task

They feed aircon blowers, radio, heater blower and something else. Quite a power draw when it's all turned on, although it's unlikely you'd run the heater and aircon blowers at the same time!

Thanks Inner wing looks a little scruffy in the photo but it's been cleaned since then! The fuses are pretty hefty, normal blade fuses don't really cut it.

A couple of the fusible links in my RRC blew before my ownership as a result of the heater motor shorting, I replaced them with some in line fuses rather than a complete fuse box. The blue wires are for towing electrics, the red ones are the replacement links.

There's a .deb and also source so you can compile it yourself on Linux, I'm sure it could be made to work on an Apple Laptop too if that's your perversion

This may help; https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge Free software but you need to make up a lead

I currently have Truck Lite LED headlamps and a pair of spotlamps in the grill converted to run HID (as I had a pair of HID bulbs/ballast laying about). Works well for my mostly road use.

Very nice, bet the mini is good fun? That bus look sounds like you've got your work cut out for you! Such a shame it was vandalised,should be a rewarding project, my first car journey was in a VW camper when picked up from the hospital after being born! A rotisserie is a very useful tool, built one for the MGB and attached it to some heavy duty castors so I could work inside and outside the garage; Which now looks like this Building that is partly to blame for me not having touched the In Vogue yet!

I recently restored/converted an MGB GT V8 and the off-the-shelf parts availability was outstanding. I could buy all body panels, rubber and lights cheaply and from a selection of suppliers. Modification was easy with either reporduction factory parts like engine mounts or with after market items such as exhaust. If I had wanted to I could have purchased an entire bodyshell complete with doors/bonnet/boot, I'd have needed deep pockets though! Any photos of the bus and mini?

You can buy those seals from quite a few suppliers but the price isn't very welcoming... part number DA6367

I know Famous Four have been tooling up to make various parts for classics, including currently unobtainable rubber seals for front windows, so they may well have these on their radar. Land Rover are also starting to re-produce items under the new "heritage" scheme - http://www.landrover.co.uk/above-and-beyond/news/land-rover-heritage.html which may or not may not include these sorts of rubber seal. They will be producing body panels and repair panels similar to those enjoyed by the MG and Mini community, apparently.

Which rubber seals are these? Got a link?

As Bowie69 says, pull the engine! Chances are the rings are just gunked up so would probably benefit from being removed and the pistons cleaned then re-fitted. If you're going to change the rings you need to glaze bust the bores so the new rings bed correctly. If you're pulling the engine I would do the following; Check core plugs, replace if required rear oil seal - only replaceable with engine out front oil seal mains big ends

My Truck Lites have been fine in the cold but I have a set of spotlamps in the grill just in case

That looks lovely, especially on those wheels

I rebuilt the CSK with mostly YRM panels when they had just started out, very good stuff. The old man just replaced his rear crossmember with a YRM item and that still seemed to be good quality

You can fit the 3.9 front end on a 4.6, you just need a spacer for the front pulley. 4.6 crossbolted block with 3.9 RRC front end

Recently put a new V8 into the 4 door classic, which is going pretty well, other than a persistent oil leak from the oil pump base area which manifested as follows; Engine fitted and no leaks for 200 miles Slight weap from oil pump base area (looks like top near gasket) Gasket replaced, leak stops for 50 miles Leak re-appears so replaced the oil pump base with a spare and fitted new relief valve and spring along with new oil take off rubber gasket Leak stops for 100 miles, has now re-appeared. It's not a massive leak, but under motion it's enough that the oil is swept onto the exhaust causing unpleasant fumes so is very noticeable. It didn't leak when the front cover was fitted to the old engine and the oil pump base has been replaced so the next stage in my eyes would be the replacement of the front cover as perhaps something was damaged when re-fitting. Anyone experienced similar?

From memory it's a chevy taken out to 7.2L, it was around 7 years ago though

Photos of the Schuler/Overfinch as promised; Front suspension Rear twin shocks with air assist It used the FF transfer box, from Jensen FF fame. The was also a Schuler exhaust. Sadly sold a long time ago to one of the sales people at Rimmer Brothers. It looked like this when finished;

Fronts were cranked in the opposite direction to the way you would do it on a lift kit. I have a load of photos on a server that's powered down. I'll upload them after Xmas.

We had a 7.2 Schuler RRC that had a 3 speed chrysler box and a FF gearbox complete with maxarat ABS system. It also had 15" wheels, lowered springs with modified suspension arms, large front brakes and air assisted dampers on the back. Currently we have a 4.6 soft dash overfinch that had modified EAS, quick rack steering, secondary door seals, some interior modification and a 4.6 Rover V8 with an apprently modified ecu and different cam.

My immobiliser/alarm started playing up the other day, AMR2106. I'd been trying to ease off a sticky door pin by operating the central locking and introducing some silicone spray when the alarm started sounding and it immobilised the car. To make matters worse I have a toad system fitted as an aftermarket solution as I have no fob. Oddly allowing the alarm to sound and then locking and unlocking resest the AMR unit and all was fine. I've bought a spare as a backup tjat acrually comes with a fob but I might do as suggested above, remove the microswitches from the door handles and bypass the immobiliser circuit.

Snap, working from home is how I ended up with an In Vogue and various other "collectables". I view it as an added bonus.

Delivery is a nightmare for my parents place; Delivery driver wandering up and down the lane, asked what he was doing, claimed he couldn't understand how to get in the house. He walked past two sets of gates. Delivery note found lobbed in a bush at the end of the lane Parcel left on door step in the rain, contained a server motherboard The parcelforce and royalmail people tend to be pretty good out there though. My house is slightly better but at this time of year can be painful. I had a guy skid to a stop in his van, leg it up the drive and knock on the door. Before I could open the door I heard his van skidding away so I ran out to wave at him. He nonchalantly informed me that my parcel was behind a wheelie bin. He hadn't bothered to put a card through the door so how was I supposed to work that out before bin day?

This has been going on for years, I think you're right, people do just assume as it's S/H or on ebay then it must be cheaper! Check these examples out for RRC tailgate handle trim MWC2480; Paddocks in a LR genuine box - http://www.paddockspares.com/mwc2480-finisher.html Ebay item, S/H and tatty - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-1992-VOGUE-TAILGATE-INNER-HANDLE-FINISHER-TRIM-/331642555931?hash=item4d376fce1b:g:6asAAOSwHnFV5IHB I've seen new items on ebay for £25+ exactly the same as the paddocks item.