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neilc

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Everything posted by neilc

  1. Has anyone ever managed to replace the yellow washer bottle top with something else that fits , mine has split , how can they be £10+ , ridiculous , I've hunted through the recycling and tried countless different bottle tops but they are either too large or too small ,I don't mind spending decent money on parts but £10 for a 50p size of yellow plastic is ridiculous , any sensible suggestions would be appreciated , thanks .
  2. Morning , Just a quick question re 40 year MOT exemption , does the car need an actual 40th year MOT? The situation I am in is this , my MOT next year (year 40 ) expires in July , However my series wasnt manufactured until September so technically im assuming it requires an MOT from July until September. Is this the case? if not can I just park it up for 6 weeks or doesnt it require a valid MOT when the 40 years kicks in Thanks,
  3. Markyboy , Sorry , havent been on forum over last couple of weeks , I can get it later today if you still require it.
  4. its all a bit make shift at moment , im jut about to make it secure . Thanks.
  5. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1MY78ccmximTfUxM8 Finally received my Chinese relay headlight loom., needed a bit of chopping and changing , however I've installed it with no real issues , no need for illegal bulbs now ! Thanks all for advice
  6. IVe sorted it thanks It was the ridge that the valve slid down , it wasnt machined properly so I filed mms off it and now it works great, thanks for all the advice. Cheers.
  7. Hello again , Just looking at this , thick and thin brown wires go to the starter solenoid , a lot of people state they have theirs going directly to he starter motor itself , does it make any difference? , if it doesnt it would be a lot easier for me to take the wires to the starter rather than the solenoid .
  8. Evening , I have fitted a new alternator and realised that the plug was covered in oil , I ordered a new one ( when i look at it now ill probably clean the old one up and add new spades as the new one is a bit flimsy) and removed the old plug , I have put the new plug on , however the wires and coating were very brittle and I had to cut off about 2cm to get the new connectors on , it works , however im not that happy with it. i know where all the wires go and what they do , however can I just order a 17 AMP thick wire and 2 smaller wires (approx 1 metre) and just send the same 2 to the starter solenoid and the other to the charger light or even splice them in to give me more wire length or isnt it that simple? Also can someone please advise how thick all the wires need to be , a new harness is £40 , seems a bit steep for 3 metres of wire and a few spades (as i say i already have the old plug cleaned up) Thanks
  9. Thinking about it I might just buy the 17 amp wire and relays as suggested by snagger this eBay set up looks really thin.
  10. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153763778314 Apologies , thanks
  11. Could I use one of these harnesses , it isn't fused directly ( would be tidier) however there is an in line fuse , I could buy red/white , red/ blue cable , 2 fused relays , bullet connectors , spade connectors for about another £10 , however that seems to be creating a lot of connections and therefore more room for error , bullet connectors alone are a complete nightmare . This seems to be all sealed , although the earths look this so I would probably bulk them up a bit https://photos.app.goo.gl/1xwGdDJkCxHvRcaZA
  12. I will initially rewire the red/blue , white/blue wires to bullet connectors and bulbs and add relays before upgrading bulbs , I'll even try to get original coloured wiring ! , Can anyone suggest what type strength of wire would be best , thanks .
  13. Evening , I have halogen bulbs in the landy 82 series 3, 55w , original wiring , I if add fused relays I read that I can upgrade to 100w without melting the dash/switches , as always I have a query , I read that 100w bulbs are illegal for use in vehicles made after 1986 ( I think that's right) , this doesn't affect me, however , if this is the case why are they so readily available? , also with the fused relays will my current wiring cope and where is the best place to position them Thanks in advance , My current headlights , wires , earth , connections are all working , however I drive country lanes and need a bit more power .
  14. I'll have a look , that would make perfect sense , I'll let you know , thanks
  15. About 18 months ago I fitted a new heater valve its been a problem ever since ( not a major issue ) , every time I switch lever from cold to hot or reverse it springs back , I have taken the cable out , removed it from surround and oiled it , it moves freely in the surround to the point that I can totally take cable out and feed it back in freely , the valve also moves fully by hand with ease , however if you connect the cable to the valve its as if there is resistance and when you push the lever down it springs back up. I have adjusted the cable so that it does reach extremes , on/off when assisted by hand however cannot undersand what the problem is , can anyone offer any advice , it appreciate it , thanks
  16. That's exactly what I needed , thanks .
  17. Has anyone got a diagram of where the bolts go on the Alternator please , its been so long since I've taken it out that I've forgotten , I know the ling bolt fixies the bracket to the block and the one on the Alternator fixes to that .The problem I'm having is that I then still have another long bolt that's about 3 inches and another 2 that are about half the size . Does the long bolt go straight through the alternator and the bracket or is this fixed with the two smaller bolts ? , I seem to have too many bolts , a diagram would be very much appreciated , I can't find one , thanks
  18. I've sorted it , I was just attempting to put a spacer washer on it when I realised the spacer washer would need to have a notch cut out of it to get it over the little marker . Whilst using my dremmel to cut of the notch I had a thought . I put the fan part on a flat surface and realised that the middle was raised ( to be fair , I think it should be ) so I tapped the centre with a spanner and it levelled off. Now when I put the fan part back on it clears the body by approx 2mm , probably not the ideal solution but it worked , thanks for the advice .
  19. Nope , the shaft and collar can't be adjusted ?
  20. I tried to open the sealed unit and it cracked .... Worth a go , I've ordered a new one from eBay for £11.00 , with the postage .
  21. Is it just a case of putting a thick washer between the collar and the fan ?
  22. Ill put a picture on in the morning , thanks
  23. I've purchased a new Alternator for my 2.25 petrol series 3 ( correct part ) , the bladed part seems to drag on the body as it spins ( by hand , I haven't installed yet ) is this correct ?, does the G force of opeation push it away from the body ? Any advice would be appreciated , thanks
  24. Thanks for the reply , it does appear sealed , however its not the actual bulb , the bulb goes in via the back , (Halogen I think) , its not my everyday vehicle any longer so theres no rush and I suppose theres no harm in trying to carefully prise it open if its dead anyway so when I get a chance ill give it a go , ive nothing to lose really, As you say the bowl of the fitting really is thin so its likely to crack , maybe gentle heat may help. Ill let you know.
  25. One of the headlights on the series 3 has gone yellow inside due to sitting and facing the sun ( I think). MOT isnt due for 6 months so no rush, I was wondering if the chrome mirrored paint that you can buy is as good as it looks and could be sprayed on to make the lamp usable , I have a bit of an issue throwing things away when they can be repaired so was thinking it may be worth a go , any thoughts on this please. Thanks,
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