hurbie
-
Posts
910 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by hurbie
-
-
46 minutes ago, Arjan said:
Fit both the 88" aswell as the 110 5 door.the plan is to fit them to the Eurover project 🙂
-
hello all ,
i just got hold of these side panels , are these rare to find ? i have never seen closed 88" sidepanels without the rear quarter glass .
everything looks factory made
-
if i had to do this , i would look for a truck repair buisines , they have much more capable stuf for getting chassis straight again (a much more comon fault on HGV tractor /trailers )
-
1
-
-
first job is making sure the breathers work as they should do .... a blocked breather makes a gearbox/differential leak ....
and not all 230's need a sleeved casing when leaking from the o-ring ....sometimes a new o-ring will seal it for a long time .
-
21 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
They extended the front door to suit the Jeep's longer wheelbase, so the roof had to be lengthened.
according to the text , the chassis got extended :
The 1969 body was repainted by piece and assembled onto a 2018 Jeep chassis extended by 16” to fit the wheel wells
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
I’m guessing it lives in Scotland.
it looks exactly like the chassis of the Eurover project ..... (that was from Scotland as wel ..)
-
some used newspapers , apply a thick coating of bodycoating and your good to go ....
-
1
-
-
no to sure what battery's youre running , but 14.8 seems to be pretty high for a lead acid battery , most you read is 14.4 to max 14.7
but maybee you have different battery's and i'm talking nonsens 😉
-
or just visit your local MAN truck dealer and buy a axle drain plug with the magnet installed 😉 (there the same thread as far as i can see)
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, John_M said:
Yeah good point, any idea the sort of standards they follow? I’m assuming it’s just like how the wiring passes through body/bulkhead etc. and how connections are made?
it could be country specific , in the netherlands the wiring has to be "invisible" routed within the factory loom .
-
9 hours ago, John_M said:
I’d rather do that, then I can install it how I want to (primarily bc I can choose where cables are routed, and so I know how and where it might fail).
The other thing is, even if it’s not an insurance certified alarm, it’ll still put my mind at ease, as it will still scream at anyone who puts a hammer through the window.
But it still would be nice to have it certified to lower insurance costs.
if you want it to be certified , speak to the guy who does the certifing before wiring everything , there are rules how certain connections need to be made , and how wire's need to be tied in the vehicle loom.
this save's you some time doing parts over because the don't meet "standards"
-
1
-
-
could it be that the tank breaks because you don't have the cradle installed ?
-
1
-
-
9 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Interesting on the stud front. I've used an off the shelf stud which was all the right shape which has given me similar stick out front and rear. That's with early 90/110 front hubs and imperial early disco or RRC rear hubs.
do you happen to know wich one's you got ?
-
there's not much you can tell by lookng at bore's .... you have to measure them to know what to fix .
on the Eurover 200tdi the bore's had no crosshatching left on a couple of spots , but measured to be good enough for another round of standard rings with a good hone to get the cross hatch patern back .... (since i did a full rebuild i opted for a oversize with new piston's).
so just borrow a decent cilinder measure set and know what to do ....
-
yep , for an overlander keep it as simple as possible .
everything you add to it will eventually break ...
-
2
-
-
5 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
I’m not metallurgist but I was under the impression you could somewhat normalise steel and then re harden.
you can , the trick is ... you need to know the spec's off the steel used ....and that's the difficult part to find ...
-
2
-
-
a decent sollar controler can be set to different type's batterys, for example a lithium battery needs a higher voltage then a lead acid one . so might be that your problem is there .
set to the correct battery the controler should never give more output then the "set" voltage (even with the engine running)
-
the pipe with the 2 banjo's is exactly the same as my fuel pipe from injection pump to filter (mounted on the bulkhead) in a 200TDI
(and if you don't use it , i can use it on the Eurover project)
-
or a cheap chinese VDO knockoff 😉 (my original landrover gauge was also way off)
-
no idea , been looking for these myself , i was thinking of using valve stem seals of some sort ...
-
the Land rover manual state's this :
-
oeps ... make sure u use the outer race on the bearing when pulling , this prevents the cage from distortion !!
-
1
-
-
same here , rebuilt engine in the Eurover project , spare engine to be rebuilt , and a extra spare head ...
-
must be something like that , good news , i got a message that after 2 hours waiting on the "ANWB" (dutch AA) everything works again ...
so even range rovers fix themselfs ....
1984 Ninety brake bleeding question
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
bleed everything and start with the one that's furtest away from the master cilinder .