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I bought a set of the truck lite LED's for my RRC and I think they're a massive improvement. In the CSK I had Wipac crystal with Halfords 120% brighter bulbs and I made up a relay wiring loom, I've put the LED lamps into the 4 door and they're a massive improvement. I'm even thinking about buying a set for my MGB GT V8

"I'm looking to lower the ride height for road driving, something to be able to corner at speed, as less body roll as possible" There isn't really anything that applies to what he wants but having the ability to change between low/stiff suspension for road use then raise the suspension for offroad at the push of a switch is surely close with far less hassle for a mixed use vehicle. Either using components from a P38/RRC setup or a defender designed setup. I wouldn't suggest this for use as a pure offroad vehicle in competition use but to me that doesn't seem to be what he's building...

Air suspension?

Can you find someone to plug it in to a fault reader, or is it fully ODB2 compliant and you could try to interrogate it with Torque and a cheap ODB bluetooth scanner?

JE / Twisted etc fit AP Racing 6 pot calipers to the front axle, they are a horrific price from JE and would need 18" wheels to fit over them.

There are a few conversions available for the SP250 Dart and the V8250 Saloon to a 5 speed box, one of which uses a supra gearbox. Not sure on changeability of toyota stuff but perhaps it's similar to the hilux or surf boxes? One link ffrom .nz - http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/results.php?Menu=8 We have two Daimlers in the family, a SP250 and a V8250, lovely engines. I had considered putting one in my Series 3 landy when I was 18 but I went with the ford V6 instead. Here is Russ Carpenters drag car running a blown 2.5 Turner V8 just for a bit of inspiration; https://youtu.be/iRCgKkPFsdI Be an interesting project if you could find an engine, also worth considering the larger 4.5 V8 engine from the Majestic Major saloon, although these are even rarer.

The earth for the sub amp (assuming RRC) is behind the cover over the sub in the boot. I think the amp is powered from ignition live rather than the conventional method of using a "remote power" signal from a head unit. Depending on model there may also be a second amp for each door speaker in the boot next to the sub amp.

That's very cool

Yup, as above, CSK has been running on the Paddock discs and they've been fine.

That would be a great idea! I've got a MGB GT V8 conversion to add along with several Daimlers There's not a great deal of that left...

A friend has a 4.6 with merlin heads and ported inlets, he regularly pulls a trailer, he's killed two flex plates but has been running with a "dual plate" setup for a few miles now. I guess being a bit more gentle with the right foot is an option

It's a shame we don't have a thread for the classic vehicles we have, I think it would get closed for being off topic though! I'd have been interested to see photos of the moggy

I'm fitting a bigger engine to my auto RRC and I've heard a few horror stories of flex plates letting go, has anyone ever solved this problem? A chat with a friend who has managed to kill two seems to suggest he solved it by fitting two flex plates. I had also considered getting a new one machined out of a thicker material? Or is all this just me being a little paranoid...

Totally off topic but I had the BGT V8 at a rolling road a few months back and there was a stunning moggy running a 2.0 Zetec on TB's, I reckon a V6 moggy would be even better!

It probably depends what alarm you have fitted... The alarm box is probably underneath the cowl beneath the steering wheel, it will have a part number on it. I spoke to a few people and hunted about for fobs for my 1994 hard dash but in the end I decided to get an aftermarket alarm fitted, my system was further complicated by having the internal sensors removed and some aftermarket immobiliser in the system too.

I fitted a fairly hefty roll bar when I took the roof off my series 3, I didn't find it obtrusive and liked the idea that it would provide me with some chance of survival should the worst happen. If you're dead set on not having any bar then perhaps have a look at a 4 point harness, anchor it to a bar behind the bulkhead. Personally I would be paranoid that I was going to roll and the harness would stop me from even trying to duck out the way.

Just swap the short engine over with the heads and use the rest of the bits from the D1, so use D2 block/heads and D1 front cover/inlet/sump/induction etc.

I've had to do it twice on the 4 door already, replacement heater sprung a leak a month after fitting it, imagine my joy! I'll do the CSK when I swap the engine back and do the other bits to prepare it for selling.

My 1993 RRC had exactly this issue before I bought it which is why I believe it was laid up. Heater seized a bearing, switch metled. On the RRC there's a fused link in the wiring loom that runs radio/aircon/heater and a few other bits which actually blew on mine, now replaced with a few different blade fuses. It certainly draws some current as I was originally using a 30amp fuse for the radio/aircon circuit but it would actually melt the fuse over a period of use before blowing. Replaced with a 40amp fuse and all has been OK. This is what led to the heater replacement in the topic about that car. Annoyingly the heater blower in the CSK has stopped working whilst it has been laid up, so that's something I need to sort. An enjoyable job, taking all that dash apart

That's from my CSK restoration thread, the photo is on here too

There's not much rover V8 left there, not much MGB left in the body shell either though!

Tempting to take the CSK to this if I still have it, could drag the caravan along too, I'd need to persuade the other half though

Thanks for putting in the ground work, I'm watching with a keen interest!

Would these fit a range rover classic? If so I would be interested should a third batch be made... I had a bit of a search but couldn't find a definitive answer on google.

I tried to join ADAC in the summer and was told I needed to have a German address, seems like this has changed again? When my RAC cover expires I will look into it again!