SlickV8

just a quick thought...i guess i don't NEED to introduce a PCV? I don't think these engines had them in standard form? On the theory that vacuum is drawing too much oil/vapour up could I either 'T' the n/s rocker cover pipe into the o/s one so the both vent into the underside of the air filter or maybe just plumb the n/s into an oil catch tank, so there'd be no vacuum? I've also fitted a remote brake servo which i currently have piped to the top of the inlet manifold [see the second picture] - it works fine tbh but should i really blank off the manifold port and route it to the port on the back of the carb? I assume there'd be little difference but would that be the 'proper' way to do it?

apologies for delayed response, the day jobs gone a bit mad this month thats really helpful, thank you. I'd taken the flame traps off while messing around last time. I'll speak to the carb supplier about the PCV port, it arrived blanked off but I'm sure theres a solution I'm hoping to get back on it this weekend so I'll let you know results

Couple of pics attached. It’s the edelbrock/ Weber 500 and manifold.

thanks all. i dont quite understand what you mean buy drawing [air?] from under the butterflies? is that meaning the n/s pipe i mentioned going to the back of the carb? If so then i what form of restrictor should i use? Sorry if i'm being thick

Hi all, Ive a series 2 with a RR classic 3.5 V8. I've fitted a high torque cam and new edlebrock carb / manifold. i cant say that oil consumption was anything i worried about prior to the conversion but It seems to be using around 1 ltr oil per tank of petrol now and I'm thinking i maybe should add a pcv valve? The carb came with the pcv port blanked off but I assume its simple enough job to fit one. I'm planning on a rebuild at some point but I'd like to try and establish if the oil consumption is down to the plumbing or good old fashioned wear, although it didn't seem to burn it so quick before the carb conversion. Currently I've a pipe from the o/s rocker cover, through a flame trap and into the air filter port and the n/s rocker is the same but from memory into a port on the back of the carb. Could this cause too much vacuum, too little? do you think a pcv valve would help? The engine does blow a puff of smoke on throttle after coasting but it doesnt have valve guide seals so i expect that. It also seems to blow a little on reasonable heavy throttle but certainly never plumes of smoke thanks in advance

its from carbuildersolutions = theres only 1 complete kit to choose but you can mix n match spindles etc I went for solid blades so i can trim them to fit the windscreen It looks great but as i say i cant get it wired up yet so my only concern is the arc in the drive cable; i ordered 2 lengths of the drive cover pipe and used a short piece of it at each end to push into a rubber hose for connection to the motor and first spindle. The rubber hose is to get the arc,,,added a good smear of grease so the cable should run smoothly through it.

quick update; ive installed an aftermarket 2 speed wiper system - still waiting on autospark to wire up a new loom so I'll report back with more details once i know if they work or not

Hi All, i'm building my S2 back up [going sooo slow as STILL waiting for autospark to install new loom - 3 months and counting Grrrr] Anyway, I 've been playing with the cooling and although it starts & seems to run OK I cant help but feel the cooling isnt plumbed quite right: as the fan & new heater arnt yet wired i cant do too much but... Its a RR Classic 3.5 V8 / edelbrock manifold, 4 barrel weber with a wing mounted expansion tank. This has a small [main?] outlet top left and a small one in the neck under the filler cap [overflow?] and i've converted to waterless coolant. The radiator is quite large and has two small inlets [outlets?] top right and the standard larger top and bottom hoses, the only filler for the radiator is a screw in square top bolt top right. Currently I have it plumbed as; 1. Top & Bottom larger hoses - self explanatory. 2. expansion tank filler neck to radiator top right small 3. expansion tank main outlet small to radiator top/lower right small 4. waterpump - [viewed from the front] short 'S' hose, righthand inlet into front inlet of manifold and larger hose, W/Pump left outlet into heater then heater-out into the back of the inlet manifold Am i right in thinking i should have a vacuum connection from the expansion tank [top left outlet] from the front bottom of the carburettor? - in the pic i mean the right hand one that currently has a short blanked off hose on it, marked by a red circle; dont laugh but i'm nervous about connecting a waterpipe to a carburettor vacuum If so, I'm left with a spare inlet [outlet?] on the the top right of the radiator...so plug that or 'T' into one of the other pipes? Thanks in advance Nick

star man, thanks Steve.

sorted thanks all. i started again; refitted the locks and mounted the doors secured by the lock first then marked where the hinges fell [with the door straight], re drilled and boom - perfect in 10 minutes each side...just need tidy up the bulkhead pillars now thanks for the replies

I've had a load of parts back from powder coating and I'm slightly embarrassed to say I've absolutely no idea what a couple of them are Must be an age thing but i just cant place them at all '61 S11 V8 so it had some modifications but anyone any ideas?

