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Badger110

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Posts posted by Badger110

  1. 1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

    It's often easier to admit defeat and just bin the fluffy each time just remember it can get hot as it cures. 

    When this became popular as a replacement for felted flat roofing , there were quite a few skip fires n such where tradesman would shove all the waste back in the 15 liter tub it came in, put the lid on and throw it in the skip….

  2. On 3/28/2023 at 10:34 AM, task said:

    @muddy is right, the Crafter uses the 2.0 VW TDI, it's a good engine, had one in my previous Transporter of the same vintage.

     

    What are the plans for it?

    It is the 2.0l version, after the 2.5 which I think they swapped out in 2011. 
     

    I believe the sprinters and crafters were manufactured on the same line until 2016 before they went their separate ways, hence asking if they shared the same engine.

     

    As for what I’m using it for, it’s for work as I needed another van with a higher interior but once I’m inside it with a tape measure I know I’m going to be looking at converting it…

    • Like 2
  3. A MAF sensor won't cause the car to slow or go into limp mode, i know this as mine was unplugged for a week or 2 before i plugged it back in.  

    A faulty sensor may cause unwanted signals to the ecu though, try running the car with it unplugged.

     

    I'd be looking at a few things to start with;

     

    1. VCV 

    2. Fuel pressure release valve

    3. Fuel line trace to the fuel cooler on the inside chassis rail NS just below the engine mount. Check the fittings.

    4. Fuel filter housing

    5. Head temp sensor 

     

    The fuel is returned to the main tank or circulated back to the VCV based on temperature, if you have any small discrepancies with the fuel lines/filter housings etc, it will introduce air to the system and will cause power loss.

    This happens as the heated fuel opens up the plastic fittings of the filter housing.

    Check my thread of trying to find and finally solving my issue which was very similar to yours

     

     

    On inspection of the filter housing, i could not find a crack or failure, but replacing it worked for me.

     

     

    • Like 2
  4. I believe you can over think where to have your panels, mine are approximately 10 degrees from flat on the roof to stop rain pooling on it. Never had an issue with powering the previous 3 batteries or the current 2.

    • Like 1
  5. It doesn’t I’m afraid.  
     

    The actuator sits proud at about the same protrusion as the door lock body rear face if that makes sense?

     

    Is it possible to mount your door card proud of the door using spacers to allow the actuator, rod and swivel piece to sit behind it all?  
     

    I guess that’s going to be governed by the clearance when the rear door is shut.

     

  6. Something in the back my mind is telling me you can’t get a matched door lock/ignition set for pre puma and pumas.

     

    I did the opposite to what you are doing, put older doors on a puma and I couldn’t get matching door locks to the ignition as they’re an older design on the door.

    With a modern key set/lock than your ignition barrel, can you fit the newer style ignition or is there a kit which will work?

     

  7. On 11/13/2022 at 9:02 PM, monkie said:

    Sorry to resurrect an old thread... 

    I'm checking out a bunch of Puma powered Defenders with a view to replace my 110.

    Routine replacement of a timing chain is news to me. Are there any obvious signs of a worn chain I can look for whilst inspecting a prospective 110? I take it that if I buy one with no known history of chain replacement then I should budget for getting it sorted? 

    Having rebuilt the Tdci , the timing chain hadn’t been an issue at 160k.

    I did replace the chain at 170k and in my build thread you can see the difference between a 100k chain and a new, but it was never was noisy in my opinion even though the chain had stretched and the guide was worn.

     

    Tdci’s are a world away from older LR driven Landy’s in so many ways.

    Replacing a chain isn’t difficult if your handy with your spanner’s, no special tools needed, just lots of silicone around the seals when done 😉
     

    • Like 3
  8. 14 hours ago, Stephenc said:

    I built a cyclone vac using a 25l metal paint tin and a standard vac. 

    The tin takes all the carp and the vac only has to deal with the finest of dust. Having done it I wouldn't go back. 

     

    I saw those cyclone's for a standard vacuum and they look brilliant.  A smaller version of a standard workshop extractor idea, they save on clogging up expensive vacuums

  9. On 11/7/2022 at 7:49 AM, jason110 said:

    I installed the LAP 5ft led battens from Screwfix. 
     

    absolute doddle to fit. Cool white colour temperature and plenty Light enough. 
     

     

    These are ok lights, i've ended up replacing 1 or 2 on a 14 light run in a large workshop, but it's not very cost effective to have to replace the entire unit. 

     

    The ones i've fitted have a switch inside to allow you to swap between 3 colour modes 4000k/5000k/6500k

  10.  

    1 hour ago, Eightpot said:

    "Inside, there’s a “twin zoned” 2+2 seating configuration with carbon fiber racing seats upholstered in hand-stitched Bridge of Weird leather and sheepskin inserts in a nod to the Chinook’s seating configuration."

     

    Err.. not same 🤔

    interior-chinook-helicopter-grey-red-troop-seats-75446845.jpg

     

    That's a posh version with seats in, must be Navy

    • Like 1
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