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old/new england

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    New England

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  1. That's why I'm here; attempting the understand exactly how the wiper wiring works. 'Changing parts and hoping' didn't seem like such a bad idea when I was talking about half an hour and a $20 column switch followed by a $20 park switch.
  2. Yeah, it's a really early Ninety, with an 'AA' prefix on the chassis number, so quite right, it's lacking in relays compared to the later ones. The factory were making this era with some leftover series-model type details; like galvanized bumpers and rain channels etc. I've had it for years now and unlike most of my vehicles which come and go, I still love this little'un. I'll get to the bottom of this silly problem.
  3. No, there doesn't seem to be. Every wire going into the fuse box is factory, it looks like its never had any aftermarket lights, stereo, nothing. At a time like this, I feel like running a brand new circuit though...
  4. Hi all, just a quick update on this, especially for anybody in the future who finds they've got the same issue. So I bought a genuine Land Rover wiper motor, fitted it (which isn't a bad job) yesterday, but sadly things are still not operating right. Which means that in summary: I've replaced the column switch (genuine) 2 park switches (one Britpart, and an unknown removed from a spare motor I had lying around) and now finally a new genuine wiper motor -and I still can't turn off my wipers. Frustrating, obviously, but I'll choose to find the silver lining which is that I now have new components throughout the windscreen wiper system, which should mean that once I've resolved this, I'll have another couple of decades before I have to do it again... But more importantly is what I've learned, so; the park switch is a known problematic component on vehicles suffering from this, but the park switch is activated by the reverse side of the wiper gear (which is a separate part fitted inside the wiper motor) and I'm almost certain it's that which is causing my issues. It seems that if the wiper motor has a black cylindrical casing then it's an aftermarket pattern part, and if the casing is silver then it's genuine Land Rover (based on all the photos I've seen of the genuine parts vs the aftermarket ones, and from what I just bought). When I took off my old one, it had a black casing, which means it's almost certainly pattern, which means that it has been replaced before. My new genuine motor one is silver, and came without wiper motor gear inside it, so I had to remove this gear from the malfunctioning wiper motor and transplant it into my new genuine one. So that wiper motor gear may now be inside its 3rd wiper motor. Whilst I'd got it all apart, I studied how the gear operates the park switch plunger, and considering it's the only part I havn't replaced, then for now I must assume it's the most likely cause of my issues. In my case, it's stamped with 115 degrees, but it seems there are 90 degree gears too. Any way I can only assume that it isn't moving the plunger far enough in, to activate the park switches 'off' function. While transplanting this part, I refitted the circlip mentioned above by hurbie, and I can see how that could also be a problem, although in my case it wasn't. Any way, I am ordering a new wiper motor gear (only going with genuine at this point) and should be able to fit that part next weekend, and I feel obliged to take a few photos and share them on here, hopefully to help anybody else who is tearing their hair out with this in the future!
  5. Ah, that sounds promising. I'll take a look when I have some repair time set aside again. I appreciate everyone's input.
  6. Yup, exactly the same there. Red at bottom, yellow in middle and then last colour at 90 degrees top. The blue station wagon in my avatar is one from my past, but the white 90 just about visible behind it is the one with the wipers poltergeist. My RAF V8 is an '89 though, I really like that year's simple '110' badge, personally. Even though most of them lost them ages ago. Little things for little minds.
  7. Thanks for those two links, I'd found Gadget's one previously and found it very useful, so thanks Gadget if you happen to be reading. While I had the steering column apart, I could see the scope for error there!!! In fact I was kind of hoping I wouldn't need to take it apart again for that reason... The wiring diagram seems so simple, especially as mine (being an early 90) is a barely-Defender. I may just grab a genuine LR wiper motor and fit it, I always figure that it's never a total waste, as it's one less thing to worry about. The wiring diag doesn't show a lot more than those parts, the wires and the fuse. aaahhh.
  8. Non genuine motor? Not sure how to tell, there are no obviously visible markings on it. While working down there I noticed that somebody had spliced the black wire and crimped in a second earth wire, implying somebody has had a go at fixing this in the past. It's the only altered wire I've found on the whole vehicle, incredibly enough. It's not a great comment on me that I've had it 5 years and never bothered to fix it (ashamed).
  9. I see what you mean, I've got nothing to lose at this point. I'm trying to understand the flow of electricity; obviously when the steering column mounted switch is operated, voltage is allowed to pass down the line, where it goes through the park switch, and the wiper motor. I'm just struggling with the concept of it not stopping when I de-activate the column mounted switch. While fitting the park switches, I noticed there was a ramp inside the wiper motor, positioned to operate the little plastic plunger which protrudes from the park switch. I'm assuming that is an on/off mechanism? If so, I'm baffled why 3 different park switches achieved nothing. I guess I'm still hung up on my new PRC3900 being a duff one.
  10. I'm dragging this thread back to life because it's unresolved. Over the Summer I've been enjoying myself in my '89 ex-RAF V8 with the tilt rolled up, but before the bad weather sets back in -I decided to finally fix the wipers on my '85 hard top (the one with these wiper issues). So I took the dash end off, and being a LHD it was easy to get to and I'd traded the park switch out in a few minutes. Suspected it couldn't be that easy though, and sadly I found the wipers still won't turn off. So in summary it's got a new steering mounted wiper stalk thing (genuine Lucas one), and a new park switch (blue box). I considered the possibility the new park switch was a broken-from-new Britpart, and as I had a spare new wiper motor I took the park switch of that one and fitted it to the motor in my '85, just as a process of elimination. The wipers still won't stop, using park switch number 3 -so I plan to put aside the park switch as the cause. I checked my earth was good, and it's completing the circuit fine. So I fitted the park switch back onto my spare new wiper motor in order to try out an entirely new wiper motor assembly. But instead of wasting more time fitting it, I just connected it whilst holding it my hand. Wipers still won't turn off. So I'm just wondering if any of you have had this happen before?
  11. For anybody else suffering the same minor irritation, a resolution; I just ordered a few parts I needed and included was another gear knob. The insert on this one was made of a harder compound, had an opening more similar in size to the lever it screws onto and finally, it arrived threaded. I've only been using it a day, but I can already tell this is how they should be: it doesn't wobble, move, twist, or turn. So it turns out that Bearmach make a good one.
  12. Sounds like a good solution. Sadly, the fact that you've had to do that, shows how dire the need is for a simple, threaded gear knob.
  13. @retroanaconda, Yeah, I hear you on the genuine gear knob. It's odd the way the percentage increase in cost of genuine parts over pattern parts can vary so much. In the case of the gear knob, the genuine one is an unusually higher hike in price, over the pattern one.
  14. For my ex-RAF 110 with a V8 and an LT85 gearbox. It's a petty question, but one that would make my life just a wee bit better: My gear knob had grown looser and started to revolve around too much, so I traded it out for a new one, it turned out to be 'AllMakes 4x4' brand. As you all know, the gear knob is usually hard plastic, with a soft sleeve as an inner. I patiently turned this new knob onto the threaded gear lever (which is probably 4mm bigger than the knob's insert). All straight, okay and tight. A week later the knob is sitting wonky on the top of the lever, moves when you go for reverse -and clearly won't last long at all. My blue 110 wagon has a knob that just sits square on its LT77 lever and doesn't move, it is LOVELY. Does anybody know of a/the brand that just makes a solid gear knob? You know, a knob that screws on and stays that way, nice and solid, without that soft insert?
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