sorry for delay, i.'m not getting reply notifications for some reason... for my sins I cant recall any movement with the old S11 hinges other than the doors were aligned when closed ...with a good heave. The new hinges are again S11 originals but with the mirror holes. I'm not sure if they've been remanufactured but they have new[?] door hinge pins. I've tightened them as much as they'll go but there's still movement through them; I'llll order a new kit and see if that makes any difference The pic is for example only and isn't the actual one used Thanks all

so ive refitted my doors after a repaint and i'm going slightly nuts trying to get them aligned. Ive fitted anti burst locks and the doors seem to line up when closed but as they come off the latch [and before they go onto the latch when closing] they are both around 15-20mm low - is this normal or am i missing something? Ive tightened both hinge bolts and to be fair there is movement in the hinge so maybe it is normal? thanks

Hi, so my S11 build is coming along great but I'm stuck with the windscreen wipers. It came with what i presume was an original wiper box on the drivers side that doesnt work but regardless I'd like to fit a modern 2 speed system that'll actually clear the screen and park neatly...anyone got any suggestions as to what system works? Ive looked at a third party set from a car builder products site that looks great apart from it would mean a motor being fixed to the bottom [or top] of the passenger side windscreen. Anyone tried that? Thanks

i was going to go the ashfords route - R380 short with their adaptor kit and the standard transfer box. Not gone much further than pricing it up at the moment as its supposed to be the plan for winter nights. My understanding is that it basically moves the gearlever back 120mm from memory and thered some cutting / welding of the cross member support. I'll start another thread when the time comes

haha, ok so definitely a cat among the pigeons subject all replies/suggestions are equally appreciated I'm hoping to get a couple of kid/work afternoons free this week so I'll take some pics.I know its potentially sacrilege here but my priority isnt off road for this build [although IF i ever sold it I'd like the next owner to be able to easily be able to convert back if the blocks are an issue]. Ive wanted a V8 Series for as long as I can remember and I'm pretty well stretched for spare time between home/kids and business so realistically this ones only going to be used for high days and odd road trips.

Thanks again all. Ive run it without the front prop some miles now and typically a few other issues have popped up so Ive now stripped out a load of ancilleries and sent them off for repair / recon / powdercoat etc. I'm going to bite the bullet while I'm stripping it down and make a start on fitting an R380 gbox so I'll re visit the ride height once Ive everything in place to measure as I think i'll be needing a new rear prop making up for the R380 anyway. I received some custom 2" blocks and extended U bolts today so I'll have a go with them and take some pics as i get chance....looks like the winter project starts early this year

Hi All, I'm giving my engine a bit of TLC as the radiator is goosed & right hand manifold is blowing, amongst other things Having removed the RH maifold theres a stud missing and another thats snapped. Ideally i'd like stainless manifolds but i cant seem to track down any options. My S2 is a doer-upper & as Ive not put it together originally, I'm trying to second guess whats been done - it looks like the left and right manifolds are different. See pics below - right hand removed and a pic from the top down of the left hand one. Best i can make out the part number on the RHS manifold is EPC2995 and I think i can use a discovery V8 manifold ref ERR2533 from brit part?? Ive not removed LHS yet but i can see that the exit isnt central (as RHS) and exits at the rear end of the manifold. Am i right in thinking the 2 manifolds should ideally be the same [ish] design / length? Should i be trying to find whatever part number matches the RHS and then worrying about trying to link it to the exhuast or is the performance difference negligible in which case any offers on what the LHS part number maybe? ...and any ideas where the best place to source new manifolds might be? Thanks

Thank you all. I've seen loads of people 'commenting' that their ride height was raised on parabolics but none seems to have tried to lower it back with blocks so I was slightly curious that there maybe a reason i wasnt aware of. So I've spoken to GB, they suggest the springs will settle albeit not a huge amount. I've removed the front prop for now and got a great 50 odd miles in yesterday (love the new ride). I'm having some custom blocks and U-bolts made up which should be with me late next week so I'll update on fitment, height and hopefully a return to 4WD Thanks again for the swift and valuable replies; I'm just getting started on the Series so I'll doubtless be back with more as it develops.

Hi all, i new here and hoping someone can help me out. I've a Series 2 running a 3.5 V8. Ive just fitted new parabolics [GB Springs]. The car now sits around 2" higher but the bigger issue is the front UJ is catching due to the angle of the engine to the driveshaft with the new raised ride height. I'm thinking i could fit 2" lowering blocks to bring it back down and line things up again but i cant find any reference to anyone doing this on a Series. Any one know of a reason it cant be done or who might supply Series specific lowering blocks - ia quick web search just seems to pull up Ford Escort specific blocks... Thanks in advance