Chubby M

I'm in a pub now, under the banner of "networking in London"... New Lucas switch ordered, arriving 2 April. Will update you all, HUGE THANKS!

First off - huge thanks to everyone for your help on this.... especially @FridgeFreezer, @Snagger, @mat2495 Hi all, having spent a good portion of today with test lamp and volt / resistance meter, the below are the data I found and also extracts from @FridgeFreezer using his great wiring diagram extract, plus Mat2495's diagram too. Based on what I’ve read, I think the issue looks to be: No feed at the column switch on the LGN (Light Green, brown trace) with ignition on or off, except when then Hazards are ON. I’ve been able to trace an LGN / LG / Green feed as below. Am I right in concluding the Hazard switch must be shutting off the LGN feed when the Hazard is OFF? Is there anything else that might cause the below? Extract @FridgeFreezer Also, the fact the hazards work just indicates that the flasher is OK and the hazard switch works in the "on" position, it could be cutting power to the flasher when switched "off" so you need to check that. Hazard switch OFF you have ignition-switched power from the dark green wire onto the light green wire to power the flasher unit when the ignition is on. The output from the flasher unit goes on a light green wire with brown stripe to the column switch. Hazard switch ON you have permanent live from the purple wire to the light green wire to power the flasher unit when the ignition is OFF. Looking at power on the Light Green, Brown trace on the column stalk; Ignition off / Hazard ON Ignition off/ Hazard OFF Ignition ON / Hazard ON Ignition ON / Hazard Off Feed (LGN wire) 10.8v 0 10.8v 0 Having looked at how the Hazard Switch is working. Testing for voltage on the loom connector terminals (connected to the hazard switch); Wire Ignition off Ignition On Ignition ON / Hazard ON Ignition OFF / Hazard ON Purple 13.3v 13.1v 13.1v 12.9v Dark Green 0 12.9v 12.6v 0 Light green, Brown trace 0 0 12.1v 12.1v Looking at the Flasher unit and feeds into / out of; Wire Ignition off / Hazard ON Ignition OFF / Hazard off Ignition ON / Hazard ON Ignition ON / Hazard Off Light Green, Brown trace 10.8v 0 10.8v 0 Light green, no trace 12.6v 0 12.6v 0 Light Green, purple trace 12.6v 0 12.6v 0 Any suggestions / comments very much appreciated. Huge thanks as always......

Thanks for this, will keep digging... thanks for the responce.

Much appreciated - I'll keep digging and look at the two tests you not re Hazards On and Off... thank you for taking the time to offer help...

Afternoon all, and huge thanks for the input thus far. Having spent another few hours with volt meter, test lamp etc... the position is; 1. Hazards are 100%, relay working, all 6 lights (incl. 2 repeaters) work, no issue. I've checked all the connections to the harness, nice and tight and clean. 2. 12.5v present at the column switch (purple - see image) on all three ign stages incl. no key. This is the new column switch. 3. Positive feed is present (12.5v) at the relay (evidenced also with hazards working). Relay is new (last 6 months or so). 4. Removing the hazard switch I can short (using fused wire link) the perm feed to each side (left and right) and get a permanent light. Nothing available still from the stalk...... (at least the horn works on the end of the stalk 🙂) I'm perplexed and have no idea where to go next with this one... I have prayed to the Land Rover gods for mercy, but I now convinced this truck is haunted.... Any ideas please? What am I missing please chaps?

Great many thanks, will take a look tomorrow....

Many thanks and a very fair point 🙂

Hi @mat2495 The switch is a new replacement, changed this over a few weeks back when diagnosing the hazard circuits.

Thanks @western Its a brand new stalk, all the connectors were tight when I fitted. I also checked and cleaned the rubber connector pins (what a game that was pulling that apart!!!!).

thanks @Snagger I'll check this...

I'll check this - would you know what colour the ignition live wire is please? -purple. I'll check.

My call out here was to @LandyManLuke for his superb diagnostic as noted above.

