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Everything posted by Badger110

  1. A little more wood work progress today. The hole in the roof is obviously a large part of the structure gone and other than the overall strength of the roof which will be beefed up with steel box section at a later date, i wanted to stiffen up the roof and allow the bellows frame to sit onto something substantial. The idea is to follow the curve of the roof and have it ' sandwiched ' between 2 pieces whilst giving it some rigidness for the upper frame work to be latched onto. Using 18mm phenolic BB plywood, i cut the first template out and fitted to get the curves correct or as near as Obviously this is too large for what i want, so i slimmed it down to 40mm and did another one for the rear Next was to make the top part which is glued and screwed through the roof into the lower part Firstly you will see the uneveness of the initial roof cutout, so this was grinded off to provide a nice clean finish. At this point i was called away as we had an injured buzzard that needed assistance. After the vet's visit and settling him at home for the night, i was back into the workshop but didn't take any more pictures. I'll add some tomorrow after i've doen the next bit of woodwork along this opening
  2. Sounds like it’s doing the job well for you 👍 Have you looked at any of the other 12v range? Having a autoimmune disease all my life and the nature of my jobs, I’m very wary of how heavy tools impact your body when in use. I switched to using mainly 12v tools and leaving the 18v unless I really need it 12v grinders for metal work are so easy and light with a decent amount of power to tackle most panel work or bolt cutting without the weight of heavier 18v or 240v versions.
  3. How're you getting on with your actuators? I've ordered some off Ebay, they claim to be suitable for the weight i'm lifting and surprisingly they are identical to the manual rams currently fitted, so i'm hoping praying for a simple swap and away i go!
  4. Ordered some Linear Actuators to replace the spring loaded arms. Direct size replacement with a 150kg lifting load per arm, the roof being about 65kg and there being a pair, they should be more than adequate. Fitted the bellows material to the roof, lots of silicone adhesive along the joints and fitted the aluminium strip to the inside this time. This should be pretty bullet proof as much as sticking material to a GRP roof can be! Outside edge; inside edge; Once the material was done, it was time to redo the timber frame for the base of the material. I used bits n bobs to get the template correct the other day but this time i cut it from a single sheet. The drip edge was formed using cable conduit with a 1/4ish cut out; This then sits on the edge like this; I also re cut the hinge timber with phenolic ply, that's currently glued and clamped, i'll post up pics when ready
  5. Mine is due for renewal and in the past I’ve been lucky and unlucky. unlucky as it’s a defender on car insurance so I have no ncb’s lucky because some insurance companies see it as a van and thus I get it under a van insurance with 11 yrs ncb. ( it’s a USW ) last year I couldn’t get it with anyone as a ‘ van ‘ so had to go with a car insurance This year, with additions to it, I shall go with either AF or NFU
  6. Lights in central strip light will probably be on with the interior lights and an override switch
  7. I don’t know the company other than driving past and seeing muddy trucks outside the building so can’t really comment but there has been some concerns lately about them. facebook post yesterday regarding them doesn’t look good i cant share here, I’ll pm you
  8. ‘The same happened when I worked for Harley Davidson, the water cooled V rod was the start of something very different for the company. Turned out that it didn’t follow the same story with being better than the air cooled V twin, you just can’t replace that. It also cost me my training spot in Milwaukee, but I wasn’t bitter and left the company a year later...but that’s another story.
  9. Edge is down the road from me, I imagine they ship the kits from overseas hence the delay. they are a small workshop/garage set up.
  10. Whilst waiting for the roof paint to arrive, I figured I’d do things a little backwards and finish the interior roof of the GRP shell. The main roof was wheeled outside for some room and it was time to start Firstly was the introduction of a spinning vent in the roof. When travelling with dogs ( big ones as well ) they tend to pant a lot causing moist air to accumulate in the Landy so I wanted to fit one of these vents to help with airflow inside. Drilling a 100mm hole in a perfectly good roof is definitely a measure twice three times and drill once moment and in case you’re wondering what that looks like, here’s a picture It was drilled in the only place possible but in hindsight, it could’ve done with being on the other side of the central rib due to the light position which I worked out after I drilled the hole. We live n learn The internal ‘ceiling ‘ was lined with wadding to soften it and I fixed the cables for the lighting at this stage too. 1 flexible necked light in each upper corner and a single 1metre strip light along the middle I also sleeved the vent hole to stop moisture being introduced to the insulation of the roof with an old aluminium pipe carrier I cut up here’s another wadding picture After the wiring and wadding was done it was time to fit the carpet This is my first attempt at this sort of thing and the result is alright. The larger windows around the edges needs tidying up as they don’t come with surrounds like the smaller ones, but I’ll come up with something for them. There is a 15mm gap all around the edge which allows the fitting of the bellows to the roof and illl show how that goes in another post
  11. and thus it becomes clear https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-chassis/body/rear-body-upper_52730#1 Standard fitting on some models perhaps
  12. Well that's interesting. did yours open? ignore that, i can see they don't.
  13. I liek these windows but i've never seen them before. Are they standard or aftermarket?
  14. Not rolled, but surprised. i could never work out emoji pictures too well
  15. Narrow tracks were built to follow the wheels of series axles widths wide tracks were built to follow defender axles widths Narrow tracks are older with older brakes, tow hitch set ups but built like brick **** houses wide tracks are newer running gear with disc brakes on the latest versions I reckon unless your going to be using them at the maximum loads, either one will suit your needs
  16. Why is it when you're on a roll, something turns up and you end up doign soemthign completely differetn? Finally managed to clear the workshop and get rid of 2 trips to the tip's worth of stuff, but in the meantime i did manage to resin the edges of the internal timbers and get the internal grp all sprayed up. Next on the list is to re spray the entire roof in Buckingham Blue, the same as the truck itself. I'm ordering some paint from Ebay ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-BUCKINGHAM-BLUE-796-2K-SOLVENT-BASECOAT-CAR-PAINT-MIX-READY-FOR-USE/303252110700?hash=item469b3bfd6c:m:m1Yp1JwaQ_SJkfStkyyzcwg ) which look sok for what i want. I've nto done this sort of thing before so it'll be a learning curve. I'll keep you posted with some pics as i go along
  17. Aco drains are the norm for the drainage side in front of the doors, however if you can slope the slab away from the doors and fit the aco further away, then you are removing the notion of any standing water near the doors ( if they're wood ) I think the key is to be able to seal the bottom of the door to stop draughts etc entering the workshop as well being waterproof to some extent. Having a flat entrance will pose difficulties in sealing and water resistant as over time, things move. Our up and over garage door has a flat piece of rubber at the bottom to reduce draughts and water ingress, but we also have a small step ( 15 mm ) that the door sits against which helps hugely in water getting in
  18. When i purchased our swingaway, i was told it was an original for drop down tailgates ( MOD stock ) and came with a plate to pick up the door when mounting to a standard door. It is for a S3/90/110/Defender, not sure it'll fit the 80 as your tailgate bracket may be in the way, but i can take some measurements for you It's bolted at the cross member and at the capping point...however not sure how it would clip to a tailgate, but i'm sure there is a way If your interested in it, let me know. £50 and it's yours but you'll have to sort postage or courier 👍
  19. Some folk clean them... Bonkers in my mind
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