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Everything posted by hurbie

  1. it works beter if you post some more info , did you bought a "short block" engine , or a complete one , did the injectors and fuelpump been checked before fitting etc ... is the timing set correctly ... what gearbox, tyres, diffs etc ...
  2. no need to , a friend of mine own's a 88 serie's 3 , swapped the chassis a good 20 years ago for a galvanised one , didn't do anything to it , and it is always stored outside ..... so far no rust anywhere .. (we live very close to the Nordsea , and in the netherlands they use a lot of road salt in winter time)
  3. the "eurover" project was in a similar state , it has been most of it's life in Scotland ..... don't weld , just replace with a galvanised one , and your set for another 30 years ....
  4. no : https://www.jamesbaroud.com/en/products/hard-shell-tents/evasion/ (just a quick search )
  5. there are tent's around that are 160 and even 180 cm wide.
  6. at least 1 side still for sale: https://pablanchard.co.uk/Seat-Belt-Inertia-Reel-LH-MTC1607 other side : https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/mtc1606-use-mxc-5492.html
  7. same numbers according to the parts manual . http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-parts-book/
  8. it might be usefull to explane what front springs you have at the moment , the original front springs have a different length for driver/passenger side . so may be part of your problem .
  9. i replaced the broken koni's on my 110 (shaft broke on one) with Terafirma Commercial Heavy duty one's. the rod's are almost twice as thick as the koni's they replaced (20mm for the terrafirma) . they work ok and don't need a morgage to fit . (https://terrafirma4x4.com/commercial-hd-rear-standard-travel-shock-def-d1-rrc.html)
  10. if it was my job , next step would be to remove the striker and the rubber adjusters from the bonnet , so the front is clear of any obstackles . now gently close the bonnent and see if it sits at the right height . if not , try to look under the bonnet on top of the engine if something is stopping the bonnet from dropping low enough.
  11. my gues would be that it touches the X-tech mounting plate's , and therefore the bonnet will not get down at the front ... i would remove the whole system , then get the bonnet to close as it should be , then try to refit the X-tech (or just dump it and use a proper designed one 🙂 )
  12. i wouldn't stack helicoil's , it is very difficult to get the threads at the exact location (the bottom coil of the top helicoil needs to be at the precies right place in relation to the top coil of the bottom one ....) i would look for a longer insert .
  13. to quick with my vote "others" , didn't see the 255 in the list (were's my glasses...)
  14. you could try gripping the bolt with a pair off vise-grips (after tightening the bolt a bit) , and wiggle the shaft while at the same time turning the shaft and the hub around . it is probbebly catching at the end of the brass ring inside the hub.
  15. looks like a decent bush fix , avoid full lock and drive carefully .
  16. yes they have , they even have a saying "it doesn't have to go up the road ..."
  17. heard a lot of complaints in the netherlands about HVO (it's called "bleu diesel" , it increased fuel consumption by 10% and more expensive as normal diesel
  18. indeed as above , and most car's with rear bench seats have these missing 😂
  19. make more space 😁 (just leave the spare tire at home)
  20. i use a Engel MR040 , not overly expensive , more plastic as there very expensive steel brothers , but a very good unit , it can freeze to -18 .... runs on 12 volt and 220 volt as wel , so we use it as a 2nd fridge in the house .
  21. or fit a very thin (6mm) custom spacer between the hub and rim , so the studs are flat with the rim.
  22. if you've read carefully that's exactly why he has this jig .... (and it now serve's 3 jobs , restore a body shell , get the chassis out of the way , and make it easy to paint the chassis ....)
  23. long time ago i had to make the same reparation on a 300tdi discovery , some bright soul put a thick washer under the spring to increase oilpressure !! the previous owner had the engine rebuild , but forgot to remove the washer , so the engine was creating 25 bar (!!) oil pressure and blew the oilfilters apart . took me some time to find this fault (only days before setting off to africa for a charity run) . as far as my memmory goes , i only removed the sump to get acces tot the relief valve , so no need to dismantle the front engine cover for this
  24. i believe they calculated this years ago , you get a puncture once every 100000 km's . so there's no real need for a spare . (but i always carry them) new heavy goodsvehicle's in the netherlands often don't come with a spare (save's some weight, and most drivers can't change a tyre anymore)
  25. were these included with the car ? or did you find them somewhere ?
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