Badger110

My roof project should be done in a few weeks and after this the Landy will be pulled into the workshop for the internal build to begin. At this point, i want to start getting intimate with the engine as it's due some TLC. I have noticed when she's cold recently that she is a little ' rattly '. I've always had some smoke until she warms up properly ( from picking her up 2 years ago 146k ) but other than this, she has been faultless so far. History is, 150k mileage with regular oil changes ( service record ) and no issues. I did it's last oil and filter change about 1.6k ago. I also removed the aircon and replaced the injector seals at the same time. I want to change the timing chain as i believe it's due to be done ( no record of having been done ) Whilst i'm in there doing the chain, it would be good to look into something which i noticed today. This weekend just gone, i did a good run upto wales and back ( 500 miles ) with no issues but when i went to leave work i noticed the exhaust outlet was black and oily ( see pic ). The caribener is used to attach dog leads to when we're loading them in and out of the back of the landy and they've always been lightly 'smoked' but it is now black. The engine does get to temperature to and from current work site. So what else should i be looking at whilst the engine has my full attention? I would like to eliminate the smoking on start up and get to the bottom of the black oily exhaust. Any advice or directions to look in would be most welcome.

My thoughts are why didn't they try release this when they were due to launch it? It's been a few months and the impact of that trailer released earlier or even delaying the launch against what we've been fed so far ( which is slow moving convoys of americans in wrap arounds and artistic shots of the desert ) is like chalk and cheese. It could be the kid in me, the music and the association with JB, but that video made me smile with a twang of excitement.

Looks great

I may be buying the bottoms from sp4x4 so that’ll eliminate any fitting issues. I’m still interested in fitting the sliding to a single piece door, it’s a sideline project for now

Clever bugger aren't ya

I didn't think it would cut something as thick as 7mm steel. I have a huge sheet of 3mm steel that needs cutting down, this would've been perfect

Interesting stuff. Looks to be overseas market only then. Would be great if we could get a close up picture of one

Thank you Mike, perfect for viewing up close. The window does open enough to shove your elbow out which is the main point i was thinking. I've collected a few spare one piece doors to have a play with and my first thought is how to incorporate the lock on the sliding windows. Rather than pay silly money for the door tops, perhaps if i can source the glass, or even have some made, it would be a case of gathering the various channels and runners and see where it gets me

I missed it too

Well i've picked up a pair of scrapper doors for a £10, so i'll have something to play with for starters. I'm ignoring the pair of miltary front doors on ebay at the moment 😎 talking of military doors, can someone clear up some confusion here. Does the glass open further on the sloping windows compared to a series straight window? Do both sections of glass open on the military and on the series or just the military?

and back over https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/amp/uk-scotland-south-scotland-51502665?fbclid=IwAR1qDYjb9CR6mjWROq83kr4y7QxPRHmssizWsNUtm1DRRTkotVseo7tgid4

There are some great pointers made already, i'll add a few more. Sound is directional until you hit lower frequencies and with engines, gearbox's, drivetrains, road noise and all sorts of other things, one type of sound deadening will struggle to eliminate all noise. You need to incorporate various types and understand it's usage. Stiffening panels is a good start. Using products like silent coat or dynamatt will help in this way but use it sparingly. Pictures of footwells or the underside of the bonnet plastered in the stuff is purely a gimmick for you to part with your cash. Any company doing this deserves avoidance. You want to stiffen the panel, so add 2-3 inch strips until the panel has a more ' dead ' sound rather than a tinny sound. Remember these products don't stop sound travelling through, they provide stiffness and thus help reduce flex and vibration which comes across as ' noise '. ( point to note, the product can provide a barrier to noise as they have mass, but it's tiny and would prove very expensive to use it to eliminate noise alone ) Foams like a closed cell foam help absorb it's effects but they work best when left exposed. If you cover up a foam then you reduce it's ability to soak up noise and here is where it becomes a little difficult to balance everything with foam and stiffening alone. The final part is Mass. Providing a mass that will help absorb sound is another way to quieten things down. Using dense rubber stuck to the panels underneath a layer of foam will help quite alot. I've used rubber mat's to drop the lower frequency ( bass from a speaker ) from travelling through walls etc. I would use a stiffener to the panel first, then a dense rubber mat and finally a closed cell foam on top. This work's in the cab area very well but it also highlights other problems like the seals around your doors as suddenely they are much more noticable. For the bonnet, i really wouldn't waste any money on it personally. The noise outside the vehicle is not going to change the noise you hear inside..the engine is sat in front of you with a thin piece of metal to stop the noise between you and it. I stripped out my dash and found land rover's idea of sound deadening laughable as it wasn't even covering the multitude of gromets and holes in the bulkhead and of the square meterage of bulkhead, about 40% was covered by their effort from the factory (2011 model ). Landy's were designed to be workhorses, they were never designed to be quiet inside but you can get them to a decent noise level in the cab with some simple practices. A few links to help; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BSBMFBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015RI1GJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let's hope it's not the ' you know who ' chinese variety...😲 Take it easy

This thread was as interesting as anything else I’ve read today 😀 well done Peaklander 👍

Decision has been made to go ahead with swapping out the current doors and fitting either earlier split doors or one piece and shoe horn sliding windows into the frame. There are a few questions though

I once drove my 200Tdi from Devon to Newcastle and back on used veg oil mixed with a little diesel Got me there and back but did cause some issues later on

When you look at single piece doors, the cappings are obviously not there. In my mind, adding cappings to a 2 piece would look out of place, however as you have just explained, the capping goes along the tub anyway beyond the doors. So you learn something new everyday

Those sloping ones are becoming a tad elusive and expensive when you do find some. I found some on Ebay at the £330 for just the top of the door Does anyone have a measurement for the opening on the sloping style early/military ones compared to the series?

The main idea for the slide windows is simplicity as well freeing up the door interiors to fit them with decent sound & insulation which isn’t really possible with windup windows given their thickness. I’m happy to entertain the idea of sliding windows on an all in one door with lift up handles, I do like a challenge or another project

I meant the biscuits! 😂

I didn't like to assume they weren't the norm, hell we've all got a penchant for something posh 😂

I find a laptop/tablet open with LR4x4's search facility a god send.

M&S.... Looking good..i'll be honest i had no idea what you were coming up with, but i figured it'd be good to watch and see

having a look around the SP website, their prices aren't too shabby tbh. Even stuff that isn't made by them is cheaper than most.

I'd kinda agree but on a modern defender, the cappings are going to look abit out of place