as well.
  4. I’m looking at the re routing where possible to keep some of the cable away from major heat, in fact the crankshaft sensor and alternator cable are the worst hit as they sit below the exhaust. I have a glass mat which can be wrapped and secured with metal ties coming tomorrow. The loom has been removed, stripped of all conduit and tape and methodically checked today for any signs of damage and other than a few cables into the turbo actuator controller splitting their out cable, it does all look to be in good shape
  5. I had 2 of these, ear piece speaker went on the first one and the second one just died after a few months. Certainly tough, but the internals didn't turn out to be that good.
  6. In my ever lasting quest to work out the issue in the truck, I’m going to remove the wiring loom, check it and re wrap it in a suitable heat resistant wrap. There are many online but does anyone have a recommendation to something they’ve used in the past? Rather than a sleeve as that requires me to remove plugs and connectors which I don’t wish to do , I’m looking for a bandage like wrap
  7. The fuel is dragged through from the tank via the filter with no pre warming, however It is cooled on the return line via a fuel cooler which determines whether the fuel on the return goes back to the tank or re circulated via the filter. I've ordered some push on clips and 5 metres of clear fuel hose. I shall make up a line from the last joint before the pump, feed it into the cab and back to the pump so I can see if any air is being introduced to the pump when the fuel pressure is high and the engine is at temperature. If everything is good from that point of view th
  8. A good point and one I've thought of, however I've checked the fuel lines methodically yesterday and can't find any faults with them. I've also replaced the VCV and the pressure release valve as a process of elimination as well as de tuned and returned the ECU to stock settings. This has helped somewhat with the running but I think this is more to do with the fact the engine isn't requiring higher fuel rates in stock mode. I have noticed the engine is ' noisier ' than before, and I'm wondering if the timing is slightly out and could this cause a failure of fuel at high
  9. hehe not sure It was worth it with the hassle I've had since! Now the truck will drop fuel pressure when it gets to temperature and conk out. Before that, it runs perfectly. I'm stumped as to what's causing it as nothing is showing up as a fault.
  10. Not that I can tell...the small opening to the right is the bell housing but that’s not showing any signs of oil from the bottom where you’d expect it with a leaking rear seal.
  11. Tracing an odd oil leak has thrown up a wet oil patch here what I don’t understand is why this area is wet with old blackish oil ( several oil changes since the rebuild so most oil weeps I’ve found are clearer ) The egr valve sits in front of it which contains no oil and I can’t see a trace of oil from behind the head so I’m stumped...
  12. With a group of likeminded individuals the topic doesn’t always stay on course from the opening sentence, that’s human nature to continue a conversation, it moves within the subject. Everyone here is respectful of the situation and the topic
  13. An oil leak due to faulty injector seals turned into a complete top end rebuild with a reconditioned head, new Vacumn pump, coolant pump, clutch kit and now, possibly another new VCV if the feckin thing don't start behaving!
  14. What you have there is a simple scenario in that he doesn't charge you any hire for you having it and you don't charge him storage for keeping it at your place
  15. Thank you all for your knowledge in working out what I have and what it can do. Originally the caravan was going to sit on our land and be used as an extra living accommodation at certain times of the year and be connected to a 240v feed permanently so there was no need to worry about the 12v side of things. However, times have changed and we have now decided to use it as a touring caravan to be located around the country and Europe at certain times and become a base as we travel and I was looking to reinstate the original wiring set up. Looking at this uni
  16. I'm finding some success, the unit is a MiKO MK 240 It was fitted to Hobby, Tabbert & LMC caravans. I also found this, but it's not in English, but does give the diagram for the unit https://caravantrekker.nl/vragen/images/aansluitschema_12v_caravan.pdf
  17. Ok, thank you all, the caravan is a Hobby 620 Prestige, circa 2003. I'll try to energise the relays when I get back, here's a picture of the complete unit but no labels with a model number on them except this one
  18. Totally off topic but there is some knowledge on here about 12v systems so maybe someone can help as I’m limited on elastictrickery. I’m trying to sort the electrics out on our German ( I can’t find anything online about it ) caravan and we have a distribution panel which brings a 240 & 12 v input, then distributes it via a 240v and 12v outlets. it looks to be a simple set up but the 12v side isn’t working on the outlets. ive tested the transformer and it’s outputting 13.7 & 14.2v but after these 2 objects there is no voltage so I’m assuming these are at faul
  19. The gremlins have been at it again, this time the vacumn pump failed spectacularly this morning on the way to a new job, I carried on but had to call recovery on the way home as it was threatening to melt the ancillary belt
  20. 500710 https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/500710
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