Badger110

Maybe i'm a cynical bugger but i rarely believe anything unless it's priced accordingly to it's actual value.

Brilliant, keep the updates coming

Automation is above ground arms fixed to the posts and mounted to the bottom rails of the gates. The simple idea of a hook and eye works ( as with @daveturnbull gate ) but they would interfere with the composite panel closet to them, so instead i went for the top and bottom hinge as linked above. I'm using a 20mm flat plate to keep the boards within the frame and 16mm angle screwed into the frame behind the boards to hold it all in...i can space these off the bottom box section to reduce chances of rot within the composite board. If i put a horizontal bar across the middle, again i'll be making it difficult to fit/remove the boards, so i'll go for 2 verticals instead. The composite boards are 20mm and only 1500mm long which gives me no concern for them warping or flexing. I welded the lugs on today for the gate hinges after a few attempts i got the weld presentable! I have to weld up the top and bottom and get them dropped off at the powder coating place on tuesday as they're due to be dropped in the ground on saturday.

Nice to see the obligatory wet patch after trying to drain the coolant system on a puma!

A customer has asked me to fit some automated gates to her property,so i have taken it upon myself to make these gates. The opening is 3038mm and i will be making 2 of 1465mm(w) x 1400mm (H) gates with composite planks as the infill. I have made a mock up drawing on Shapr3D using 40mm (3mm thick ) box section as the outer frame, a simple square shape with mitred ends to the 4 pieces and i intended to weld these together, this is great for making sure everything is going to fit! However after searching for a suitable hinge which won't cause me to have to add more metalwork to the gate, i went for these https://www.locinox.com/en-gb/gate-hardware/hinges/adjustable-90-hinge-with-bearing-bearing hinge?returnurl=%2fen-gb%2fgate-hardware%2fhinges%2f The 2 mitre points top and bottom next to the 100mm supporting post ( 5mm thick wall ) will have to be straight welds as these hinges have a plate which is welded onto the ends of that particular part of the gate as in this diagram here; I've researched and come up with a figure of 70kg as the maximum weight combined of the steel and the composite boards for the infill (40mm box section @3mm, 20mm flat plate @3mm and 20mm angle @3mm to hold the composite boards in place, I was confident that 40mm is sufficient to keep the entire gate square once made up and hung, but given that the hinge requires me to do a straight weld at that hinge end, should i be looking at placing some flat plate over the welds at this point to add some strength, especially at the top where the weld is, as it's under constant ' pull ' ? A diagonal brace would be the simplest idea to brace the entire gate, but this will make fitting ( and possibly removing ) the composite boards rather difficult so i want to do away with adding anymore braces than would be essential. Thoughts on using 40mm box section over this span? Should i be looking at adding a vertical brace or 2 to stiffen the gate? If i did this i would need to up the gate to 50mm box section so i can get a vertical brace ' behind ' the composite plank ( 25mm spare ) I guess it's a confidence thing as it's my first time doing this type of work, but exciting none the less I will get some pictures once i begin the work

It isn't I've taken on too many things and welding isn't involved in this, however i did do a small bit of horizontal welding on some railings and let's just say i've got a long way to go yet! On the trailer side of things, i've fitted both water tanks and now decided to remove them and have just one large tank. I'm all for saving money using what i have but at times it's better to make it simple for myself and for the future, so one tank, one pump and it's done. I've fitted the hot water system and it works very well on the trial period...there is some fettling to do with water flow and i'm testing different pipe diameters and distance's to get the most from the heater and water supply without unnecessarily wasting water but i am very impressed with it. It's quick to heat up the water with a 900mm pipe from the unit to the standard basin tap using approximately 500ml of water from cold to nice and warm for a shower/washing up (30C registering on the unit ) I've found some composite aluminium sheets on faceache which will replace most of the timber sheet material in the build other than the phenolic plywood for structural parts too, hopefully i can pick them up over the weekend from Taunton. I've also found some aluminium sheets ( 1.5mm thick ) to make up some drawers for a works van which may also find it's way to be used in the trailer....🤔 I would post some pictures but i'm in blinkered mode and the workshop looks like organised chaos without any organisation involved so i'll wait until i clean it up abit

