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Hello to everyone. I am new to the subject with the fuel injector pumps. For better reference see all pictures I applied. I have a 1997 300TDI with EGR Land Rover Defender 110 Hardtop. My engine is a 21L (see images below), EGR is blanked, not removed. I have no immobilisation. There is an iron rope/ linkage between the throttle and the pump itself. The numbers on my fuel injector pump,s shield with an EGR device are: Bosch 0 460 414 099 ERR4046. My questions are: 1) It is possible to replace it/interchange it with a Bosch 0 460 414 093 ERR1985 (see images below).? Will my car run smoothly? By doing so is there any possibility for ruining my engine? This pump comes from a freshly removed still running engine and I know for sure that it is functioning properly (see pictures for more reference). 2) I notice that between the pump body and the engine block itself on my original pump there is a linkage with a spring (see picture) and on the one that I potentially will fit there is no such spring. What is the role and function of this spring. Could it be that the previous owner could have removed it, or the pump was manifactured by Bosch without this spring for a reason? Every personal experience, advice and explanation would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance for your answers.

Many thanks to everyone who took part!

I do not speak English, I use Google Translate. In an effort to edit my post, I republished it 2-3 times. It was not intentional. The edit menu does not open yet. Excuse me.

No, I just research enough about everything before I make a final decision.

Hello, I want to change my clutch kit. My truck is a Land Rover Defender 110 HARD TOP 300TDI, It was produced on 09-01-1997. The engine is 300tdi, The gearbox is a R380 Please answer the following questions: A) Which clutch is preferable / you would use /, for what reasons : 1) Land Rover Performance Clutch Kit - OE STC8358 Item number: 3000.950.701-S manufactured by the company SACHS : https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit/zf-sachs/performance-clutch-3000950701-s OR 2)POWERspec TDI 200/300tdi manufactured by the company LOF clutches : https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/powerpec-tdi-300tdi-heavy-duty-clutch/ B) For LOF clutches: What is the % higher transmitted torque of the POWERspec TDI 200/300 tdi kit compared to OEM? https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/powerpec-tdi-300tdi-heavy-duty-clutch/ What is the torque capacity of the POWERspec TDI 200/300 tdi kit in Nm ? https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/powerpec-tdi-300tdi-heavy-duty-clutch/ What is the clamping force /eject fors/ of the POWERspec TDI 200/300 tdi kit in N or kg ? https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/powerpec-tdi-300tdi-heavy-duty-clutch/ 4) What will be the weight of the pedal if I install /put/ a 2.8 TGV HS International POWERspec kit - (Also fits TDI) and a DEFENDER POWER MASTER BUNDLE Spring and Master Cylinder on my truck? https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/2-8-tgv-powerspec-kit/ https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/pedal-assist-products/defender-power-master-bundle-spring-master-cylinder/ 5) The weight of the pedal from point 4) is equal to or less or greater than if I mount /put/ on my truck POWERspec TDI 200/300 tdi kit and Defender POWER MASTER BUNDLE Spring and Master Cylinder? https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/powerpec-tdi-300tdi-heavy-duty-clutch/ https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/pedal-assist-products/defender-power-master-bundle-spring-master-cylinder/ Thank you in advance. I do not speak English! I use google translator.

Hello to everyone. I own a 2.5 litre 300 TDI Defender 110 Hardtop from 1997. I have several questions about the following issue: Let's suppose that while driving offroad in the wild bush the engine runs completely out of fuel and the fuel tank is completely dry (in other words the engine stops running because of lack of fuel and the whole fuel system is dry). 1) What should I do in this case? 2) Is there any danger of damaging the engine? 3) After refueling with diesel, it is possible and if yes how can I restart the engine, without damaging it? 4) Is there any need to bleed the fuel system (dry pipelines, pumps, etc.), in order to eliminate the air, that was probably sucked from the working pumps? How can I do this? 5) Are there any exact points or orifices for bleeding, through which the air can get out, after removing their plugs (for example on the injector pump, fuel filter, etc.)? The reason why I ask you such questions are: A) I often travel alone overlanding. I want to be fully prepared and know what exactly to do if such a thing happens to me when I am all alone in the wildness, and there is no help avaiable . B) I friend of mine owned a Td5 Defender, and now owns a 2012 MY Defender. He said that in both owner manuals it is written that the fuel tank must not be left dry in order not to block or damage the engine, and yet if this happens, that there is a special procedure to be followed by the owner, after refueling, that will help him to restart the engine successfully. I would really appreciate if all of you who have a lot more knowledge in Land Rovers than me share information or their personal experience with this issue. Thank you in advance for your kind help.

