hurbie
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Posts posted by hurbie
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next one 🙂 2 different shaft's , one has a hole on the end , the other one has a keyway (don't know if this is the correct term)
they were in a somewhere around number 219986.
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very happy with this result , i'think i will have a new one tomorrow .
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that's really great , does that make it a serie's 1 or 2 part . i can't find the number in the serie's 1 parts manual ?
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i got some info from this website : https://www.lroe.co.uk/crankshaft-vibration-damper-driving-flange-09017
serie's 1 1600 and 2.0 "siamese" petrol
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hello all ,
i need a little help from the serie's goeroes , i recently accuired a large stock of NOS landrover parts (the owner closed his shop , and there was nobody interested to take his inventory, so i made hime an offer , and he said yes to it ......)
most of the parts are labeled , so no problem finding wat it is , but there is the odd one , misplaced or lost it's number , so there i need you knowledge !
first question is this longer "crankshaft vibration damper driving flange" , the number of the shorter on is 09017 , and the longer one was mixed in with the shorter one's .
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57 minutes ago, Defender768 said:
new engine time
why not put a new (used) conrod in ?
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6 minutes ago, Badger110 said:
I will need to fashion a fake capping on these though as it's going to look abit odd otherwise ( i have 2 piece front doors )
you don't need to fabricate these yourself .... on the 1984 "facelift" model , they used 1 piece doors , with a capping to look like 2 piece doors ,
think the number is : muc3930-muc1931
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or just put a original Nato plug on the sankey .....
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3 hours ago, Sigi_H said:
Capillary forces keep acid between the doubled sections, but no zinc.
mmmm how do you think your new chassis wil be galvanised .... yes ... it wil go thru the same acid bath .... so i don't think this is a factor ...
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i'm trying to fix the rear heated screen ( this has never worked , as long as i have the car 🙂 ) , so far i don't have power to the screen , there's power at the switch . and the switch is working.
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hello all ,
does anybody know the right electrical diagram for my 1987 110 2.5NA , i have a landrover shopmanual , with a diagram for the wiring and switches , but these use a different color as i find in my car .
the switch has a thick black/wit , thinner black/with and a green/red wire , also the voltage sensing relay has brown/white wires on it .... and the relay i think is for the rear screen has black/white , black , and white/red .....
also rather strangely the warning light panel has no integrated bulb for the screen heater (it's a bulbholder were you can put 2 little spade terminals on)
all the diagrams i find use different colors 😞
thanks , gerben
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i think it's factory , my 110 used to have these side's (and it's not a military one) , i changed them for van side's .
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6 minutes ago, monkie said:
This happened to me too at the end of last year. I think water got in by following the loom down to the relays.
same here , flasher was mounted up-side down , that's not a good thing .....
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exhaust stud for 2.5 petrol and NA is AFU1848L , seems to be M10 thread (from the 1987 110 manual)
exhaust stud for 2.25 petrol is also AFU1848L (from the 1986 110 manual)
hope this helps .
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On 1/3/2020 at 9:09 AM, western said:
If this does become law in NL, I hope the government are going to help pay for the retrofit parts at 1600 euro, not many have that amount sat around as spare cash.
no change , in holland (NL) it's not allowed to retrofit a partice filter (it is allowed , but you will not receive a lowere exhaust emission on paper )
so it seems they are only interessted in ur money , insteed of caring for the envirement.
this januari the roadtax for "poluting" diesel's is 15% extra tax !!!
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as far as i know , there suppossed to be shim's , i think it need's 0.1mm space between the flange and the circlip
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try and remove the vacuumpump , and blank the hole with a plate ..... these pump's are sometimes very noisy , and when inspecting , there's nothing wrong to see ....
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also have a look on the routing of the washer tube , it may get caught behind the dash (at least on a LHD vehicle it make's a rather funny bend around som parts of the dash-structure) , downside is you have to remove the top dash panel to get acces.
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did you use the seals with them or went for a different brand ?
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hello all ,
has anybody tried the stainless brake caliper piston's from brit-part ? i would'nt use the seal kits , but wonder are the piston's any good ?
i contacted zeus to ask if they still sell there pistons , but never got a replay (and can't find them anywhere for sale either)
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treeslider at the front :
some 16 cm from the front side of the bulkhead :
total length is 182 maybee 182,5 cm :
from the rear to the hart of the rear wheel is 49 cm :
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taken some picture's of the mounting , there is 1 bracket missing on the treeslider , they were missing when i bought them .
do you need the total length ?
front mounting to bulkhead outrigger :
rear mounting :
and from the back towards the front :
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i have treesliders on my 3 door 110 , they bolt to the bulkhead bracket at the front , and at the (in my case) unused chassis outrigger just in front of the rear wheel , you have to remove the aluminium sill panels and they bolt up easy ...
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just put 2 new (or used) conrod's in , new bearing's , and off you go ... every piston has movement if you push at the top ..... so don't lose sleep over that
the Corona NOS parts look-up thread
in Series Forum
Posted · Edited by hurbie
the trouble with this "batch " of parts , the really old one's have parts from rover/mg/jaguar mixed in , so some numbers have no landrover resemblance.
219986 turned out to be a bush set for a brake pedal from a rover P4
i mentioned the number because the shaft is probebly in the same "range" of partnumbers , so lets say between 219000 - 221000
i'l meassure the shaft's tomorrow .