I fitted split doors with anti burst locks to my 2011 puma and had to order separate strikers as the puma doors use something completely different I ordered these strikers https://www.sp-4x4.com/product_p/fqb500170.htm Unfortunately no LR part number but eBay comes up with these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193719745712?hash=item2d1a98bcb0:g:InUAAOSwAuRfkWOW LH - FQB500170 RH - FQB500160

I've used that site for a few years, it's a god send for part number finding ( using the diagram sections ) Well worth registering on it for extra lists and more detailed comparisons for prices from suppliers.

I went to get some steel for the trailer and came out with one of these https://www.jasic.co.uk/arc-140-inverter-welder £148+VAT which i thought was rather good as it saves wheeling the Mig around and i always liked the versatility of a stick welder, especially one this small as i can chuck it in the back of the truck for small work jobs. I've got it on the 32 amp commando plug as that was what the mig was using, not tried it on a standard 13amp. Learning curve here we come...

That is what i did in the truck; However i removed the PEH with the fan as i installed an air top. The thermotop in the truck will stay as it's built in and doing the job

After a few hours loitering in various areas of the internet, these seem to be of a decent stock with caravan outlets selling spares https://www.thecaravanwarehouse.co.uk/Products/001800010002/BOI600 I shall give it a punt and provide some feedback when it's fitted

Blimey, i'd be on the beer too after that lot!

Dude i'm sorry but i didn't measure mine, call it old age and forgetfulness Did you get it sorted?

I'm thinking of fitting one of these to the trailer as we are running gas in there for the cooker, has anyone had any luck with them? Online reviews are conflicting and given their price it's not the end of the world if they go tits up, however if someone has used one, got one, can vouch for one, i'd be interested in your views The other option is to take the hot water system out of the Landy ( thermotop/heat exchange ) but that means i need to add a fuel tank ( albeit small ) to the trailer which isn't ideal...

Yes, that was what caused me to dig further as to why it was happening ( radio and heater stopped working a week before ) and it turned out to be the end cap of the ignition barrel. Once replaced, radio and heater worked again and the light went out.

I can be, mine did a similar thing and i replaced the end cap of the barrel as they're not expensive and the problems went away. Sod's law dictates your's may be a different issue altogether

I've got a petrol cement mixer you can have sat here, it's in my way now, no cost just take it. The motor was flooded ( as in underwater ) and worked for a while but now will fire up but won't run so will need some TLC. I can drop it off at Honiton if someone can get it over to you

I can measure mine in the morning, it's a 2011 110 USW if that helps? Standard springs with OME shocks.

Trailer is good although not used it in anger for more than a week at a time. Some areas need some work, the doors don't seal shut so the rain gets in which isn't a massive issue, but one that could be solved or at least reduced. We keep everything in water tight bags or box's anyway, but the battery and fridge need some protection so i'll come up with something. The kitchen area also needs some work to make it more suitable to use and do away with the wasted space in there. Internal lights and some other mods to think about...fortunately the previous guy who made it had done all the work on the underside with the brakes, axles and frame so i just need to potter about in the top part

Quick update; Engine has now done 250miles with no issues and running nice n sweet. Gearbox was returned, fitted, then the entire truck sent back to sort out the leak in the box...apparently it was a bad seal on the rear of the box, whatever it may have been, it has been sorted now. So now i'm at the point of finally finishing the rear area which has gone through 3 complete changes since i first ripped out the rear seats. I've also placed the trailer in the workshop as i want to work on that over the winter months We shall see where the thread tales us from here. P.S. yes they are wheel rims on it, i could only get it in there with these fitted

Boats and Horses are 2 areas that require large price hikes due to the nature of the retail buyers...4x4's are coming in close these days

Lost interest awhile ago, but i hope it works for those that want it to.

When i worked for Harley D, the amount of carp they put their name on was embarrassing!

I am, and it's why i never gave it much thought as mixing the exhaust with the combustion inlet won't affect the interior air, but the thread has given me prod to check everything regardless

de nailing that lot will keep you busy!