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Does it have the full-width main bearings and the lugs for the cross-bolts? I've had a few of the interim engines apart, some have holes for 14 bolt heads and some just for 10. It wouldn't surprise me if they just sapped the castings over for the blocks but didn't fully machine the block for the later front cover.

My '98 Discovery has done over 70k miles running on LPG with me, it has a single point mixer system that was installed before I got the vehicle, never had any bother that's been caused by the LPG system. I had a few back fires but this was rectified by fitting better plugs/leads. I've just ordered a BIGAS system for the CSK from TT, this replaces the AG SGI system I bought second hand for not much which has never run correctly.

Done

I use Google Maps, MM Tracker and CoPilot Live EU on both my Nexus 7 and my SGS2, depending on what I require. I have the WiFi only Nexus so sometimes it's nice to have a offline solution, saves having to tether.

Do you get any vibration through the pedal? What fault codes are stored in the ECU? Do the lights operate correctly on the dash?

I manage to cool a 3.9 EFi in a 88" with a standard radiator and a kenlowe fan.

Nice photos, thanks for putting them up, I really enjoyed spectating.

Thanks Ordered a Jerry can and the drill bits.

Bowie - Nice, I had often considered doing something similar, I just wonder how much of an improvement it would be. Perhaps if I get bored enough, although I don't think there's anywhere near enough room behind the headlights on the classic for this due to the battery tray. I still have the HID stuff in the garage, I also bought a pair of spotlight bulbs as I had considered fitting them into spotlights, couldn't find a neat way of doing it that would also have a good beam pattern though.

I fitted some HID's to my RRC inside the crystal headlamp bowls. The beam-pattern wasn't amazing, the cut-off on the N/S was far too high on low beam and I found I was lighting up the inside of cars I was overtaking on the motorway, I removed them for this reason. Without fitting them into a proper projector housing I think you will struggle to get a decent beam pattern from them. I now run some Halfrauds 150% bulbs (still 55/60W) coupled with the "relay wiring" method and find the light output to be just as good, although not as "bling".

I'm building something that isn't a Land Rover so that's my excuse for not having a build thread going on currently

All the panels I used on the CSK were from YRM where available. The boot floor was a Discovery item and I had to fabricate several items due to no availability at the time. Since the rebuild there appear to be far more panels on the market and YRM have increased their range. I found the YRM panels to be good quality and also they fitted well. I agree with Darren, taking the body off the chassis will make this a far easier task, I didn't get my body galv'd as I had heard horror stories. The YRM metal is zinc coated metal and the whole thing has a *lot* of waxoyl and seam sealer on it, so it should be OK for a few years I'd be interested in seeing a rebuild thread to follow your work

Dropped in to visit my parents in the peak and found a Disco 3 that had argued with a lamp post, it looked like they both lost. Disco 3 had just been abandoned.

I might got for a drive up to the peaks tonight, it's coming down well in Derby

Don't click "OK" on any of the boxes, ignore them. Create a new user account Start > Control Panel > Users > New User (you may have to set control panel to "classic" view) log in with the new user account and see if the messages still come up. Unfortunately the only sure-fire way to eradicate the malware/virus/infection is a rebuild. Pressing F1, ESC or some other key (possibly detailed in instructions or on-screen) may allow you to boot a recovery partition on the HDD. Shame you're not closer, I'd have fixed it for you. If you can get it into a stable environment then someone you trust can connect using "remote assistance" and poke around to see if they can fix the issue.

I remember driving all the way from Burton to Nottingham, in rush hour, to drag you up a very busy road that day. It left a nice dent in the back of your axle case

Hi, Which Overfinch conversion did it undergo? Do you have the documentation and does it have the bonnet badges? It's worth restoring if you want to keep it, you can just sell it for the running gear to be transferred into a different project. You do lose the heritage doing that and you will get less. There has been one for sale recently, at a vastly over-inflated price, I'm not sure it it's sold now but it certainly hadn't after many months when I last looked. Post some photos up so people can make a more informed decision on restoration? Engine parts are probably obtainable from real-steel, I'm sure there are other places, someone more informed than me will likely know where Suspension parts are probably KONI dampers and special springs, there are a lot of places selling springs of all different types so... Hope this helps

If I do mail-order stuff I use LRSeries or Famous Four. I have a lot of local Land Rover parts places that I use; Shardlow 4x4 DLS Paddock Morleys and also a very good breaker local to me. I tend to buy fixings from a local shop called Shaftesbury Fixings.

See, I've been giving this some thought lately. I have a tuned 4.6 with a SGI injected LPG kit (no lambda control) that's running along side my re-mapped hotwire system. I've been thinking about megasquirt or at least megajolt for a while, seems like a nice winter project. I will most likely just go Megajolt though.

I saw one for sale on leboncoin, a French site a bit like Gumtree, that had a disco 300 day grafted in. Was a 92 2 door, looked like an interesting conversion.

Thanks for the write-up We're heading over in July so expect it to be hot, I really must get the air-con fixed in the CSK. Currently I have very road-bias wheels/tyres fitted, better for fuel consumption but perhaps not so good for dodgy roads, I might swap back to the original wheels with a something a little more suitable as I'm worried about damage. The plan is probably to just use the one vehicle once we reach Romania, I'm not sure James is going to cope very well in his ground hugging Megane with some of the more rural roads. It will also save on fuel We have a local "tour guide" once in Romania so hope to avoid some of the normal tourist pitfalls.

I have 1.2.2 as a .apk, message me your email address and I can send it over?

Cheers, I'll check ADAC out, someone else suggested them on a different forum too. The CSK was only rebuilt year before last but the plan was to give it a very thorough service before setting off

A few years ago, probably after some beer, my friend and I came up with the plan of driving to Romania to see a friend of ours. Fast forward to last month and we've now set a date for this endeavour, July next year. Our current plan is to drive to Harwich, get the ferry to Hook and drive down to Romania from there. With overnight stops. There will be two vehicles to our convoy, I'm planning to take the CSK and James is taking his Megane Sport. We will each be taking our partners too, so there should be a decent amount of space available between the two cars. Has anyone done a trip like this before? I'm planning to take some normal spare parts with me such as fan belts, brake pads, oils etc. I'm also going to take a decent set of tools and a good rope. Any suggestions on other spare parts? ECU's perhaps? I've been looking at breakdown cover, a must I think, and am a little worried about who's going to get my pride and joy back to the UK in the event of a breakdown or accident. I'm currently with the AA but they're euro cover sounds sketchy in places. Who have you used for breakdown cover and what were they like? Lastly, any suggestions of places to visit on the way? We're going for 17 days, looking to spend around 10 days actually in Romania. My friend wants to stop at Nurburgring on the way back and we're going to stop at a Spa in Hungary on the way down. My friend in Romania has planned a fairly extensive itinerary of places in Romania itself but we will need to sleep in a few locations on the way down and back.

Check the connection on the W terminal at the back of the alternator.