hurbie

don't bother ordering a Britpart and All-makes one , they are exactly the same !

11.59 means a empty battery ..... (or a dead one if you charged it before)

what i don't get : when you disconect the wire from the ignition lock , the solenoid is stil powered . where is this power comming from ? , because that wire goes directly to the solenoid (at least on 2.5 diesels) so it seems there is a connection with a different wire somewhere between the ingition lock and the engine stop solenoid.....

wrong wiring diagram , i don't think a normal 2.5td has infrared headlights 😉

or you have faith in what you build .... kia has a 7 years warranty ! (3 years unlimited mile's , 7 years with a max of 150.000 KM)

i would say , door switch for interior lights. (but not 100% sure)

i would weld them first , clean up the weld (make it flat again) , mark the hole with a drill that fit's in the jig , then drill a small pilot hole and finally drill to the right size .

my daily driver is a 110 with a retrofitted 200tdi from a disco , and does exactly the same , have to blip the throttle a bit to get it to charge , swapped alternators a while ago , and that didnt help . i just live with it 🙂

biggest advice would be to buy a original Landrover workshop manual for your car's age and engine .

you didn't by any change swapped the wire's from the oil pressure sender and the stop solenoid ?

if you look for a ex-mod landrover , i wouldn't step away from the private owner . most of the people i've came acros with a military landrover are really pickey on there vehicle , most are trying very hard to get it back to original spec , and spend some serious cash on it . have a look at : https://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=14 or become a member of the ex military landrover association : https://www.emlra.org/ (my first 110 was a ex MOD helicopter support vehicle (in orignal condition))

these are perfect for the relay mounts .

these are "normal" 6.3mm connectors , they are not the right ones ,blade is too wide for the fuse , and it lacks a "pusher" plate on the inside to make a secure connection with the fuse .... "close , but no sigar ..."

yes , probebly a pig's job with the little bulbs ....

it will fit , just make it a mid engine configuration 😉

it's bassicly just a piece of plastic film with the connections printed on them . so the warning lights get the connections from the big multiplug . just look for a used warning light cluster on ebay .

every tyre shop that does HGV tyres has these in stock .

thanks for your replay , i'll keep an eye out for these , if i can't find anything in time, i'll ditch the 200tdi fuse box and find something else ....

@PaulMc this one ?

hello all , has anybody found a alternative for the connectors that fit the 200tdi fusebox (the connectors that hold the wire on one end , and the fuse on the other ) original numbers are STC4036 STC4035 STC4034 i tried autosparks, but they only sell a fusebox with terminals/connectors . (and to save the planet i only need the terminals/connectors) even Google can't help me find these 😞 (i can find them , but eye watering expensive )

this is the reason i put ballancing beads in mine .... (normally used in HGV ) https://www.rematiptop.com/products/automotive/precisionbalance-balancing-compound.html plus with this , every time you start driving , it ballances your wheels again 🙂

thanks for your input ! that would explain why the lower dashboard wasn't fixed properly 🙂

hello all , i was stripping the bulkhead from the scottish 110 (ex mod and seems to be 1985) and noticed some differences with other bulkheads i stripped . the flyscreen is welded to the bulkhead , all i have seen (old one's) are riveted in . and a closed off part , other bulkheads i have seen this is open (it's above the footwell, looking up to the windscreen) is this MOD special , or some idea to improve on the earlier version's ?

charge your battery , the low voltage make's the relais close and open fast , so you get the buzzing noise ... (had the same couple weeks ago , couldn't start the car with a jump battery , charged the battery and vroem ...)

i think he's more looking for this : https://www.strike.com.au/collections/antennas seems to work for 3g and 4g (some even 5g) , so could be usefull on our side of the world (we seem to use the same bands as aus)