Thanks to all a lot. Now it will be much easier for me choose the right stuff. (Sorry for responding SOOO LATE , but for a long time I lived in a remote area with no access to the Internet)

Hello to everyone, I have some questions about my clutch and tyres. My Defender is a 110 300 TDI Two Door Hardtop RHD MY 1997. Would appreciate every sincere answer especially from those from you with personal experience. A) Clutch - Unfortunately mine is DAMAGED: 1) Are the clutch cover assembly, clutch pressure plate, clutch plate, clutch central bearing, the flywheel and the clutch release fork the same on all Defenders, Discoveries and Range Rover Classics fitted with a 300 TDI engine? Should I modify something in order the new clutch to be installed? I am asking this because the previous owner has mounted a 300 TDI engine from a Discovery with code 21L and number 61023A whereas the original 300 TDI Defender engine was with code 23L. My Gearbox is R380 with number 56A.0529573J. 2) I use my Defender for expedition offroad fully loaded to its capacity maximum (as prescribed) from 3050 kg. Taking this in mind what would you recommend me to buy: a) a Genuine Land Rover Heavy Duty clutch kit and clutch parts or b) some other brand ? If the last which brands offering Heavy Duty Clutch Kit would you recommend from your own experience? Are there brands with better quality than the Genuine Land Rover Heavy Duty one? Which brands should I definitely avoid because of poor quality? 3) Are there any other parts that I am obliged to replace when changing the clutch - bearings, bushes, bolts, clips, clutch release fork? 4)There are two types of offered Genuine Land Rover clutch plates: a) 235 mm NORMAL DUTY b) 245mm HEAVY DUTY What is the difference between them in terms of vehicle driveability, reliability, torque deliverance (transmission) from engine to gearbox and resistance to wear? B) Steering Swivels If one of them gets damaged / broken could it be replaced for its own, or it is obligatory both to be replaced in order to be the same? C) Tyres My Defender was sold from the previous owner with 4 numbers of 285/75 R16 General Grabber AT1 tyres fitted with 30 mm wheelspacers. The suspension and axle components are factory standard. 1)Do the size and weight of those 4 tyres cause excessive load and premature wear of propeller and drive shafts, hub wheel bearings, steering swivels and the bearings of the steering swivels? When I am fully loaded and in offroad environment is there a danger of premature breakage of all components mentioned above while climbing a steep hill or driving through very deep mud and/ or snow with fitted snowchains on every wheel. 2) I am considering to buy offroad tyres in the future. Which tyres in general give the Defender a better passability (negotiability) when offroad - thin (skinny) or wide (fat) ones? Which one do you recommend from your own experience and why? Thank you in advance for your answers.

Good evening to all. I want to upgrade my 110 DEFENDER 300 TDI 1997 MY 65 Amp Alternator with an 100 Amp Alternator from the Discovery 300 TDI. Is YLE10113G appropriate for this? Is it necessary something additional to be done in order to mount it or does it fit to the original manifacturers mounting points of the 300 TDI engine as my original alternator? Except for the 2 Defender headlights H4 - 60/55W I have also 4 additional headlights H3 - 55W. Will I be able with this 100 Amp alternator to use simultaneously (on the same time) all 6 headlights together with taillights, sidelights, heater fan, radiator cooler fan, rear end door heated glass and will the alternator be able to supply enough current to all of them for a long time while driving? Which brand YLE10113G is better in terms of quality, durability and reliability - HELLA or DENSO ? What is your experience with both brands? Every answer is welcomed.

Hi everyone, I have the following question about Power Assisted Steering System on my DEFENDER 110 300 TDI: If I am out in the wild offroading far away from any village or city and if it happens that either the power steering pump is damaged or the power steering pipes (hoses) are damaged or start leaking will I be able to turn the wheel and drive my Landy until I reach the nearest settlement where I could have help? Have anyone from you ever been in this or a similar situation and what is your experience? Every response is appreciated because it will help me to be ready if this occurs to me. Thank you

Yes, I have blanked my EGR. Thanks a lot for your comprehensive information.

Hi everyone, I own a Defender 110 Hardtop 300 TDI 1997 MY. I would appreciate it a lot if you can urgently help me in finding the part number of the bend pipe (rubber hose) that is marked with red arrows in the photos posted below (Photo 1, 2 and 3) so that I could replace it as soon as possible. The pipe is short, factory bent and it’s two ends have different diameters. It is attached to the 300 TDI Brake Vacuum Pump. As you can see the one end is completely torn (the crack surrounded by a red line in Photo 3) and the white carcass is showing and I urgently need to replace it. Since 2016 a searched through all editions of the official Land Rover Defender parts catalogues (online and on paper), also I asked my country official Land Rover dealerships , but the result was nothing. Thank you in advance for the help.