Afternoon gents. After 8 years of ground up rebuild I'm just about ready to get an MOT and get back on the road - BUT..... bl**dy indicators!!! I've used the superb online materials from the forum history (including from 2008), to diagnose between the hazards and indicators (Sorry but I cannot remember the original contributors). I've spent about two weeks trying to find the issue but have failed completely...... - So hers goes with the issue I have; 1. Hazards on (no key, Ignition position 1 or 3) - all lights and repeaters flashing and working 100% - therefore all feeds to the bulbs and the flasher unit are ok. 2. With the hazard switch unit off I can force a feed to either side of the truck, again confirms no issue with the light units. Using the purple perm feed and a fused link to either Left (Green / Red) or Right (Green / White). 3. I've checked every fuse I can find including the in cab fuse for indicators (10A, left side, second from bottom) (see picture) - to confirm this is ok I used a resistance meter and also this fuse feeds the brake lights - these work 100%. 4. Indicators Left or Right (no key, Ignition position 1 or 3) - no feed at any unit. My conclusion - must have been a column mount stalk / switch issue. 5. Blue box company replacement (£35) fitted - feeling super confident that its all done - BUT NO..... 6. I can trace feeds to the stalk but cannot find a break that stops the indicator circuits (both sides) working. Worth noting all other electrics are 100% working, just the indicator circuits that are failing. Any help hugely appreciated as this feels like my last hurdle before getting back on the road...

Hi all, so a follow on from the extremely helpful thread and a "confirming my conclusion" type question: I think my hazard switch is faulty because: When I remove and bypass the switch and link Perm Supply to Left or Right indicators - they light per side, as expected (no flashing) When I remove and bypass the switch and link Perm Supply to Supply to Flasher - the stalk works per side, and I have left or right flashing indicators Therefore: Stalk is ok, loom and loom plug is ok and flasher unit is ok (its a new replacement). I then turn on the ignition and bypass the switch replacing the Perm feed for the Light switch supply - both tests repeated and all 100% correct. Then, when I connect the switch (its a new one - hours old, replacing the original faulty unit); Ignition off, hazards on - 100% fine, all flashing merrily away. Ignition on, hazards on - 100% fine Ignition on, hazard switch off, left indicator stalk selected - Not good: all lights flash (as if hazard switch on) ignition on, hazard switch off, right indicator stalk selected - Not good: all lights flash as above. So, I see no other route than the switch, frustrating as its new (not a blue box item). Is there anything else I may have missed? Daft question but is there more than one type of hazard switch? My truck is an 1986 110. The replacement switch can from AllMakes4x4, ref. YUF101490 On the plus side, While in the spaghetti of wiring I have got all the side, main and ancillary lights working... thats a massive step forward. Could finish the build this year (year 7 as my wife reminds me constantly).... Any suggestions gratefully received. Chubby

@LandyManLuke I've been struggling for a day on the indicators so thought I'd try and find some help.... And here it is.... Huge thanks to you for taking the time to pen this article, I'm working through it now step my step... Again the value of a community, Chubby.

Good afternoon gents, after a protracted break (DIY as penance for not getting the truck sorted - apparently 6 years is a long time...).... I've some news, which I thought may be of use for others. First off @monkie @simonb@western and @Hawklord My sincere thanks for your thoughts, insight etc. I've spent 48 hours following @monkie instructions and suggestions.... I've fixed it, the truck heats and fires!!!!! While not 100% sure which action sorted the issues the following are what I did to address apparent weak earth, loose connections etc.. 1. Disconnect and clean / re-fit all earth straps - battery to chassis, chassis to engine, chassis to gearbox / transfer box and added a chassis to bulkhead. 2. Disconnect and clean all positive feeds to positive bus on the starter motor. Some oil and debris here. 3. Re-fitted a shielded femail spade end to the starter solenoid (was damaged and loose). I think this traces to the white / red on terminal 4. 4. removed the ignition barrel mounting etc. and cleaned the rusted stearing column, to ensure the switch was well earthed. 5. replaced all fuses on the bulk head fuse and one inline fuse (white / black from memory while the dash was out). Of note also from a testing perspective, I bought a cheep test lamp (with a voltage LED) instead of the multimeter which I found so much easier for voltage tests. Delighted to note I have hot glow plugs etc... just the ancillary circuits to test and connect now. Thank you all.

