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Badger110

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Badger110

  1. I might look at that X-eng one for my set up as my weight is getting a tad top heavy, nothing major or over balanced, but every bit helps
  2. Did you get to the bottom of the issue with this?
  3. After several emails and chats with others who have this kit, we narrowed it down with the help from Gwyn Lewis, to a set up identical to his 3" lift which uses standard or 1" spring increase. List of parts are as follows to get these to fit; For the front ( puma model 110 ) GL1056 Pair Front STD Height H/Duty Turrets (inc Relocator) GALV GL1053 Pair Turret Securing Rings H/Duty GL1054 Pair Front Spring Retainers GL1057B-2 Pair Front Extended Bump Stops BLACK Pair of Puma front brake hoses For the rear ( puma model 110 ) GL1065 Pair Rear Springs re locators Chall 110/130 GL1182 Pair Rear Spring Retainers HD Round 110/130 GL1057B-2 Pair Rear Extended Bump Stops BLACK NRC4317-2 Pair Rear Spring Seats Galv 110/130 Gwyn also said you can fit the cranked trailing arms, but without a modification mount, the rear anti roll bar will have to be removed. I noticed Safari Equip for their extended 120 litre main tank do a relocation kit for the anti roll bar which drops it down...under normal circumstances with a standard tank, this should allow more articulation without causing it to flip over. That kinda clears up the original question as to what is needed/can it be done scenario for fitting 2" extended shocks with standard springs. It's all moot for me now as I bought a set of standard height OME shocks but it may help someone else asking the same question
  4. A big expensive box of shiny engine bits arrived today, it's a shame most of it will never see the light of day as it'll squashed or within the head! I dropped off the camshaft carrier, rocker cover and air intake manifold to be cleaned as well...this has now put me in the position to whip the bottom out of the engine bay and clean that to get rid of the oil and look at the clutch whilst I''m there. Why do we do these things and escalate a simple timing chain/injector reseat into a strip the engine and whip it out the engine bay! On a side note, a set of OME shocks arrived today from @SteveG but ended up at the post office as I wasn't in, so I have them to fit whilst waiting for the head to be finished More shiny stuff!
  5. I’d take 3 years at least, far too much to miss on the way!
  6. I took the head down to be skimmed, valve seats re done and all other manor of bits so I get back a nice shiny reconditioned head and whilst there I showed the chap the cams. He said it's nothing to worry about, there is no sign of roughness or uneven wear looking at them, but he was happy to take a better look and get them measured up so I left them with him to do as well.
  7. It’s looking much roomier in there since the last pic I saw What’s the plan for the chassis, clean and galv or paint or go with the original patina effect 😁
  8. Moving on with the grubby stuff, the engine is becoming more and more stripped out and now we’re at the point of waiting for a delivery from turners & britcar to begin the rebuild....it’s the little things you don’t think of you need like bolts etc...I reckon it’s cost me about £110 in replacement bolts! I also found a hardcore spider who has been living next to the block for however long judging by his web. Here he is coming up for a nosy
  9. Ahh yes I’ve got you if I mount a point on the upper rail and another on the rock slider that could work
  10. I guess it’s hard to capture it on a phone, they obviously aren’t dull like new, but not what I’d call glazed as such. You’d expect some discolouration given the mileage, however it’s not even across the cam. Those closer to the bulkhead on the inlet side are showing more signs of discolouration than at the front. interestingly the injector with the worse blowback was the one nearest the bulkhead.
  11. Cleaned up intake; exhaust; no obvious signs of roughness but certainly a difference in wear on the Intake which shows more
  12. Not yet and to be honest, I wasn't planning on going that far. The engine runs fine other than the oil leak and a few limp mode issues under real heavy load, it's done well for 160k. The initial issue and reason for stripping it was the pressure in the rocker caused by blowback past the injector seals. Carbon deposits on the injector seats and in the rocker itself has shown this has been an ongoing problem, but one which I was aware of. The replacement cams from turners are £850 including a new carrier with followers (best to do at the same time ) however after spending an entire evening and morning pouring over pictures of cam wear and other's opinions, I'm not overly worried about the state of these. Yes they are worn, that Is evident, but not excessive enough to not keep it going for another month or 2 whilst I save up to have them replaced. Transit Mk7 aftermarket cams are identical and cheaper for the 2.4 Puma engine.
  13. Followers there are signs of minute scores on some of these
  14. Not a bad idea for this side as it does sit higher, the NS will sit level with the bottom of the rock slider due to the battery box. It would be fairly simple to achieve that too... you’ll have to show me a picture as I’m not sure what you mean
  15. Im going to remove the cams tomorrow to get a better look I was finishing up and took the picture. it’s good to get the opinions here before I remove them tomorrow and maybe replace them
  16. Opinions on the wear on these cams 160k mileage engine.
  17. Having a read up on this, it's not necessary to remove the head it seems as the reaming/cleaning kits come with a plug to stop this happening. I've ordered one and we shall see I've also ordered the timing chain, front cover and associated bits n pieces to do this. It's now time to strip it all out
  18. Not a bad call on the clips, it'll stop the bugger coming undone. It would be nice to come up with something that doesn't require a tool to release possibly? With regards to the rust proofing of the exterior of the engine ( ie the oil leak ) I removed the injectors and the rocker cover to come up with some interesting finds. The injector nearest the bulkhead was covered in carbon carp although the copper washer doesn't look too bad and neither do the other 3. Whipping out my camera I poked it down the injector bore to see how the seat looked and was presented with this; The rest are similar; I can order a tool and get the faces cleaned but of course there's the issue of carp falling into the cylinder. The bores are pretty filthy and whatever has been floating around in there has gotten everywhere inside the camshaft area. I think the only course of action from here is to whip off the camshaft housing and then the head and get it all done without worrying about contamination in the cylinders plus I can get a nosey at the state of the bores & pistons etc. It does mean the timing chain can be done at the same time.
  19. A slightly better picture Next job is one that has been put off for sometime and that is to tackle the slight oil leak... After the trip last week it’s progressing well Im able to keep the truck off the road this week which gives me time to investigate and get some parts in as and when needed. I believe the entire issue is down to the injectors not seated/worn washers, if this is the case then I’ll be doing the timing chain as well
  20. I have no idea, they came up on eBay for £45 each which is a steal as Rotapax ones are over £100 each. The seller ( a charity ) only had 4 available, so I had 2 and the others went 5 minutes later! The NS will be a little different as I have the battery tray to contend with
  21. It does and although I was looking a similar idea for the Jerry cans, this works much better. unless you bend down and look underneath you’d never know they were there...
  22. I’ve been looking at carrying extra fuel for future trips and having a twin jerrycan set up has been great in the past, it’s not a great way to carry fuel as it’s bulky. Rotapax do a slimline 5 gallon ( 20litre ) jobby which isn’t cheap so I dogged around until I found a similar idea much cheaper. The containers are 800mm x 300mm x 100mm and carry 20litres and come in an attractive green colour. The idea was to undersling them so I set to work to come up with an idea to mount them out of the way and keep the centre of gravity low. I made a simple frame from 30mm x 4mm steel after this I used threaded bar to make the clamping points and then clamped the Fuel containers using a aluminium plate to hole in place. this allows a low profile fuel container at 100mm or 4” to be mounted. I will look at a simpler way of locking it into position rather than nylon lock nuts, but this worked. I have used what we call cow mat which is a 18mm soft rubber mat cut In half to reduce vibration issues
  23. I fitted one from seals direct, same size and cheaper https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/pdf/ETS58DR.pdf
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