Badger110

When this became popular as a replacement for felted flat roofing , there were quite a few skip fires n such where tradesman would shove all the waste back in the 15 liter tub it came in, put the lid on and throw it in the skip….

It is the 2.0l version, after the 2.5 which I think they swapped out in 2011. I believe the sprinters and crafters were manufactured on the same line until 2016 before they went their separate ways, hence asking if they shared the same engine. As for what I’m using it for, it’s for work as I needed another van with a higher interior but once I’m inside it with a tape measure I know I’m going to be looking at converting it…

I have purchased a VW crafter 2014 SWB as a project, does it share the same engine as yours?

A very well thought out and awesome build! It's something we've considered but we'd need to sell the Landy to fund it and therein lies the problem. I can't bring myself to sell it at the moment

Yeah i'm late too, so Happy new year instead. In my defence I was on my honeymoon

In Brooklyn today and met our American cousin

Missing it all already, did you have any issue getting into W.Sah with the border? Some have said there is no issue, others have been turned away or escorted. Keep the pictures coming, i do love an adventure

The reason I mentioned CT1 is it does have some flexibility, albeit not a lot. Whether it’s suitable temperature wise remains to be seen..

100c I believe for ct1

A MAF sensor won't cause the car to slow or go into limp mode, i know this as mine was unplugged for a week or 2 before i plugged it back in. A faulty sensor may cause unwanted signals to the ecu though, try running the car with it unplugged. I'd be looking at a few things to start with; 1. VCV 2. Fuel pressure release valve 3. Fuel line trace to the fuel cooler on the inside chassis rail NS just below the engine mount. Check the fittings. 4. Fuel filter housing 5. Head temp sensor The fuel is returned to the main tank or circulated back to the VCV based on temperature, if you have any small discrepancies with the fuel lines/filter housings etc, it will introduce air to the system and will cause power loss. This happens as the heated fuel opens up the plastic fittings of the filter housing. Check my thread of trying to find and finally solving my issue which was very similar to yours On inspection of the filter housing, i could not find a crack or failure, but replacing it worked for me.

Or CT1

Exactly. spending a little more for less hassle in the long run can make for an easy life 👍

I believe you can over think where to have your panels, mine are approximately 10 degrees from flat on the roof to stop rain pooling on it. Never had an issue with powering the previous 3 batteries or the current 2.

It doesn’t I’m afraid. The actuator sits proud at about the same protrusion as the door lock body rear face if that makes sense? Is it possible to mount your door card proud of the door using spacers to allow the actuator, rod and swivel piece to sit behind it all? I guess that’s going to be governed by the clearance when the rear door is shut.

Something in the back my mind is telling me you can’t get a matched door lock/ignition set for pre puma and pumas. I did the opposite to what you are doing, put older doors on a puma and I couldn’t get matching door locks to the ignition as they’re an older design on the door. With a modern key set/lock than your ignition barrel, can you fit the newer style ignition or is there a kit which will work?

Not much room in the back from the pictures? I do like the centre console being flat all the way to the dash/bulkhead...no silly places to get clogged with dog hair/mud/sweetwrappers/coins etc

Having rebuilt the Tdci , the timing chain hadn’t been an issue at 160k. I did replace the chain at 170k and in my build thread you can see the difference between a 100k chain and a new, but it was never was noisy in my opinion even though the chain had stretched and the guide was worn. Tdci’s are a world away from older LR driven Landy’s in so many ways. Replacing a chain isn’t difficult if your handy with your spanner’s, no special tools needed, just lots of silicone around the seals when done 😉

I saw those cyclone's for a standard vacuum and they look brilliant. A smaller version of a standard workshop extractor idea, they save on clogging up expensive vacuums

These are ok lights, i've ended up replacing 1 or 2 on a 14 light run in a large workshop, but it's not very cost effective to have to replace the entire unit. The ones i've fitted have a switch inside to allow you to swap between 3 colour modes 4000k/5000k/6500k

I may have found one that ticks the right boxes and at a good price. I may be loitering around these hallowed halls bit more, we shall see.

yup that's him...lots of cats about too. Nikki named his cat Tom, not sure he had any idea what she was on about

That's a posh version with seats in, must be Navy

It's uncanny how they pulled this off https://www.maxim.com/rides/this-custom-land-rover-defender-is-inspired-by-the-iconic-chinook-helicopter/ Some might say it's a green 110 with a cargo net in the back

If you get into Foum Zguid, drop into the restaurant on the roundabout, the chap there does some great food.

I made some 40mm brackets using 3mm steel box section with 4 holes drilled in them to bolt to the original chassis bracket (110 Tdci) After the exceptional use on the latest trip with a slightly top heavy 110 I can report there are no deformed brackets