Mike Jenkins

I had loads of intermittent issues with my v8. Megajolt sorted it all out for me! It never failed to start as soon as you turned the key and ran faultlessly. It's really not that difficult as a DIY job, especially if you buy the controller ready assembled. I put the controller in the cab behind the mud console I fitted to hold the radio. The edis controller fits nicely where the coil is on yours, and I put the coil packs on top of the engine. You need to take the pulley off the front, to fit a trigger wheel. The link further back in the thread is what you want. Took time, but well worth it! Some pics: http://www.relcraft23.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2920.jpg http://www.relcraft23.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2908.jpg

I've recently acquired a 110 Utility as a company truck, so I'm thinking about what to do with my old 90. It's a pretty original factory v8 station wagon, but I quite fancy something a bit more open top for when the weather eventually improves. So the question is, if I take the roof off the 90, and replace with a hood, am I risking devaluing it because it won't be so original? Or does it make no difference?- it's not concourse, but apart from a small whole in the bulkhead A pillar, it's pretty much rust free. Cheers for the advice! Mike

I put the Cooper AT3 tyres on my 90. Wear and grip seems good and a chunk cheaper than BFG. A lot quieter than the goodyear MTR's on my 110. I suspect that in really sticky mud, the Goodyears would be better, but for 80% on road, consider an AT tyre instead of a mud tyre like STT. Of course the mud tyres look much cooler..... Mike

Thanks for the info. Not that bad compared to some of the others! I've already done all the bushes, the A-frame joint, and the prop UJ's, so I'm pretty sure that they're ok. What's the norm for diff backlash? Could certainly be that, although I would have said that my clonk was under the seat box... Cheers Mike

Hi All, I've been investigating the backlash in my lt85/lt230 combo. I can see that the splines are worn - especially on the transfer box end. The main gearbox end is worn too, but maybe not quite as badly. (pictures if you click the links). Having no idea how bad is bad, and there's a good worrying clonk on gear change... Can I get away with just a new transfer box input gear (which is cheapish and easy), or is it a waste of time and I should save up to get the main gearbox done too? Cheers for any advice/comments! Mike

My 1987 90 has the split case one. Is it any worse than the solid case?

Have a look at my thread here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59411&hl= I was asking about propshafts and flanges for my axle swap, and there's a couple of pictures on there that may help, and the part number from Ashcrofts you need.

Ashcroft Transmissions will sell you a drive flange that will allow you to use your old 90 24 spline half shafts with a disc based donor axle. Not sure if there's a 10 spline version. I did this for my rear disc conversion (my 90 had 24 spline shafts from the factory).

24 sounds great! I get about 17....

Makes sense now. Best I order a TVB100610! Cheers, Mike.

Thanks Western. I looked in Microcat to get the FRC6243 part number. It has an FRC8386 on it currently. What's the gospel for part numbers? It's a 1987 car, although the A in the vin seems to indicate 1984 on most vin decode sites. So confusing..... Cheers for your advice Mike

I'm not sure what rilsan is, but the seal over the sliding joint is split and there's plenty of dirt in there. I thought that you can only replace the UJ's and not the centre joint. Are there any definitive lengths I can look up? It's a factory v8 with split case lt85 and lt230

Thanks Western. The diameter is the same as the rear one I think. http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8386-front-propshaft.html This makes it look like the one I have is for later V8s. My vin is AA299xxx, and the page says post CA254407. It seemed to fit ok, and has been superseded by TVB100610. Not sure which to get.... Mike

I spent a happy hour changing the diff pinion seal on the front axle on my 1987 90 v8 today. Thanks to Les for a simple how to in the technical archive. The front prop is past its best, so I had a look at the part number on it... The part on it is FRC8386, which shows as a front prop for a RRC and defender post 1995, Presume it's been swapped in the past by a previous owner. My parts book says FRC6243 which I can get a Hardy Spicer replacement, but it's twice as much as the RRC part. Perhaps that's why the previous owner put the 8386 one on? Anybody know what the difference is or if it matters? Cheers Mike

The EDIS is a sealed unit and waterproof I think. I bolted mine to the plate in the engine bay that the coil used to be on. It doesn't seem to get over warm. Is your enclosure metal? If so bolt to the inside and it will be a fine heatsink. The delicate stuff (I only have megajolt, not squirt), I put inside the cab. Mike