task

Spent a lot of time going in to Paddocks over the years, Bob behind the counter is a bit of a legend and could rival some on here for his almost encyclopaedic knowledge of part numbers. I try to avoid the place during a Saturday though, the Q's are massive. Very handy place to have on the doorstep and definitely a place I'd recommend to others

I built a rolling chassis (rebuilt axles/engines/gbox & fitted exhaust etc) then put the body on top. I used an engine crane to lift my body on and off but that was probably only realistic for me with 2 doors and a fully stripped shell. lots of photos on the link in my sig if it helps

I believe the mounting points are the same as the RRC, having just rebuilt all of mine I shall try and remember where they all are 2x under rear x-member 2x back of sills 2x front of sills 2x front of bulkhead/back of inner wings 2x front of headlamp boxes In addition to this; 2x threaded bars in the middle of the centre floor 2x seatbelt mounts in rear floor Wiring; Gbox wiring on N/S Engine wiring (no idea on diesel) other stuff; Gear linkages rear brake hoses to boot floor rear brake cables (ABS) boot floor rear brake wear warning boot floor front brakes each side of inner wing front ABS each side inner wing Radiator/aircon/oil cooler pipes fuel pipes That's all I can think of off the top of my head, HTH

Heater resistor on the RRC.

Hmm, perhaps is was 1.2mm then. It was a while back when I bought it

Return the chassis to original length and put a Range Rover body back on it

I seem to remember the metal I purchased was 1.5mm sheet. A lot of the pre-fabbed parts I bought to weld in were 1.5mm too. I always red-oxide once the welds have cooled down and, if on a area exposed to the elements, either paint properly or cover in underseal/waxoyl.

Where the windscreen wipers come through the decker panel on a RRC there's two rubber seals, I've searched high and low for these and can't find them for sale or in fact find a part number! Anyone know off the top of their head? Cheers

It's a little more than a cutout, the metal is nicely shaped to give no sharp edges. Not that easy to re-create with the alloy wings, that might just be me being a little anal though. :/ Also, the mounting point from wing to A-post is different. With regards doors, whilst early and late door skins are the same the stuff inside moved about a lot, the door locking mechanism changed along with mounts for door cards etc. Wiring had different connections for different model years. Not saying it can't be done though

Nice looking RRC/Van!

Adding my O/H to the insurance on my Discovery, declared mods of springs/exhaust/LPG etc, unlimited personal/commuting miles and 5000 business miles made no difference to my insurance. I had the poor girl on the other end of the phone running through hoops of "what if I remove the 6th and 7th seat" etc, all made no difference. Apparently the business miles and a claim which comes off in December are the factors that make my insurance higher. Cost me £500 fully comp, business use, modified. Ironically the GF had a quite from one of these women-only places, added my name to the quote and it went down by 1/3rd!

What requirements do you have for it to be a rugged device? Dust and shock? Damp? What sort of memory/processing/storage space requirements do you have? Does it have to be a certain OS? Dell have a newish tablet/desktop machine running Windows7 (could probably be made to run XP or Linux depending on touchscreen driver support). Inspiron Duo Spec the HDD as a solidstate and you've got something that should withstand shock. If your requirements lend themselves to other OS's then you could look at Android powered tablets; Asus Transformer With regards toughbooks, I'm not really sure what the differences are but Panasonic own the trademark "Toughbook" and this can either be a semi-rugged, rugged or tablet device. The ones I've looked at in the past have been very expensive for a low overall spec, mostly due to the construction used on them. HTH

I had thought about that, and it might do for a quick fix, but I'd rather it look proper in the long run. I may resort to emailing breakers to see if anyone can chop that bit off a loom for me

I tried bullet connectors but the peg is a smaller diameter so it doesn't make contact. I tried adjusting the connection with some pliers but it just popped off it looks like this; and feeds the gauge. I believe it may also be used for 300 tdi's too.

I have a serpentine Rover V8 with hotwire EFI. As fitted to Softdash Range Rover Classics and to facelift Discovery 1's. The water temp sender (mounted front right of the inlet manifold) has a rather interesting connection that I don't seem to have a connection for. Anyone know what it is or, even better, where I can find one? Thanks

On the engine I'm building at the moment I have fitted a S/H multipoint LPG kit that has the actual injectors mounted on the inlet manifold, drilled bosses that they push into. I'll try and get some photos but to say it's a tight squeeze would be an understatement.

How I enjoy reading this, having entirely stripped my system down and rebuilt it with all new lines/calipers, should be a laugh when I get some power into it ans try to bleed the system. I remember doing this on my old 1991 and had forgotten how much of a pig it can be at times.

You're welcome, my google foo is strong today

I replaced my fronts with some Alpine speakers and the rear with boston acoustics. Both of the same size. I removed the rear door "subs" and replaced them with a boxed 10" run through a separate amp. The whole lot is run from an Alpine ipod head unit.

Service and Maint instructions Any use?

Good stuff, this confirms what I thought, shan't be fitting these during the rebuild

Thanks for the offer, managed to sort it, I think. Will find out when I get some power and a engine running Cheers

My Series 3 V8 clatters in 1st/2nd but not in 3rd/4th. The box was rebuilt using all new bearings etc so not sure it's that. It's always done it and has lasted 2 years like this so not overly worried, it does make me a little hesitant to give it much stick in those gears. Probably not a bad thing!

Dunsfold has one or two 100" 4 door Land Rovers. I also saw one a while ago in one of the rags but we are talking many years ago!

Cheers I'd had a look at that in the manual, should be able to sort something out from that and the pipes that didn't crumble off. It's just a standard RRC ABS system on the CSK. I might be able to copy the old mans 1994 classic if I get stuck!