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Getting Comfortable
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About Disco33&3rd

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    West Yorkshire
  1. Had a good fellow do a pressure test for me.....95% certain it's the head gasket 😐
  2. Topped water up with bleed screw out, water seemed to fizz out under pressure as though additional pressure is getting in
  3. Hi guys yes it's a td5 my apologies, W reg, there is no DIY pipe. The repair kit is for the fuel cooler. 4 new o rings & circlips. Hope that adds meat to the skeleton story ☺ I appreciate your help
  4. Hi all, respect to the group. Firstly to explain the title a little more-i put a length of pipe from the overflow coolant bottle to hang just behind the front axle (less water on the chassis is good for me) so if you were to lay on the floor my disco would look we male chuckle. So onto the query-im loosing water through the overflow & seemingly end up with the water level just on the bottom of the tank.....um explanation? I've recently repaired the fuel cooler with the rubber ring repair kit which went very well, I've still to write that up. I've checked all the hoses I can see & follow finding the one below the egr valve where it joins the radiator to require a wiggle to put it fully on. I put blue food colouring in this evening hoping that may assist, I was going to use red but then I thought my subconscious mind may interpret that the disco is bleeding to death. Can anyone help lol
  5. If you read a few posts as your roaming around the forum on this subject the good people advise that when one of the connector blocks in the passenger footwell gets damaged (usually through moisture getting into it) it is to blame for your interior lights not coming on when you unlock/open the door Following ours stopping working shortly after purchasing our disco I thought I'd have a rife around, Take the panels off the area where your feet go, there's two on ours a softish padded panel (under the glovebox) then the hard plastic panel on the side, it's held by plastic lugs, be careful & they come out lovely, Then you'll see an array of wires & grey connector blocks, brown too. It can look daunting but your looking for one connector block & then one wire (blue & purple) There's 3 blocks together, your after the middle one, to separate them they just slide off & on to each other, access is abit tricky but percevere. Once you have the middle grey connector block you can use a flat screwdriver or thin spoon handle to press the clip at the bottom middle to separate the block. (I personally don't like using anything with a 'sharp' edge when this close to wires) I depressed the tab then put spoon handle between block to separate by wiggling, then repeated that until they separated enough for me to just pull apart. So now your blocks are apart if you look at the bottom corner wire/spade connector in the block it may be green? Yuck that's the moisture build up rendering the connector disconnected. From here there are a few paths you can go, as I used what I had to hand I'll go through what I did, using a pair of needle nose pliers or regular ones carefully pull one wire out of each side of the block, make sure it's the same coloured wire both sides (line up each side of the block if needed to visualise) it's the purple & blue wire. Pull out then carefully strip the sheathing off, about half an inch should do on both. Twist the copper so it makes a stronger end then using a white household connection terminal ( you can buy them in strips from most DIY stores) put each end in & screw down both screws to hold. Done, well done. Put everything back together but leave the panels off for now, incase there's another reason to go in or so it's less to take if there's a problem. I shut the door locked it with the key fob & unlocked it started the engine (just to make sure lol) then locked it. On unlocking it the lights came on woop woop, opened & closed the door, shortly after the lights dimmed & went out...job done well done peeps, hope this helps
  6. Got the light working in the glove box, thought it was the bulb at first so replaced it. No joy, traced it back to a switch that sits behind the glovebox itself, you can gain access by carefully removing the two panels in the footwell, they're held in by plastic lugs that when in expand the fitting (similar to screw & wallplug) Anyhoo I saw the switch which is a press switch for lack of the appropriate technical term, glovebox closes presses switch in, glovebox opens switch comes out. You'll understand what I mean when you remove it, disconnect the two wires on the spade connectors & with a flat blade screwdriver you're able to depress the tabs on the switch holding it in place on the metal plate & bring it through the hole towards you. I stripped it down gently sanded clean any metal parts then carefully put it back together opposite to dismantling. I refitted everything & once the headlights are on ( point to note) the glovebox light works when you open it. Another point to note whilst I was faffing the light was out of its fitment on the metal plate (great idea to house electrics on land rover) once I'd concluded it all worked on fitting the light unit it shorted out on the metal plate.....get it blew fuse 33 (I think, it's late chuckle) 10A replaced that & jobs a HUD un. Thankyou for your time
  7. Hi guys & girls ive been reading your posts helping each other out & they've helped me too, I'd just like to say thankyou & I've plucked up the courage to put myself on here. Hopefully I can contribute lol
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