Great support @monkie I really do appreciate this. I spent yesterday plodding through the tests and loom checks as you mentioned, still no firm cause of my issues but I have a clear way forward for which I am very grateful. the power of community evident again here. Huge thanks. Chubby,

Ok heres another one in case this jogs a view from anyone. The cassis number of the truck SALLDHMV7 BA xxxxxxxx This if I'm decoding it right suggests it started as a petrol 3.5ltr v8. The conversion to 2.5 turbo diesel was donkeys years ago so not expecting this to be an issue (no least as it used to run ok pre strip down) but.... if it triggers an idea please call it out..

Just reconnected everything per the original wiring and tried the truck. It fires eventually, the glow plugs warming on crank only. Once running (position 2) I have power at the heater, wipers and radio (plus two purple constant lives). Struggling to get power to show up in the lighting circuits (dash lights etc.) and the indicators / hazard flashers (no noise from the relays either). @Hawklord thanks for the thread - I'll read and see what that brings.

And the God of Looms strike back with vengeance...... I am smitted, a fallen man and clearly not worthy of owning a 110..... Received today a shiny new genuine LR column lock and switch (genuine lucas part fitted as standard) - a simple swap over and full of anticipation for the impending victory over the God of Looms.... Replacement shiny genuine LR part fitted, time for multimeter.... Positive feed connected to term. 5, all other wires left off the switch. Time to turn the key.... Bloody thing still does not read volts on terminal 2 (Brown / Red) in position 2 as per the spec, the manual and all collected wisdom.... Worse, the actual results are IDENTICAL to the above for the three switches I have (including no feed on position 1 for the ancillaries, lights etc.) and still no shagging feed to the glow plugs..... The only time I get a feed to the glow plug terminal is on cranking. I have no idea what to do now...... Is there any chance that the starter solenoid or some other cut off / relay is interfering...? I can only think now my only option is the 200/300TDI relay route, but that does not solve the underlying issue... All Help very much appreciated......

@simonb Interesting suggestions, will try in the morning. I thought about the barrel lock, but position 3 cranking is fine.. it does possibly feel "loose" between position 0, 1 and 2 - but I may be making that up as its been such a pig of a few weeks with this.

Hi - two images attached, wired up genuine part received last week and original PRC unit removed as thought faulty. Starter bus feed connected to term 5, glow plus (brown / Red) connected to term 2 etc. as diagrams above. No feed at term 2 until cranking (position 3) etc. as above. Hard to believe isn't it... it all looks right, but three units show consistently wrong feeds. Chubby.

It is perplexing... three potentially ok PRC2735 and the wiring matches as required, but still no power at term 2 for the glow plugs despite a constant and strong 12.6v at term 5 direct form the starter bus. I've spent another four hours testing and looking for any fuses / relays that may be impacting - nothing... Anyone want to buy a 110 project.......

@Hawklord Hi - yes the glow plugs were working previously - in so far as there was power at the brown / red lead, connected to the first glow plug on cyl 4. Since strip and rebuild, oddly there is now no power at the ign switch. @simonb Hi Simon, I'm still struggling with the LR part PRC2735, connected per diagram above from Monkey (5 July). With this switch the only option for the Brown and Brown / Red leads are terminals 5 and 2 as these are the only two at 10mm spade ends. I like the idea of the Lucas switch route, that though would be switch number four.... (3 PRC2735s) so far. @monkie Mine is currently the PRC2735, same as the image you shared.

@monkie - Yes all cabling disconnected, only the positive feed on terminal 5. I've chased the voltage from positive battery post to starter positive bus and an unbroken feed cable to the switch (t5). No loss of voltage etc. I've also double checked all bulkhead fusing, no breaks. The only possible area of breakdown / weakness may be the rear loom to bulkhead loom where the pins needed cleaning on reassembly but I cannot see any connection here to the glow plug circuit. The switch is simply not doing what I / we expect. And its the same for all three (the original unit, the blue box replacement and the new LR part). I've even tried one of the units on the bench with a positive feed and home made "post" to turn it in case the barrel pillar in the lock mechanism was not turning correctly. Same results as above. @western Thanks for the lucas image. I was looking at these earlier on a US forum set of posts. Do I assume that ident 35288 could be a swap and details that there should be feed at terminal 2? Its the same config of terminals as the three switches I now own 🙂