Badger110
-
Posts
1,174 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
13
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Badger110
-
-
16 hours ago, JohnnoK said:
It may also help if there any minor defects on the seal face or injector flange as well.
would you recommend fitting them whilst still warm or will t he annealing soften them up enough once cooled? -
I saw the pair of Lancasters down here a few years ago when the Canadian one was doing the show's with the remaining British based one.
They did do a taxing service, not sure if it's still going, where you pay to sit in it whilst they taxi down the airfield.
I missed the last Vulcan flight at Bournemouth by 3 seconds as it disappeared behind a building i was working on..the sound was incredible.
-
I have 2 Solent plastic box’s on the side of the truck and I’m very impressed with them, perfectly watertight even in Welsh & Scottish weather!
-
It’s an idea…I’ll take a look at the seals and see if there is any sign of fatigue on them to cause an issue in that way.
-
On my 1st engine rebuild all the parts were ordered from Turners including the water pump which turned out to be faulty.
The mating face which meets the block wasn’t flat and caused oil to leak.
After putting the the original pump back on, the problem was solved and the one from Turners ended up in the bin.
I wouldn’t buy ancillaries from them anymore, but gaskets etc are all Elring and good quality.
-
1
-
-
This popped up on YouTube and mentions Jaunt @snagger as supplier of their kits
-
1
-
-
16 hours ago, JohnnoK said:
https://www.popularmechanics.co.za/wheels/sa-man-converts-his-jeep-to-electric-power/
This is a good few years old now, so with the advances in technology it shouldn't be too difficult to do a Landy EV conversion.
That was a interesting...was there a follow up with the Land Rover's he talked about converting?
I believe the nature of the running gear of a defender just isn't suited to battery power as it'll lose too much energy turning the wheels after it's gone through 2 gearbox's, propshafts, etc plus it's a 3 ton vehicle
-
Here's a pic of when we're travelling between stops...although this is now beginning to feel like a holiday slide show
-
1
-
-
-
1
-
-
Here's a video of the truck set up for sleeping for those who may be interested
-
1
-
-
The entire rocker cover is a simplified PCV and the output pipe from the spring loaded valve which is connected to the air intake is designed to allow any moisture within the rocker cover to enter the air intake. ( JLR produced a heated section to be fitted to this pipe as when under extreme cold temperatures, any moisture in the pipe would freeze and could potentially block the pipe )
In instances of increased pressure due to failed injector seals or loose injectors, it will also allow oil to enter this pipe, this is why people fit Provent's to capture the oil as it's a common issue.
Having rebuilt the engine twice ( 1 top end and 1 full 5000 miles ago ), each time the head has been cleaned and the injector wells have been thoroughly cleaned and new original copper seals fitted on the last rebuild.
I have another set of seals, bolts and clamps as i carry them as spares now and i will over the next few weeks i will take the injectors out as i'm curious to see if injector no 4 is, again, the culprit.
It's done 170k and is tuned to 175bhp and performed 3000 miles in the last 2 weeks up and down mountains all over the UK and in an ideal world i'd look at reconditioning the engine with Turners, but at the moment, that's not realistic, so i'll live with it.
I just need to remember to check things
-
1
-
-
Alternator replacement done due to bypassing of the injectors once again
I fitted a capture can ( Provent ) and had it bolted to the old A/C compressor mount. This did the job of catching any oil vapour from the rocker cover which is designed ( in the puma engine ) to be vented straight back into the intake of the intercooler and then cycled back into the air intake of the engine and burnt off...
As i pointed out in the first engine strip down, this makes a god awful mess of the intercooler and intake due to the injector seals eventually going and you having no idea that the pressure is building up in the rocker cover.
The Provent is good idea as it has filter inside which you can check periodically for oil build up and keeps the intercooler nice n clean.
I didn't check it before the trip
One ( or possibly 2? ) of the injector seals has once again failed ( these are genuine replacements ) and so the Provent was doing it's job by keeping the increased oil vapour within, but here's the bit that i didn't realise and which ultimately caused a failure in the alternator.
At the base of the Provent is an outlet which allows you to drain off any excess oil and is normally closed with a plastic bung.
The bung had taken a holiday at some point and so any excess oil that was building up within the Provent was instead of sitting in the bottom , dripping onto the alternator ( the Provent is directly above it )I did say i thought the issue could be with the turbo as the feed for this is the only area that oil from the engine could be anywhere near the alternator combined with a whining at 2-3k revs, but this wasn't the case.
Siting of the Provent in its location caused the excess oil build up from a injector seal failure to drip onto the alternator to the point it gave up the ghost and wasn't happy with the new lubrication.
What i've learnt is this;
The Provent does the job under normal conditions, but when faced with excess oil from the rocker cover due to a leaking injector seal, it'll begin to fill up. This is fine as long as the bung is in place and i check it periodically to empty any excess oil.
Lesson learnt
-
1
-
-
I did and it’s a chain of events which leads to a knackered alternator
I’ll update my build thread with the details
-
Any more news @Daan?
-
We’re still on it! Taken 4 weeks off to tour around the UK as a problem with Millie’s rabies jab stopped us going abroad…even Ireland ( north & south ).
Spent the past week in Wales and then we’re off up north and then the land of the free after that
-
1
-
-
I ended up doing it myself…it’s not a huge job and the extra mileage after our days entertainment wasn’t favourable.
Field repairs do keep us entertained
-
3
-
-
Is he a garage though? He might know of someone local though so I’ll give him a shout
-
Pulled up at a site to find the battery light glowing on the dash 3 days into our trip.
a quick look at the the top of the alternator shows it’s covered in oil so I’m pretty sure it’s cooked as I replaced the battery a few weeks ago.
Combined with this is the turbo is whistling now…possible oil starvation which may be why the alternator is covered in oil.
The local motor place has a replacement in stock for tomorrow morning, and if it comes to it I can swap it out myself, but if there is a local garage within 20-30 miles of here that could do it, it saves me getting my hands dirty.
Any recommendations for this area? We’re at postcode LL40 2AB
cheers
-
Time wasn't on my side today, so i'll leave this until i return.
-
23 hours ago, landroversforever said:
That won’t remove the slack going from one direction to the other though?
As soon I wrote it, I had a moment of clarification and realised It wasn’t right
I haven’t stripped it further down just yet, if I get time tomorrow before we head off on Sunday I’ll post up on here
-
1
-
-
Maybe I’ll retract that last statement.
I’ve wound out the TRE so the arm is now at the top of the movement.
This should keep the FWH under tension at the top of its movement…I’ll test it tomorrow
-
Managed to get under the truck to take vid of the ARB movement
This is in the locked position
i can’t see how this can be adjusted out
-
We’ve done Nash a few times and will probably go again soon.
The woods are great but if the weather’s been bad for a few days, it gets interesting getting up to the top!
I’ve got a video somewhere of the woods…I’ll dig it out
-
2
-
-
Screw fix are selling these for £20 a box which is very good considering they are made from the same stuff as Peli cases
Watertight and nice n strong
-
1
-
Sticky situation
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I’m currently rebuilding a 1979 TS185 for a friend and have come across an issue with the engine and oil feed.
The oil pump feeds to the crankcase via rubber hose to a barb on the base of the cylinder which has snapped off.
I can’t see how I can replace the barb and corresponding holder as it looks to be fitted to the cylinder by being pressed in, so I need to fix the barb back on.
My 1st ( and only so far ) thought is to use solder to do so. The barb is very small with approx 1-2mm ID so it’s going to be a fiddly job.
I’m up for any thoughts on how to tackle it differently
I believe the barb and part it’s snapped from are brass.